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Can anybody tell me if Chevy C&C hubs will fit on and eaton axle? I'm trying to lose 4" of track width.
Dually hubs on an Eaton axle?
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Has anybody tried this or know for sure. I found an Eaton that is supposed to have the 5.13 gears, still need to go check it. But it is the narrow dually job, 63", I need it wide. Will the 14 bolt single wheel hubs fit on it? And if so, how wide would that put it?
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No dice.
Crossreference the wheel bearings, and then dig in the dimensional cross on the wheel bearings, and you'll find out that it's not going to work in that direction.
I have SRW 14b hubs on my Eaton rear, and I had to do some machine work on the spindles to make it work. Better would be to put 14b spindles on the Eaton.
Eaton hubs on a 14b would work, with the right bearings, but the outer wheel bearing necessary to do the other direction interchange, doesn't exist.
Naked, whaddaya got for track width now? 65 (SRW Eaton) or 63 (DRW Eaton)? I've never seen a wheel hub that'll fit and give 61; I've also never seen a 67" Eaton (but it may exist), but if you happen to have a 67, I've got a pair of Eaton wheel hubs that'll get you to 63. I don't think you can get down below 63 without narrowing the housing.
Crossreference the wheel bearings, and then dig in the dimensional cross on the wheel bearings, and you'll find out that it's not going to work in that direction.
I have SRW 14b hubs on my Eaton rear, and I had to do some machine work on the spindles to make it work. Better would be to put 14b spindles on the Eaton.
Eaton hubs on a 14b would work, with the right bearings, but the outer wheel bearing necessary to do the other direction interchange, doesn't exist.
Naked, whaddaya got for track width now? 65 (SRW Eaton) or 63 (DRW Eaton)? I've never seen a wheel hub that'll fit and give 61; I've also never seen a 67" Eaton (but it may exist), but if you happen to have a 67, I've got a pair of Eaton wheel hubs that'll get you to 63. I don't think you can get down below 63 without narrowing the housing.
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My Eaton is 70" wide! I have a 67" front end and used 2" offset wheels in front and 4" in back to even it out, now I want your beadlocks, but don't need to be any wider, and am a little concerned about installing your locks on a reversed wheel.
I have a 67" front end and used 2" offset wheels in front and 4" in back to even it out, now I want your beadlocks, but don't need to be any wider, and am a little concerned about installing your locks on a reversed wheel.
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Holy wide-butt, Batman! I've never seen a 70" Eaton.
Do me a favor... take a tape out to it. Measure from the wheel flange out to the end of the wheel hub (or to the axleshaft outboard face) and tell me what that is, and I'll compare to the Eaton hubs I've got, and to axleshaft lengths and whatnot and see if I can't figure a way to make it narrower. Might need a different housing tho...
C... the spindle needs to be turned down. There's no other way (IMHO) to do it well, aside from replacing the spindles entirely... and if you've got a lathe big enough to chuck an Eaton housing... well... I'm mighty jealous. I tried polishing mine down with hand tools, and it didn't work so good. Maybe some variant of the D60 spindle boring tool could do a better job... I dunno.
My Eaton started life 63" wide, and I made it 67 wide with 14b hubs (standard truck/van hubs) and I've got another couple here that are 65 wide, with normal Eaton hubs.
Do me a favor... take a tape out to it. Measure from the wheel flange out to the end of the wheel hub (or to the axleshaft outboard face) and tell me what that is, and I'll compare to the Eaton hubs I've got, and to axleshaft lengths and whatnot and see if I can't figure a way to make it narrower. Might need a different housing tho...
C... the spindle needs to be turned down. There's no other way (IMHO) to do it well, aside from replacing the spindles entirely... and if you've got a lathe big enough to chuck an Eaton housing... well... I'm mighty jealous. I tried polishing mine down with hand tools, and it didn't work so good. Maybe some variant of the D60 spindle boring tool could do a better job... I dunno.
My Eaton started life 63" wide, and I made it 67 wide with 14b hubs (standard truck/van hubs) and I've got another couple here that are 65 wide, with normal Eaton hubs.
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I'll do it tomorrow when I get home, I am working right now, kinda.
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With the wheel on it's 2 3/4" so, about 3" total.
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Same location on my 63" Eaton hubs is 4"; swapping to them would net you 68" instead of 70, I think.
The 65" Eaton hubs measure about the same as your pic, in that same location.
Sooooo... I think you can swap on the 63" Eaton hubs to get down to 68", but assuming that the bearing spacing is the same between your Eaton and my four, (yes, I've got four of them here to measure), you can't get much narrower than 68" on that housing. I think, in order to get narrower, you'll have to swap to a narrower housing, which is what I've got--they come in 63" and 65" widths (65 is pretty common under 3/4T late-60's Chevys) pretty regularly. The 63 hubs that I've got, are off a bigger truck (cab-n-chassis?) but I think you'll only get down to 68" even with later-model 14b CC hubs, and you'll have to do a whole buncha machine work to get there.
