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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, the other day I found a 14 bolt from a cab and chassis 1 ton chev. It is a dually axle, I measured it ~62 inches wms.

problem is guy wants 350$ ca (what's that, 15 bucks US <IMG SRC="smilies/scary.gif" border="0"> ), which is a lot of money for something that is going to just keep the weeds down in my side yard for a while (I'm currently running waggy axles), so I didn't buy it right then and there.

What I want to know is:

what gear ratio would it likely have?

would it likely have a detroit already in it?

What have you guys done for brakes? If I used this fawker I'd probably want to disk brake it, cuz them dually brakes are bigger than my whole jeep!

Exactly how far does this thing hang compared to a 60 or a 44?

I took some measurements:

axle centerline to center yoke was 12 inches. This seems to me to be SHORTER than my D44. Am I on drugs?

axle centerline to BOTTOM of diff was about 8 inches. My 44 is about 6. To me this means 2 inches less ground clearance. Does this make sense to those of you who have DONE this?

If I get this axle, it's be to save up until I find a comparable front to go with it. I'm currently running waggy axles with 35 15.5 SXs, if I slung this kinda axle under there I'd need to step up to 38.5 X 14.5. I'm obviously worried about the ground clearance issues, as well as the fact that it is not hi pinion, so it doesn't help my already near the limit rear driveshaft angles (unless it really is shorter than my 44).

Hoping to hear from people who have DONE this - High5 etc etc about their real world experiences getting the axle under there, getting brakes on it, and what kind of different it made for ground clearance. etc

Thanks.

Chad
 

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Sorry but all I can add is bad news to you... I have a fullwidth sitting on the side of my house I am going to put in my scout. The length between where the springs mount and the yoke on the d-shaft is longer. I dont think I will need to lengthen my d/s because of this length when I go soa. I have a d44 in back. It is one seriously HUGE rearend and I expect to never break it w/ a detroit. It probably wont have a detroit unless its a specialty vehicle or the p/o did it. It may have a gov-lok which is a pos posi. there is a ton of info already here on all this stuff including shaving and disk brakes and such search gen 4x4 and chevy.
 

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as of now i still have the drum brakes and i had to swap to hydro boost to actuate those big wheel cylinders! the stock cj master didn't like them. i do plan to swap to disc's when i get time. i have the parts just have to do it. the stock cj master didn't like them. i went from 35 tsl's to 38.5 sx's when i went to the dana60/14bolt for clearance reasons. i shaved both and 60 has about 3/4" more clearance than the 14bolt. i wouldn't worry about the pinion highth. the 14bolts pinion is relativly high compared to other axles. it hasn't been an issue for me. most ratios i've seen are 3.73's, 4.10's, and 4.56's with the 4.10's being more common. you might be lucky and have the 4.56's though. that is what i put in mine but i wish i had 5.13's. oh well.

my final opinion get 38.5's put the 14bolt in, shave it, and forget about it. i only paid $150 for mine and i love it. it's big, bad, and it aint gonna break. i have alittle more clearance under my shaved 14bolt with 38.5's than my buddy does with 36 sx's and d44's.
 

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The axle this guy is talking about is a dually which is different than the single wheel.Did you guys use a dually or single wheel.If dually what changes did you make to the axle.I want to go 14 bolt or 60 in my CJ5 and can get a hold of a couple 14 bolt duallys with 4.56's, but have been told to find a single wheel.Any info is appreciated.Blazin <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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you can run either. you need to check the width from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface of the dually rears to make sure it is the one you want.

cab and chassis dually = 62" wms to wms
standard dually = 67" wms to wms
single rear wheel = 67" wms to wms
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys. I think if I could get it 100$ cheaper I'd jump on it, right now I'm wavering......

Would either of you have a picture of the front yoke? This thing had like 4 bolts holding on some kind of plate on the front yoke. I'm used to the dana axles, which just have the pinion nut.

[ 08-27-2001: Message edited by: ChadLloyd ]
 

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chad, the plate you are talking about actually houses the pinion gear. if you remove the bolts the pinion gear, yoke, pinion housing, etc. will drop out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>chad, the plate you are talking about actually houses the pinion gear. if you remove the bolts the pinion gear, yoke, pinion housing, etc. will drop out.</STRONG>
Cool. Thanks man. Does that make it easier to work on, etc etc?

Also, from what i understand, a detroit for one of these (I only use detroits) is like 1/2 of what it is for any other kind of axle. I was told this is because it goes within the stock carrier. Is this because the stock carrier is so strong that tractech decided they didn't need to improve on it, or ???? Also, does one size fit all? What are the carrier breaks? And I heard that if it has a gov lock I'd have to get anb open carrier for a detroit (increasing the cost)? Lastly, does the detroit install more or less like a lock right if it does not include the carrier?

Sorry for all the questions.

Chad
 

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yes the detroit goes in the stock carrier on the 14bolt and the carrier break is 4.56 and up to 5.13 and 4.10 and lower. i'm not sure why they use the stock carrier for the detroit but don't ever hear of anyone breaking one do you? as for using an open carrier i'm bot sure. i think so but i could be wrong. the pinion housing coming out does make it easier. you can drop the pinion and re shim it without pulling bearings etc. also the 14bolts use adjuster nuts on each side of the carrier instaed of carrier shims. they work like ford 9's, toy, etc. axles. easy to set up.
 

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True about the carrier THAT THING IS BEEF! You cant even see the spiders if you take the cover off. To weld one of these bastards you have to tear way into it. Also true about the gov-lok. I said that already in this thread. I might take pics of my 14 bolt to show the pinion side and post later.. From what I have seen it is a lock-rite! They are different I am sure. Pricing on a detroit for a 14 bolt is about half that of all others too.
 

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Disc brakes are pretty expensive!
A company called TSM inc (the street rod manufacturing co. inc.) makes a conversion using an F250 front brake rotor and a single piston GM caliper. Sells for about $600.00 with non e-brake calipers and a little more for calipers w/e-brakes.
I got a 3/4 ton 4x4 Sub from a guy for doin a few things on his jeep and it had a disc conversion on it with a blown small block, I turned around and sold it to a friend for $700 and he said that I could swap my rear drums for his discs if I did all the work.....NO PROBLEM....now I got rear discs!! <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">
 

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14 bolt w/ TSM mounting plate.
<IMG width=332 height=242 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/a56.jpg">
Buy the rotor, caliper at NAPA to save a bunch. And making the mounting bracket yourself would'nt be very hard.
 

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Actually I was thinking of doin that...The bracket is fairly simple two piece design. I need to remove it and make templates of both sides..Try buying 79-81 Eldorado rear brake calipers without cores to turn in <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> Gotta have an e-brake!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">
I think the bracket kit alone is about $250.00
 
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