Pirate 4x4 banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I am building a combo daily driver trail sammurai. Its the wifes car but I do the rock crawling in it. We take it fishing camping down the interstate to moab and hopefully one day to the rubicon. My question is this.

If I lower the t-case down and tip the front out put down a little bit will the intermediate driveline vibrate? Its getting about 8 inches of lift toy axles 33 inch tires and link suspension front and rear. I am removing the fixed crossmember and replacing it with something different. I think I want to lower the t-case to correct drive shaft angles. Especially the front. This thing will be cruising down the interstate at 60-70 mph at times. So I cant have the intermediate shaft vibrating. I know that people lift them higher than I am with the t-case in the stock location. But this is a daily driver that I expect to take good care of the wife when done.

Thanks in advance for any and all info!:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
I think you're asking for bad vibes. Leave the case where is it and get good driveshafts. If you're really sweating the vibe issue, get an offset rear housing. If you want this thing to be female friendly, you're gonna have to spend some money on it.
Travis..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think you're asking for bad vibes. Leave the case where is it and get good driveshafts. If you're really sweating the vibe issue, get an offset rear housing. If you want this thing to be female friendly, you're gonna have to spend some money on it.
Travis..
I am spending money on it! I am working on an offset housing as I wright this so that part wont be an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,069 Posts
You could drop t-case down, just remember to drop both front and rear of case the same amount. You cant angle front down because this will cause vibration. The degree has to be same on both ends of drive-line.

BIG JOE SSMF
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You could drop t-case down, just remember to drop both front and rear of case the same amount. You cant angle front down because this will cause vibration. The degree has to be same on both ends of drive-line.

BIG JOE SSMF
The degree has to be same on both ends of drive-line.

Which ones do you mean? The t-case is already a tiny bit lower than the trans. The t-case is angled back so the input of the t-case is pointed up at the output of the trans. If I lower it straight down it will give the u-joint at the t-case an off angle it did not have before. If I lower it any more and keep the input pointed toward the trans the front out put will be at such a bad angle it would never work. So does this mean leave it alone? Has anyone tried tipping the front down and the rear up? I plan on running toy cv's front and rear. should I test it with the engine running and in fith high range with the other drive shafts out so I can see if it would vibrate? Thanks for the onfo so far! Keep it coming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
If you are gonna run toy CVs front and rear, don't sweat it. I had them front and rear on mine with the t-case in stock location and all was good. You are gonna have to notch the crossmember to put that CV up front though. With CVs front/rear and an offset housing out back you should be golden.
Travis..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you are gonna run toy CVs front and rear, don't sweat it. I had them front and rear on mine with the t-case in stock location and all was good. You are gonna have to notch the crossmember to put that CV up front though. With CVs front/rear and an offset housing out back you should be golden.
Travis..
I will be totally removing the front crossmember and replacing it with something else. Thats why I thought while I was at it I could lower the case. If I dont lower it it makes it harder to make a new crossmember fit. I can make it work though. So Should I look into a mighty kong t-case mount, make my own, or does someone else make a better replacement that you would recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,276 Posts
I had spider trax arms through bolted with poly bushings on mine with 6:1s and 5.29s on 35s. I never hurt it, but I'm not a madman either. If you are not the guy who has to try the hardest line, just about anything better than stock arms will work. If you are wreckless, anything can be broken.
Travis..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, I will be the first to ask. Why are you lifting it so high for 33" tires?
??????? Because thats how high I thought it needed to go with enough clearance for 33s. Its lifted 5 inches now and it rubs the 31s I have on it when the tires turn or articulate. I want plenty of up travel too. Is this too high? It doesnt and wont have a body lift. 3 more inches is not that much. Besides any one who puts yj leaves in a soa sammy is lifted about 8 inches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,055 Posts
well, I'd suggest putting cv's on the top and bottom of the rear driveshaft. that way, the top and bottom don't have to match their angles with each other, since they'll each have a cv with perfectly matching u-joint angles at each end.
I removed the stock transmission crossmember and made my own to make sure it'd be out of the way of the front driveshaft.(which I haven't built yet)
I think I had used the (rear?) cv from a bronco to use up toward the transfer case, and a front chevy cv for the pinion(bottom) side of the 'shaft.
If you go that route, I still have my custom made male/male adapter ring that'll mate and center the ford cv with the sammy drive flange.
I only have one left I think, but you'd be able to copy it easily enough.
jd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
well, I'd suggest putting cv's on the top and bottom of the rear driveshaft. that way, the top and bottom don't have to match their angles with each other, since they'll each have a cv with perfectly matching u-joint angles at each end.
I removed the stock transmission crossmember and made my own to make sure it'd be out of the way of the front driveshaft.(which I haven't built yet)
I think I had used the (rear?) cv from a bronco to use up toward the transfer case, and a front chevy cv for the pinion(bottom) side of the 'shaft.
If you go that route, I still have my custom made male/male adapter ring that'll mate and center the ford cv with the sammy drive flange.
I only have one left I think, but you'd be able to copy it easily enough.
jd
Thanks for all the info guys! I think I will just go with toy cv's and rockrats adapters for the bolt in factor.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top