My advice, I guess, would be to get a 65" 2WD Chevy Eaton housing and axleshafts, and swap everything else over from your current one, if you want to lose 4" of track. It'll lose you 5", actually... but 5" is closer to 4" off than the alternate 2" drop from using my 63" hubs.
Have I made this clear-as-mud yet?
The 65" Eaton hubs measure about the same as your pic, in that same location.
Sooooo... I think you can swap on the 63" Eaton hubs to get down to 68", but assuming that the bearing spacing is the same between your Eaton and my four, (yes, I've got four of them here to measure), you can't get much narrower than 68" on that housing. I think, in order to get narrower, you'll have to swap to a narrower housing, which is what I've got--they come in 63" and 65" widths (65 is pretty common under 3/4T late-60's Chevys) pretty regularly. The 63 hubs that I've got, are off a bigger truck (cab-n-chassis?) but I think you'll only get down to 68" even with later-model 14b CC hubs, and you'll have to do a whole buncha machine work to get there.
My advice, I guess, would be to get a 65" 2WD Chevy Eaton housing and axleshafts, and swap everything else over from your current one, if you want to lose 4" of track. It'll lose you 5", actually... but 5" is closer to 4" off than the alternate 2" drop from using my 63" hubs.
Have I made this clear-as-mud yet?
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Just to toss more crap into the mix...
My '97 Chevy (hip dually, not CC dually) is 73" WMS width, on the rear 14b. The stickout that you measured for me, is approximately the same on it, as you measured.
From what I've found measuring different stuff at the junkyard, the hip trucks use the same wheel hubs as the CC trucks, but a different housing between... so you'd be around 68" with the CC 14b hubs too.
My '97 Chevy (hip dually, not CC dually) is 73" WMS width, on the rear 14b. The stickout that you measured for me, is approximately the same on it, as you measured.
From what I've found measuring different stuff at the junkyard, the hip trucks use the same wheel hubs as the CC trucks, but a different housing between... so you'd be around 68" with the CC 14b hubs too.
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OK so I flunked Reading Comprehension... would an Eaton out of a '65-'66??? 2WD GM be the 63". 65". or none of the above?
Very confused I am.
Very confused I am.
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An Eaton out of a '65-66 Chevy 3/4T 2WD *should* be 65" wide.
If it's out of a bigger truck, all bets are off. I've personally seen 63" and 65", and now hearing tales of 70". Having never seen a 70" wide Eaton, I'll trust Naked that he's got one, and I'd assume it's probably the same app, just earlier vintage, that I've got a 73" 14bolt in (just mine's newer enough to have a 14b instead of an Eaton).
Should I be more consistent about putting " marks when I mean inches, and ' marks when I mean year, and making sure I say 14b when I mean 14bolt (and don't just refer to it as a 14) ?
If it's out of a bigger truck, all bets are off. I've personally seen 63" and 65", and now hearing tales of 70". Having never seen a 70" wide Eaton, I'll trust Naked that he's got one, and I'd assume it's probably the same app, just earlier vintage, that I've got a 73" 14bolt in (just mine's newer enough to have a 14b instead of an Eaton).
Should I be more consistent about putting " marks when I mean inches, and ' marks when I mean year, and making sure I say 14b when I mean 14bolt (and don't just refer to it as a 14) ?
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Well this was out of a 3/4 ton so its probably the 65". Of course the WMS-WMS is almost identical to my former 8.8 and that's all I'm really worried about.
Don't worry about where you put you ' or ", my brain starts to shut down on Friday afternoons and nothing but massive beer infusions will help.
BTW anyone got a line on a decent 4.56 or 5.13 R7P for one of these axles?
Don't worry about where you put you ' or ", my brain starts to shut down on Friday afternoons and nothing but massive beer infusions will help.
BTW anyone got a line on a decent 4.56 or 5.13 R7P for one of these axles?
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Unconfirmed: Thirds on the Eaton are gear-ratio-specific and not regearable.OffRoadPoser said:
Thus far unable to disprove: Gears are no longer available new.
Known: Master install kit for the Eaton is around $300. Used gearsets out of Randy's are around $300 a set. Used set-up thirds are around $600 (yikes!) if you can find 'em.
Best bet is to find a rearend with the gear ratio you want, and swap out the whole third. I have yet to actually get my greasy hands on a 5.13 Eaton third--sure would like to. I've got a 4.10, a 4.56, and two more that I haven't bothered to check yet.
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So finding two thirds at Pull-A-Part for $55 each, one with Detroit was a good deal?
So far the only bastard for rebuilding mine is the pinion gear. The carrier bearings are a 382/388A, the pilot bearing was easy enough to find, but the cheapest I've found the piion bearing is $164. A buddy of mine is picking up a 4.56 unit here in a couple of weeks, I'll have to get with him and see if the gears can be swapped between thirds or not.
Thanks for the info!
So far the only bastard for rebuilding mine is the pinion gear. The carrier bearings are a 382/388A, the pilot bearing was easy enough to find, but the cheapest I've found the piion bearing is $164. A buddy of mine is picking up a 4.56 unit here in a couple of weeks, I'll have to get with him and see if the gears can be swapped between thirds or not.
Thanks for the info!
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