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okay I have seen this on yota's and am wondering why they are considererd the devil when we talk about heep's ( really aren't revolvers just dual shakels in disguse ) understand the unloading princeaple of the spring but couldn't that be controled by a limiting strap
could someone enlighten me in basic terms why this is okay for yota's but not heeps.....................ltr
 

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Sorry can't help all that much...but I was worried about using dual shackles on the Chevy leafs in the rear of my 4 runner. A fair amt of guys on the Toy bd say they suck. They were ez to do though and I figured I wasn't out much if they didn't work.

All I know is after I've put them in, (along with a few other mods ;)) my truck has pretty much kicked ass. Most recently on Patzcuros Revenge at Chili Challenge
 

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Do any of you guys running the duals have any problems with the shackles smacking the frame too much? How about excess wheel hop? I am too lazy to do a search, and besides this is the newbie section anyhow.
 

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montezuma said:
Do any of you guys running the duals have any problems with the shackles smacking the frame too much? How about excess wheel hop? I am too lazy to do a search, and besides this is the newbie section anyhow.
No, my rear whacky shackles don't smack the frame. Nor do I have any wheel hop. They work great for me. Keeps those rear wheels on the ground. My rig is sprung under though and I think that makes a big difference. As far as using the newbie forum as an exuse not to search that makes you seem kinda:rainbow:
 

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When you say dual shackle that is having a shackle on both ends of the spring and not a fixed spring hanger. With a dual shackle you will need to run a 3 or 4 link setup to keep the rear in place since the leafs are free to move for and aft.
 

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66CJdean said:
When you say dual shackle that is having a shackle on both ends of the spring and not a fixed spring hanger. With a dual shackle you will need to run a 3 or 4 link setup to keep the rear in place since the leafs are free to move for and aft.
i think he's thinkin more along the lines of 2 shackles at one end of the spring with a joint in the middle so they flex twofold... i COULD be wrong, but he compared it to a revolver... isn't that how they are set up? i think some of the guys in one of my other clubs have a pin that locks through the "upper" shackle in the revolver and through to the frame keeping it STREETABLE. just do buggy springs...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was thinking along the lines of two shackles on the end of a spring usally located on the rear of the heep/yota, I am intersetsed why this is a good set up but revolvers are not and are prone to unloading>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>... thanks .........ltr
 

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We had those on the company truck and we were not so happy. The flexed like none other but when you get to the real steep climbs where there is traction it does the dreaded "wheel hop". In other words it looks good flexing but doesn't look so good when you are on the bottom of the hill becuase your rear end is jumping like an animal.
 

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Here is my set up. I am using Dual Shackles with Mazda rears, yes you can do a lot better but not for the money. My brother ran his for 3 years before I did mine so I know it will work.

If you are hard on the skinny pedal this may not be the best method for you or if you are running V8 power. My brother has beat on his pretty hard, harder than I ever will mine so I know it works.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=12264
 

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Discussion Starter #12
exactly what I was talking about rev. and joker and is there any prefered type of shackle I do realize that it is dictated by width of spring but........................................ltr
 

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I run the dual shackle setup on my toyota. I used to have the wheel hop problem, but have since put a limit strap TIGHT right in the center of the diff. That solved the wheel hop problem and still lets the rearend flex.
 

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i have run a dual shackle set up in the rear for a year or so. works well...but mine is sort of a cross between a buggy leaf and a folding spring hanger. one shackle is horizontal to the frame...so it effectively relocated the hanger back like 6". Most of the time it is held tight to the frame by the weight of the truck.

this is with 56" chevy springs over the axle and a stock chevy rear hasckle mated to a CJ lift shackle

here's about the most it folds down:
 

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Unless you are looking for style points for lots of flex, don't bother. A revolver or "dual" shackle will allow you tons of droop, but what's the point? The tire does not have the weight of the vehicle on it, it is hanging under the truck like its suspended on a rope. You won't get any traction out of it anyway. It seems to me (in action) to be more likely to hang down under a ledge or something and get you stuck. Just buy a locker, let the unweighted side hang in the air, and count on the weighted side to drag you through. Flex doesn't get you over obstacles, traction does. Flex is pointless unless it is promoting traction.

And besides, if you are looking for style points, chicks dig guys with big round ones hanging in the air under their rigs :)

BTW, I run a rig with very little flex. It is a stock wheelbase cherokee with 35's on it. I can pick up a front tire high enough to rig stack my 35" tire onto a 42" but a 44" is too much to keep the other 3 on the ground. I have been stuck MANY times (cause I tend to try to get in over my head :) but it has never been for lack of flex. Lack of rear locker, lack of traction, lack of horsepower to clean out tires, but never lack of flex.

You may also notice the trend that competition guys are running limitting straps to LIMIT down travel, but consumers are still buying revolver shackles for some reason???
 

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My dual shackles with the chevys give me less axle wrap/hop than I had before...and thats with 2" blocks. If it starts hopping and I ease off the skinny a little it settles down and starts digging again. I've been able to climb a couple of hills with this setup that nobody had made up unassisted b4.
 

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run the 63" chevys on stock toy rear mount moved 2" down and 4" back with single shackle. fab shackle length to match front lift-usually ends up in 6-8" range depending on variables like weight. seems to me an easy fab setup. i set front at 11". lots of info/pics of this already posted. get full benifit of flexy/droopy spring without issues of double shackle, blocks, or extra long single shackle. i do beef up the stock toy mounts or you can buy better ones already beefed. this may be too low tech for some, but seems to work fine. my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #20
from what I have read so far I am going to agree with what foley said......................ltr
 
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