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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I need the advice of the board... (been on here for a while but the time grows near...)

I've searched this to death but, I need some advice on my specific rig.... (most don't run body lifts)

I'm gathering parts for my SAS... here are the specs:

89 Ex-Cab 4cyl, 5 spd.
Currently 2in. body lift., 33 BFG Muds, Lockright in rear... etc.

I'm going with rears up front and chevies in back.
Once I get rid of the 2pc. rear d-shaft I'll install my 2 in. drivetrain lift and dual cases.

I plan on running 37 MTR's or maybe some 38x12.50 swampers...

My questions are...

How much drop hanger do I want... I built a 1.5" drop hanger (haven't put it on yet) but don't know if that will be too much w/the 2-3" BL... (the reason I say 2-3" BL is, I don't know if I'll have to go another 1" of BL for short throw shifters on the dual cases)

What are the measurements that I need to drill my shackle mounts throught the frame? I need both the distance from the front of the frame (I think All-Pro says 45") and I need the dist up from the bottom of the frame. Any tips/tricks to keeping everything straight???

I really don't want to trim fenders... I may go w/glass front fenders.

TIA for the help...
Vince
 

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FYI: I ran no body lift, 3.5" of hanger and shackle drop, about 1.5" of lift from the springs (axle 2" forward), and cleared 35x16 boggers no problem.

I was just helping TR set up his 4Runner this weekend. I think he has 3.5" hanger drop, uses stock solid axle shackle location with 5" long shackles, hanger 1" forward of stock), stock rears with dual add-a-leaves in each, no body lift, and his clears well worn 36" TSL's like they are 33's.

I am about to set up this truck with about 1.5" hanger drop, 3" BL, and 4" of spring lift to clear 42's (axle 3" forward like TR's above).

The distance you drill the shackle hanger depends on too many variables to give you a cookie-cutter answer. spring length, shackle length, spring arch when loaded, etc. all come into play.

For a starting point, assuming your setup will be able to compress the front springs FLAT, take the FLAT length of the springs, subtract the length of the shackle you intend to use, and that is your starting point. This is another time when the shackle below the frame is nice - you can tack it in place, load the suspension, see how it looks, and move it if necessary. With the tube through the frame - you get one shot and are stuck with it.
 

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I used the drop hanger off of the board someone posted, Search and you can find it. I used the 2" drop one. Stock toys with 2 rancho add a leafs per pack. 6.5" long shackle through frame.
Has a nice 45 angle. rides good not to soft. I have a 2" body lift as well. Plenty of room for 38's. 2 wheel drive chevies 1" block and 11 1/2" shackle.
Shackle is too long in the back. I would rearch the springs prior to putting them on. Just need the backs arched up to get rid of the block and shorter shackle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanx for the posts!

Wondering if you guys have some pics???

DRM, w/89 rears up front... would the All-Pro measurement of 45" get me in the ball park?

In your opinion then, would my 1.5" drop hanger will make me too high w/a 2-3" BL???

Did either of you have to do any fender trimming?

I realize that I will be stuck with the, 'through the frame mount' and that's what makes me nervous. This truck is my DD, so I really want to get it right. The reason I'm asking these questions, is so I can tack the tubes and hanger in place before I cut off the IFS.

JamisonWorkshop... are you talking about this hanger?
 

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invincibletoy said:
How much drop hanger do I want... I built a 2" drop hanger (haven't put it on yet) but don't know if that will be too much w/the 2-3" BL... (the reason I say 2-3" BL is, I don't know if I'll have to go another 1" of BL for short throw shifters on the dual cases)
Do WHAT now? Choose your shifter setup to fit the rig, not the other way around. If nothing else, modifying shifter is shure as shit easier.

What are the measurements that I need to drill my shackle mounts throught the frame? I need both the distance from the front of the frame (I think All-Pro says 45") and I need the dist up from the bottom of the frame. Any tips/tricks to keeping everything straight???
I didn't use a jig. Give Mark Mason at Kongs4x4 (602-944-2411) a call - or dropping him an email might be better. He sent me a photo with the dimensions from the front of the body mount to center-of-hole, and the distance from the bottom of the frame to the center-of-hole.

Here's a shot of where mine ended up:
Cutting outer hole:


Torching the gusset out of the inside of the frame. This makes things MUUUUCH easier with the hole saw...


The shackle all hung up in place:


Okay... this is the best way we could figure out to make nice square holes:
  1. Measure the required distance from the front of the mount, and from the bottom of the frame.
  2. Center punch this location.
  3. Now you need something like one of these:
  4. Hold it horizontally against the inside of the seam at the bottom of the rocker panel, and put the tip of the1/4" drill bit into the divot the center punch created.
  5. Hold the square tight against the body of the drill, and the inside edge of the rocker panel... so that you know the drill is perpindicular to the body & frame. Mark the rocker panel on the outside with a sharpie directly above the center line of the drill.
  6. You now have a reference point while running the drill: Keep the body of the drill centered below that mark, and you'll know the bit is going in straight.
  7. Have someone watch from the side as you drill, to keep you from angling the drill up or down, and you should be set.Drill a 1/4" pilot hole all the way through the frame if your drill bit is long enough, or just through the outside and the gusset in the frame, if it's not.
  8. Here's THE SECRET: DO NOT USE THE 1/4" DRILL BIT YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO IN THE HOLE SAW. I bent four of them. Go get a piece of 1/4" steel rod from Home Depot, and use that. I had some lying around. The hole is already there, right? All the drill bits did was bind their "teeth" against the little gusset inside the frame and twist, beding the bits, and eventually, the saw. Once we figured out that a piece of smooth rod would prevent this, it was smooth sailing on the other side.
  9. Secret #2: Don't worry if your hole isn't straight. By the time we got through both sides, the hole was about 1/4" bigger than the tube that goes inside it. We simply got the tube as square as we could and **TACKED** it in place. Do NOT fully weld it. Once you put the rest of the suspension on, simply drop the rig onto it's tires to see if the shackles are sitting square side-to-side and front-to-rear. It's really easy to see a small error here. Now just jack the rig up, move the frame sleeves as nessecary, and test again. Once they're good, THEN you can weld everything all the way in. :)

