[rfrey]

Yep, I backed it up a wall today. I have a few adjustments to make on the brake lines and some other slight modifications.

As I backed it up, I heard a little clicking noise, and didn't know what it was, so I stopped. It was the drive shaft rubbing. What options are out there to combat this? I heard there is a different pan I could get, with a smaller lip? Anyway, I don't think it rubs all that bad, but I would rather it not rub at all.

Here are a couple pics...

This is the angle I was at...

 

[GreenPig]

I'd go with a smaller diameter shaft?

But looking good!

What's wrong with the brakes? What are you running for brakes?

I was going to run my factory '73 master cylinder to the factory Volvo drums... Thoughts anyone? ( I don't want to hear "put disk brakes on it")

 

[smtyblt]

I know this may sound assonine but how about moving your spring mounts a half and inch to the passenger side might even be as easy as redrilling a center hole 1/4 to 1/2 away

 

[jbt]

I'd go with a smaller diameter shaft?

But looking good!

What's wrong with the brakes? What are you running for brakes?

I was going to run my factory '73 master cylinder to the factory Volvo drums... Thoughts anyone? ( I don't want to hear "put disk brakes on it")

I plan to run a -69 master cylinder to volvo drums.

 

[RustyNailJustin]

I would grind a bit off the pan lip, Or like you said buy a pan with a smaller lip. O say just modify the pan you got.

 

[wngrog]

I went through the same thing. Mine cleared fine unless I was going downhill and went off a ledge. I took my 7" grinder and made the top part of my shaft a solid rod

Jess could not endores it, but on a front shaft it sounded to me like I was way overbuilt for my application. By shaving the splines I may have lost 20% of my strength.

 

[Rascal]

kinda cool to have a built in RTI ramp at your house!!!

 

[rfrey]

Wow, that is a lot to think about. I think I will grind on my pan first...then possibly the shaft. Replacing the shaft with a smaller diamiter doesn't seem like a good option for me. Too much money in this one to have it sit in the garage, and if I grind it down like Nolen said...I think this is a better option too.


As far as the built in RTI ramp...yea I think it's cool...I wonder what the wife will say when she sees the pictures????


BRAKE ISSUE....my brake issue was because my power steering pump was bad (I have hydro boost brakes). I relplaced it, and now I stop pretty good. With it in low 4x4 it is kind of tuff, but I do have an Atlas 4.3 back there too. If you are not geared as low you shouldn't have a problem...but I would throw a large booster on there. I am also going to try and build some backing platese that bolt on right behind the wheel mounting surface. You can then bolt a rotor to it. I am also working on the caliper mounting bracket. They are both made, and a guy is running both of them right now. We are just looking for a machine shop to give is a good deal before we have like 20 pairs made. These brackets should be well under $500...possibly closer to $400...then factor in rotors and calipers. You should be able to do front and rear brakes for under $1000 if you find the rotors and calipers.

 

[DaveWFO]

Mine did the same thing on my cruiser, I trimmed the pan a little bit and made a plate and redrilled it to add the strenght where the pan bolts into the tranny. I had a Atlas 4.3 with 700 tranny and long slip just like you did.

I got close to 3/8 of a inch clearance with modifing the pan

Dave

 

[jbt]

Wow, that is a lot to think about. I think I will grind on my pan first...then possibly the shaft. Replacing the shaft with a smaller diamiter doesn't seem like a good option for me. Too much money in this one to have it sit in the garage, and if I grind it down like Nolen said...I think this is a better option too.


As far as the built in RTI ramp...yea I think it's cool...I wonder what the wife will say when she sees the pictures????


BRAKE ISSUE....my brake issue was because my power steering pump was bad (I have hydro boost brakes). I relplaced it, and now I stop pretty good. With it in low 4x4 it is kind of tuff, but I do have an Atlas 4.3 back there too. If you are not geared as low you shouldn't have a problem...but I would throw a large booster on there. I am also going to try and build some backing platese that bolt on right behind the wheel mounting surface. You can then bolt a rotor to it. I am also working on the caliper mounting bracket. They are both made, and a guy is running both of them right now. We are just looking for a machine shop to give is a good deal before we have like 20 pairs made. These brackets should be well under $500...possibly closer to $400...then factor in rotors and calipers. You should be able to do front and rear brakes for under $1000 if you find the rotors and calipers.

Which rotors and calipers will fit? Is it expensive wilwood stuff or cheaper OEM stuff? $400 is allot of money for brackets...

 

[rfrey]

Let's see...$400 for a part that allows you to put disk brakes on....hummm....that is just about the cost to machine them...if you don't like the price, find a machine shop that can make four of them for less than that, or sell your axles and get standard ones if you want to stop.

Don't kill the messenger.

I personally think it's a good deal. You can find the rotors in the junk yard, the brackets for the calipers are for wilwood. If you want to use another caliper...make a bracket...that is the easy part of this whole set-up.

 

[jbt]

I don't wanna blame you for the price, maybe they're very complicated to make, then 400 is a acceptable price. But if you got any drawings or pictures of the brackets, maybe I can check with some machine shops to get a price.
Will 15" wheels fit the new disc brakes?
Do you retain the original Volvo bolt pattern?

 

[2car]

Can you shim the engine/transmission mounts to get clearance?

 

[kling-on]

bigger bump stop to limit travel you got more that your fair share anyway


oh ya the 42"s look like they would have hit the fenders ALOT good going with the 38's looks killer :beer: cheers and good luck

 

[rfrey]

Well, my trany guy told my to grind on the trany a bit. So I did. I also did a little grinding on my driveshaft....It rubs every so slightly...I think I will grind the driveshaft a little more.

Thanks for the help!

Yea, I am real happy with the 38.5's so far...I will let you know more in a couple months!

 

[wngrog]

FYI, I have hammered the shit out of my driveshaft since I ground it smooth and it has held up just fine.

 

[rfrey]

Cool. I didn't take much away, and I can't get my grinder up in there without taking the shaft off...so I am going to wait...and just watch the angles I am taking in the mean time.

 

[High5]

is moveing the eng, trans, t-case over more towards the drivers side an option?

 

[rfrey]

When I built the rig, I did center the motor, but I pushed the transfercase as far to the passengers side as possible. I don't think moving everything would be worth the effort. I think I have less than 1/8th of an inch to worry about. I can touch the trany a little more, and the drive shaft. I should be "straight" after that! You guys are great on the ideas! Very cool.

 

[misfitcj]

and the trac bar pic's are where ???:flipoff2: ...........looking sweet ryan, I am going to try to get jason over to check it out this week.............ltr