Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alrighty so my cousin has had this 92 pathy wd21 v6 5speed for awhile, he has decided he wants to do a sas. His idea and I don't think its that bad is buy one of his buddies rolled xj with a rubi long arm kit and mild built Dana 30/ford 8.8 and swap them into is pathy.

Now everyone and there mom knows a Dana 30 sucks however for the price and tire size he wants to run for now 33s I don't think it would be a bad idea. Has anyone else thought of this? Done this?
I have seen a Jeep long arm under a 2nd gen 4runner and it worked great guy even got a dynatrac 60 and it just bolted right under since he had all the jeep bracketry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Too narrow IMO. Also, the pathy weighs quite a bit more then a cherocar so I would really not put much trust in that light of an axle. Waggy 44/Ford 44's are easy to find cheap and are much more suitable.

Also one thing to think about is gearing. Pathys came geared 4.3 or 4.6 stock, so if those axles are not regeared it would really be a dog to drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The 30 is trussed wj knuckles and 4.88 gear with some kind of locker the rear 8.8 is 4.88 geared and arb.
Not 100% sure on the widths but they from some research i see the pathy h233b rear is about 60wms and the ford xploder rear is 59.5wms and a xj 30 is 60.5 wms from what i am getting andweight is a joke, a xj is full cast block and head plus the fatty bumper that was on it I'd say just the front end alone weighs double what the front of a pathy weighs.

I do agree a full size 44/9 or waggy 44/Isuzu 44 would be better in some ways but if the xj long arm can be made to work I think he would be money ahead buying the xj setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That's my thought too he said he can buy everything for $800. And give his buddy everything he cuts off for scrap weight.

Still unsure if the xj long arm can be made to work with the pathy frame. At least link mounts we know the cross member skid plate transmission mount would be no bueno.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
247 Posts
Not the ideal axle combo but for the price and parts it's a decent deal and I'd give em a shot. Once the bracketry is in it will be easy down the road to swap in something more substantial if necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
Been there. Done that. Dont do it. Bad idea. Waste of $. The dirty 30 wont last a weekend of wheeling, unless you wheel like a bitch.

*edit . I didnt listen when people told me it was a bad idea.. i wish i would have, i would have saved alot of time , money and hassle.

for the same $ you could do a wagoneer D44. keep the rear axle you have. and run 33's knowing you will be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
What exactly broke on the 30?
The real setup we are looking to do is the long arm. And he already has his eyes on a set of jk44s but the guy is asking 4k for them.

Few reasons why we think it will last.
He runs with a lot of jeep guys so spare parts are easy to get
He does a lot of snow wheeling and just dd crap
He knows how to drive for the most part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
355 Posts
shaft. replaced it. then ate the ring gear light wheeling in sedona ,the D30 is weak. Where i live i did alot of snow wheeling and drove the truck as a DD. I did it to my frontier and its a little heavier . i Ran 33x12.50's open front and LSD in the rear.

It seriously lasted all of a few months under my truck untill i went with a waggy 44. and later upgraded to a fullsize 44. Do what ever you want but the d30 isnt worth the time of day.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well he is thinking real hard about buying those jk axles.
I told him we can use the 30 for mockup and probably sell the 30/8.8 for a grand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
For that price I'd go for it simply for the 8.8 with the ARB. Yeah, the D30 sucks ass and the 8.8 isn't an excellent axle, but if the rig is being built as a light wheeler/DD then it should be fine. Of course, if you are wanting a more serious/hardcore wheeler then I'd steer clear of the D30/8.8. Also, like you said, if you setup the long arms properly you can drop a JK44 in later...

I love the "wheel like a bitch" comment too. If you build a rig with less than desirable hardware expecting it to hold up to what you are putting it through then you can not blame it on the hardware. The most important part to building a wheeler is knowing what you want to do with that rig and build it accordingly. Especially if you plan on DD'n the rig!! Pavement queens don't need 60's and chromo's and rock bouncers shouldn't be running D30/D35's. Built it accordingly and stick to what you built it for....

I built my 720 with a D44/12 bolt simply because they were given to me. Not the greatest axles, but the price was right and I knew she was gonna be a trailer queen. Both axles have held up to a lot of abuse with my 36's. Stock transfer case... not so much! I also knew that I'd eventually upgrade to better axles, engine, ect... That was part of my plan... That is why there is a 350/350/203/205/D60/14 bolt sitting in my garage waiting to get shoehorned into my lil truck!

Moral of the story... its a wheeler. Chances are it IS GOING TO BREAK! If you are nice to the D30/8.8 it should hold up fine. If ya beat on it, it will not last long. I run with guys that compete in rock crawls that go out and putt around in stock jeeps. Nothing breaks simply because the drivers know what their equipment can hold up to.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top