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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to lengthen my front DS about 3" by tomorrow

original tube is 1.75 X .120 factory front YJ shaft

I don't have any DOM around
Will HREW work or should I just use 1.5 sch 40 poop pipe?

I already have the yokes cut out & ready to TIG it up to something :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Jess, you get to build the good ones for it once I get the axle swap done this winter but until then I need something to wheel on. :D

I have a lathe to fit it up on w/ a steady rest & tailstock
I am just wondering which will work the best .120 wall HREW or .140 wall sch 40, or .200 wall sch 80 (plumbing store is next door)

Local shop wants $150 to lengthen or $275 for a new one :eek: :eek:

1310 on both ends, 44" running length, no CV, doesnot need to have long slip
there is only about 1.25" of movement through out
 

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It's fine!

Dude, Do you think all the different driveshaft shops use only DOM??? Hell no.
That .120 wall HREW will not only work, it's what most use. Especially once you chuck it up in the lathe and true it up.
Get to work! :beer: :smokin:
 

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I just had the rear shaft in my Dakota stretched out the other day, they used a HREW 3.5" x.085. I asked about the lack of wall thickness and they garunteed it to be strong enough to hold up to 500hp. and I'd imagine that either the .120 or the .085 will bend if dropped on a rock in the middle of the shaft.
 

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I would use the 1.5" schedule 40. It's .140" or so wall thickness and is cheap.

If you're just hacking it together for now, that'll work great for ya.

Jesse can and will hook you up right when you're ready though. :)
 

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I don't think driveshaft material is normal HREW. The machine shop next door to my shop got some tubing for a drive shaft and it came from Spicer and said drive shaft tubing on the package. It doesn't look like normal HREW. It even seems to weigh more. The machinist said that drive shaft tubing was made of different metal and held to higher tolerance than normal HREW. The machinist also said that it will hold up better to the rotational forces better than DOM. I don't know if this is all true, but it is what I was told today. As for what you need. Just use what you got and wheel it.
 

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I've never seen a shaft I built break. I'm no driveshaft shop, but I've built several for myself, farm applications, and buddies. I've used DOM, Sch 40, and HREW. My front shaft is DOM, the rear is HREW, and I have several farm implements running Sch 40 shafts with a 200hp John Deere in front of them. I use what fits or can be made to fit the yokes I have. Take the shaft apart, chck it up and cut the tube off. Then machine the welds and tube back to the flat shoulder of the yoke and give it a slight bevel. Do that for both ends and then put your correct tube length in. The tricky part for me was turning it at just the right speed while I welded it, because I refuse to weld them in the lathe. My dad though has gotten pretty good at turning them. A continuous weld is much better but not always necessary. My only problem is I don't have the equipment to balance them, but mine come out straight.

John
 
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