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Discussion Starter #1
I've been thinking about doing a drivetrain lift on my '85 standard cab.

So for all the trucks I've seem w/ lifted drivetrains had body lifts, I don't plan on doing a body lift. I was just going to cut out the trany hump in the floor and build a new one.

Any idea how much lift is possible before I hit the hood w/ the motor? or run in to other fitment problems? Is this even worth the trouble?

I figure if I go to high I'm either going to hit the hood, or the HVAC unit in the cab.

How much lift is needed to get the bottom of the t-case flush w/ the frame? 3"-4"?

What else might need modification? I'm thinking modification will be needed on:

motor mounts, t-case crossmember, floorboards/firewall for clearance, radiator shroud, longer cooland hoses on the radiator, and the horse collar crossmember.

It kinda looks like somthing like this was done on allpro's ARCA rig(their site says it has a 4" lift)

Thanks.

BTW: the truck will be running a 22re.
 

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why not do the body lift? It is way easier.
I lifted the motor,trans, exhaust, and most importantly, the fuel tank 3in. I now have a
kong's skid plate that is almost flush with the frame. Ypu will definately have to modify the "horse collar" crossmember.
Especially if you run dual cases.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'd rather not do a body lift, I wan't to keep the center of gravity as low as possible and I don't need the extra clearance.

I've never liked body lifts. Seems like I'd have to modify all the same stuff w/ a body lift, but I'd also have to modify all the lines(brake, clutch etc.) between the body and frame.

It seems to me that the major difference would be cutting out the floor. which I plan to do anyway for easy access when working on the drivetrain. I thought I'd try to build a cool removeable tranny hump/center consol that I can remove for easy access wrenching.

maybe a small (1"-2") body lift would make things a bit easyier. but I'd still like to lift the drivetrain 3-4".

Lifting the gas tank is not an issue as I plan to mount it (or a fuel cell) in the bed.

what method did you use to lift the motor?
 

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Originally posted by bmaresh:
<STRONG>
what method did you use to lift the motor?</STRONG>
When we did the sas, alot of the stock mount got cut away, so we just removed it alltogether and used 2"x2" box tubing to
build a 3" higher mount off the top of the frame rail. I Would look into lifting the Radiator instead of modifying the shroud and rad. hoses. You could build some kind of cowl induction looking hood for clearance. that woul look pretty cool if done right.
 

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I know you can go at least 1.5" with the trans and not have any issues w/ hitting the body. my buddy put in a BudBuilt x-member on his 86 4Runner, before we put in the B/L and didn't have any problems. the only thing we had to do was take the bottom lip off of the fan shrowd ( sp <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> ). the other option is running an electric fan. black magic makes a bolt in that takes around 2 hours w/ wiring to put in.
 

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Originally posted by Black_Panther:
<STRONG> the other option is running an electric fan. black magic makes a bolt in that takes around 2 hours w/ wiring to put in.</STRONG>
Electric fans DON'T WORK for desert wheelin,
period.. We tried big fans,2 fans, custom shrouds,ect. ect. ect. Keep the stock fan clutch setup at all costs....
 

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A drivetrain lift will raise your center of gravity a bit, just in case you are really concerned about your CG. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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I was gonna say the same thing. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
Putting the gas tank up in the bed instead of underneath will do it too. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Higher is higher, not matter what you raise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah, I figure raising the drivetrain, and gas tank will effect CG a bit, but I figured a body lift, and the drivetrain lift would add a lot!

Do you guys think this is even worth the trouble?
 

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Not worth it, buy the time you do all that and put the tank in the bed, your probley going to have the same CG as a body lift and raised drive train and tank(tank still under the bed)....

Unless... you just get rid of the front clip and bed and make a jungle gym of tubing to protect everything...

IMO it's best to just follow the cook book and try not to invent any new dishes <IMG SRC="smilies/clown.gif" border="0"> untill you've become a master cheif and not afraid to eat what you cook.....
 

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got no body lift on my 85

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/flex13.jpg">

I run 36 x 12.50 TSL swampers
 

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Originally posted by Kyron:
<STRONG>

IMO it's best to just follow the cook book and try not to invent any new dishes <IMG SRC="smilies/clown.gif" border="0"> untill you've become a master cheif and not afraid to eat what you cook.....</STRONG>
LOL that was the funniest thing I heard all morning...

To add to the point, I would go BL and at the same time raise the drive system, it may be quicker then fabbing a buncha body pieces, and getting a simular result... JM02
 

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AllPro did one a while back I think. Maybe Geiger has some pics someplace.

It was alot of work rebuilding the interior and such. It was alot like the interior of my race car , tight.

Robert VanLane
 
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