Did I forget anything? :flipoff2:

Oh, writeup on my SAS:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/sas/index.html
 

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I forget where you said you were at in WV. but you are more than welcome tostopout my way and check it out. Pretty much the same thing you trying to do.

That is the hanger I used. only 2" drop.

On hole placement. I just eyeballed it right about there. Mine is actually a little low. Just get it right in there somewhere. I went threw 2 hole saws and only one 1/4" bit. The webbing inside will tear the shit out of the hole saw if you dont keep the speed up and keep it going on it till you are threw. I drove around with holes in the frame for a bit, didnt want to take cause You want to move them around anyway. Use a deburring tool to make any adjustments.
 

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If you are planning to use 89 TRUCK rear springs, the WHOLE ballgame changes!

89+ rear truck springs are LONGER than the ones most of the rest of us have used up front (Thought there are several who have done what you are planning - Whizzy is one I believe, maybe Bigbird?)

Anyway, those rear springs are more like 51" long, and they offer a different center pin location that the 88 and older rear springs.

My best guess is that with the longer springs, you will NOT be able to use the through-the-frame shackle method, as the additional 3" of spring will put you right in the body mount.

You could move the front spring eye/hanger forward 1.5" or so, getting you a total of about 2.5" forward of stock. That would move the rear eye up 1.5", and you *might* be able to use the through-the-frame shackle mount with a 6-7" long shackle...
 

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DRM said:
If you are planning to use 89 TRUCK rear springs, the WHOLE ballgame changes!

89+ rear truck springs are LONGER than the ones most of the rest of us have used up front (Thought there are several who have done what you are planning - Whizzy is one I believe, maybe Bigbird?)

Anyway, those rear springs are more like 51" long, and they offer a different center pin location that the 88 and older rear springs.

My best guess is that with the longer springs, you will NOT be able to use the through-the-frame shackle method, as the additional 3" of spring will put you right in the body mount.

You could move the front spring eye/hanger forward 1.5" or so, getting you a total of about 2.5" forward of stock. That would move the rear eye up 1.5", and you *might* be able to use the through-the-frame shackle mount with a 6-7" long shackle...
whizzy and bigbird both run the longer rear springs up front.I am also sure the are using the stock shackle hole in the frame,their front hangar is just a little more out there then most
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanx TNToy, I've read your write-up many times and I've saved almost every pic (anal huh).

I think I'll stick with the 2" BL and 2" Drivetrain lift. If a short throw shifter requires more room I'll create the room it needs...

That being said... any suggestions on what size drop hanger (using 89 toy rears w/AAL's) will put me at a decent height for 37's or 38's???
 

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Well the one that I made has 2.25" of drop and the bolt is 1" forward from stock location. This set-up has worked great for me. You can read the little review that I did here: http://cascadecrawlers.com/toyota/drop/index.shtml

Oh yea, this is an '85 truck with 1/2" of body lift, for your edification. I keep forgetting things, I now am running All-pro long travel 4" lift springs in the front and these springs combined with the dropped shackle hanger work out great.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
DRM said:
If you are planning to use 89 TRUCK rear springs, the WHOLE ballgame changes!

89+ rear truck springs are LONGER than the ones most of the rest of us have used up front (Thought there are several who have done what you are planning - Whizzy is one I believe, maybe Bigbird?)

Anyway, those rear springs are more like 51" long, and they offer a different center pin location that the 88 and older rear springs.

My best guess is that with the longer springs, you will NOT be able to use the through-the-frame shackle method, as the additional 3" of spring will put you right in the body mount.

You could move the front spring eye/hanger forward 1.5" or so, getting you a total of about 2.5" forward of stock. That would move the rear eye up 1.5", and you *might* be able to use the through-the-frame shackle mount with a 6-7" long shackle...
Should I just go with 44044's then??? Maybe I'll shoot Whizzy or Bigbird a PM.

Thanx...
 

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I think you will be more than happy with 88- under rear springs.
I think the 44044s would give too much lift with the body lift there and drop hanger.

I am very pleased with my toy pack, and they are the cheapest to replace.
 

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Oh boy. That thing's gonna be just like mine, except I don't have a BL, and I had fun cutting the fenders:D

I have a nice long thread covering everything I can think of right here.

I wouldn't think a 1.5" drop would clear 38's without cutting. And if you plan on using the military wrap 2nd leaf, make sure to give enough room for it under the hangar;)
 

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