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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Double cardigan rear drive shaft Help

Due to limited funds I purchased a set of used dual case set of drive shafts that the PO carried as trail spares, very minor usage. Each shaft has a double cardigan joint.

Here is the problem.

The rear double cardigan joint made a knocking sound as I first moved the truck.

Inspecting everything, the rear joint looks like its hitting the cross member that is curved upward for the back of the cab, front of the bed.

My truck is not lifted as high as the one that the shafts came off. Is this common ?

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lift has nothing to do with the clearence..........search( not being a search nazi but there are pics:)) & you will find pics. Last time I heated the thing up till cherry red and bashed the clearence into it with a hammer:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What is the double cardigan doing as you drive ?

Searching turned up two threads.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270145&highlight=drive+shaft+clearence

and

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182976&highlight=driveshaft+clearence

just sent this one

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/DrivetrainLift/index.shtml#HorsecollarCrossmember


Additional search for: horse collar (once you know what the cross member is called by many )

Resulted in others

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Reading the articles makes me ask ...

Why use a double ?

What is the joint doing that requires extra room, Flopping aroung or trying to straignten itself out ?

Does the movement require longer splines ?

Can this setup be driven at highway speeds ?
 

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I have been wrestling with this problem for some time. Rear axle wrap makes situation worse - as pinion comes up, CV head goes upward at front of DS and grinds on the horsecollar. Have clearanced horsecollar to about 1.5 inch clearance at rest, still does contacts under hard acceleration or hillclimb.

AFAICT, these are possible solutions:

1) Eliminate (or radically change) the horsecollar
2) ditch the CV head and just use regular u-joint
3) add anti-squat link to rear axle, so suspension droops on acceleration (pinion rotation upward) instead of compressing suspension.

I dont have another shortened DS to try, or I would probably go with 2. 3 sounds like a better overall solution, since it will help with rear suspension articulation on hillclimbs etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
No longer hitting

After reading the threads about a horse collar and not about a double cardigan, I went at a quick solution.

Using trial and error replacing the shaft and doing some measurement it now no longer hits.

This was done using an air hammer and 8 lb mini sledge.

First hitting it with the air hammer, next the sledge and painting the area, then fitting the shaft.

A quick trip down the street a few hundred feet would mark the paint and
the process was then repeated.

I would still like to know what the double cardigan is doing or how its supposed to move around in its anti-aliasing movements.

Searched and could not find an FAQ on driveshaft design and movements related to joint types.
 

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Well, if you search for "Double Cardan" you might have better results, see:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml

What happens with dual cases on a SWB frame and a rear CV (or double cardan) joint is that the head of the CV joint ends up under the horsecollar crossmember. There is usually a little static clearance, but load up the drivetrain and move the t-case around or wrap the rear axle, both of which can lift the CV end of the shaft up and bang, it hits. Fix is to either not run a CV (a single cardan or u-joint) is a smaller joint so gives you more clearance, or notch, raise or remove the horsecollar to make room for the CV to fit.
 
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