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Discussion Starter #1
where can I get three sets?!?!?!

I ended up buying out Jesse at highangle and All Pro "does not sell anything like that"..

Inchworm?
Marlin??

Quick ideas?

I'm gonna give Marlin a call..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OOP'S said:
Call me cheap,
My dealership charges 2.. per bolt and another 2 got the nut..

4x12= $48.00

For 12 bolts..

I just can't see that.
 

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I got a jar full in a light WD40 bath. But you can't have any!:flipoff2:
 

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what size are they? theres gotta be something else you can use that doesnt cost $4/hole!
 

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Why not just use some grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts??

WHen i sheared the stock bolts I put grade 5(all the hardware store had where i was wheeling) bolts at the axle and t-case ends and now that i think about it, the ones at the t-case are still in there.
 

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Lord Orange said:
Get some grade 8 bolts from the hardware store and some locktight. Geeze.
Might wanna try grade 5 and see where that gets ya. Grade 8 could cause damage to the tcase IMO. I'd rather shear a $2 bolt personally. ;)
 

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Bones said:

Might wanna try grade 5 and see where that gets ya. Grade 8 could cause damage to the tcase IMO. I'd rather shear a $2 bolt personally. ;)
I'm sure you can get away with several different combinations, but the factory bolts are grade 8, extra-fine thread, and have that lovely extra long shank.
 

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85TrailToy said:
I'm sure you can get away with several different combinations, but the factory bolts are grade 8, extra-fine thread, and have that lovely extra long shank.
Probably 10.9, but almost the same as SAE Grade 8, flange headed and M10 with the small 14mm head. Seems like all you can find in M10 has a 17mm head, I don't think I could fit them on a few of my flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The long shoulder is important.
with bolts (and yes finding the small head is difficult) you will mash the threads over time and the driveshaft will be able to shift. And eventually shear.
They make them a specific way for a reason..


The stock bolts are at least grade 8 (or metric eqv.)

For temporary fixes I am sure that the standard bolts would work. But I do not want them shearing while I am trying to climb a big rock..
 

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Lord Orange said:
do you want to drop a driveshaft?

Bones, we will compromise.

Go to a hardware store, get 2 grade 8 bolts, 2 grade five bolts.

Don't forget about locktite.
Sounds good to me. Just do it every other one though ;)
 

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i think i have 2 sets laying under a parts truck you can have, but you gotta come get them:flipoff2:
 

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$4 for the nut and bolt?! I will have to quote you a new price!:D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Cable Guy said:
$4 for the nut and bolt?! I will have to quote you a new price!:D
:flipoff2:
 

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I'm on the SAE side on this one. As the frame and crossmember rebuild progresses, I've been replacing all the metric bolts with common SAE nuts and bolts, that is 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" major diameter NC thread pitches (usually 20, 18 and 16 threads per inch respectively).

Eventually, I'd like to be able to take my truck apart with three sockets, 1/2", 9/16" and 3/4" respectively. Drivetrain (GM) is also SAE.

As for both driveshafts, I believe I used grade 8 SAE, 1" long, 3/8" major diameter, NC nuts and bolts. They're just pennies to buy becasue they are so common. Head size is 1/2" which is about 13mm metric. So its about the same size as the stock ds bolt heads which are 12mm.
 
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