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I just got my drill doctor and I was curious about the angle that I should be putting on my bits. should I stick with the standard 118 degree, or should I adjust up or down? I am drilling mainly through thicker steel(3/16 through 3/8)
 

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It dosen't have so much to do with the thickness, but the hardness of the steel. If it's pretty hard, you might want to step up to a 135 degree point. But if it's just mild steel, it will probably just slow you down a bit. Either way is fine, can't hurt.

If you can do split points on your Drill Dr. I'd definently consider doing that to most of the bits.
 

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Which model of the drill doctor did you get? I got the cheapo one. Model number 350 (i think) Only pain $60 for it at Lowe's. But I love that thing. Works great. But I didn't know you could adjust the angle.
 

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JonsYJjeep said:
Which model of the drill doctor did you get? I got the cheapo one. Model number 350 (i think) Only pain $60 for it at Lowe's. But I love that thing. Works great. But I didn't know you could adjust the angle.
I have the xp. I don't think you can adjust it on the 350
 

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my dad's a locksmith and we have had to resharpen hundreds of bit. he got a Darex drill sharpener that has a 'cartridge' that the bit mounts into. then it goes through the only motion that it can, which sharpens it perfectly. it uses a diamond grinding wheel and can do split point and just about everything you'd need to do. I guess you'd have to go to Darex.com or something. I think he paid about 600 for it. it's super nice.
 

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Snowbird13 said:
I just got my drill doctor and I was curious about the angle that I should be putting on my bits. should I stick with the standard 118 degree, or should I adjust up or down? I am drilling mainly through thicker steel(3/16 through 3/8)
I would stick with the std. 118 Deg and do the split point if possible.The split point will center the drill bit better.
 

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You don't need split points if you drill pilot holes like you're supposed to...

Your first step pilot drills could use them... But a split point on anything bigger than about 1/4" is just silly.
 

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Point angles are relative to heat coefficiants in production.
The broader point allows less heat over an effected area because there is lees area in contact.
A sharper point has longer cutting edges which means more area in contact.
Anything between 118*- and 135* is fine for general stuff.
I always grind a 135* angle for garage use. Because holding a hand-drill steady is impossible. The 135* angle could handle more abuse.

If you're drilling large holes with a pilot, buy a single flute chamferring tool. Drill your pilot and then chamfer the crap out the hole, atleast to hold captive the next size drill. If you pilot 1/4" and the next drill is 1/2" the big drill will chatter until it buries the tip, creating a triangular mouth.
Plus the chamferring tool is just good sense to have, nice clean holes, everybody wants them.
 

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CrustyJeep said:
You don't need split points if you drill pilot holes like you're supposed to...

Your first step pilot drills could use them... But a split point on anything bigger than about 1/4" is just silly.
Split points work well depending on type of material being drilled,type of machinery being used.
On a rigid set up like on a vert. mill split points work well even up to 1/2".If you want an accurate hole(size,location)then you have to take other steps such as using a C'drill and or reamer.
In all the machine shops I've worked at,split point drill bits up to 1/2" are the norm.
Now if your drilling holes with a drill motor then stepping the drill sizes is a must and using split points after the pilot hole will not make any diff compared to a std. bit.
 
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