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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Any Duramax gurus here? Figured I would ask here before registering in a Dmax forum.

I have 2005 LLY, 275K miles, factory with the exception of a LBZ mouthpiece, cold air intake, and 5 position tune. My problem is it will die on my when idling after pulling my goose neck trailer (5k empty) or any heavier trailer. It has never died when not pulling a trailer, never died while driving (trailer or not). It seems to only do it in the summer months when ambient is above 80F and it idles for 3-5 minutes it will die. I try to start it and it will crank for 2 seconds and throw P0335 crank position sensor code.

When it happened the first time in June of 2018, I crawled under and checked out the wires for the crank positioning sensor, saw no damage and after clearing the code it started up. I eventually replaced the crank sensor, check out the reluctor ring, pulled the harness up, inspected and re-loomed and taped it. I also check out the FICM harness rub that is a known issue, I saw nothing, but looked it over and added rubber hose around the bad spot.

The second time it happen in July 2018. I checked to see if it was still primed and it wasn't. I was able to prime it up and clear the code and its started eventually.

Thinking this was a fuel issue now, I started checking the fuel system out. I switch to a steel filter housing and it died again in August 2018. I rebuilt the filter/prime assembly last fall and had no issues all fall 2018 and spring 2019

Fast forward to July of 2019. Truck dies again, lost prime. Primed it, cleared the code and it started again. I say screw it, and buy a Kennedy lift pump. When installing the lift pump I noticed the line from the tank to hard line is soft in a spot and thought possibly it was collapsing. I install the lift pump, don't see any leaks. Truck seems to run better all around but could of just been a mental thing.

Yesterday August 4th, 2019, truck dies again. Check to see its primed which it is. After sitting in the parking lot with hood open, I clear the code, it starts, I drive home with no issues. I get home, sit and wait a couple minutes it dies. I open hood, clear the code, wait 10 minutes and it starts again. I scratch my head now and feel its related to something electronic (FICM, ECU, CP3) getting heat soaked but I have no way to prove.

Anyone have any insight or ideas? This is getting old. Thanks in advance.
 

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do you have any way to see the signal from the crank position sensor when it dies?

you need live data and the freeze frame data to see what inputs are dropping out for the ecm.
 

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Check wiring to ecm between the engine and the ecm. They like to rub on the power steering lines and on the fender liner down at the ecm. Check around the alternator also, another common rub spot. Take the ecm connectors out and make sure moisture hasnt gotten down into the connectors, i have seen a shotty dsp5 wiring install not seal up at the connector and let water in. Sounds heat related so i doubt its wiring but all of those spots i mentioned above will bite you on a LLY eventaully so they are worth taking care of.

What kind of scanner are you using? I've found in the past the local auto parts store one doesnt retrieve all of the diesel specific ones that my tech2 or efi live will pull.

I would try to get a tech2, efi live, snapon, or other high end scanner on it and see if there are any other codes thrown in it. If nothing else next time it does it pour some water on the FICM when it dies and see if cooling it off gets it to instantly fire back up. I've replaced a few FICMs in the past, jumpstarting something incorrectly takes them out real quick.
 

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perfection in plasma
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before tossing any new parts into the mix i would be pulling logs so next time it happens you have something to go off of vs. tossing parts at it. i see at least 1 truck a year that has some kind of off/on problem like a old GF that wont go away, logging is a great way to pin point issues like this.

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #5
do you have any way to see the signal from the crank position sensor when it dies?

you need live data and the freeze frame data to see what inputs are dropping out for the ecm.
I do not at the moment, but I am seeing that I will be needing too. You would think if I was dropping inputs it would do it at more then just idle time.

Check wiring to ecm between the engine and the ecm. They like to rub on the power steering lines and on the fender liner down at the ecm. Check around the alternator also, another common rub spot. Take the ecm connectors out and make sure moisture hasnt gotten down into the connectors, i have seen a shotty dsp5 wiring install not seal up at the connector and let water in. Sounds heat related so i doubt its wiring but all of those spots i mentioned above will bite you on a LLY eventaully so they are worth taking care of.

What kind of scanner are you using? I've found in the past the local auto parts store one doesnt retrieve all of the diesel specific ones that my tech2 or efi live will pull.

I would try to get a tech2, efi live, snapon, or other high end scanner on it and see if there are any other codes thrown in it. If nothing else next time it does it pour some water on the FICM when it dies and see if cooling it off gets it to instantly fire back up. I've replaced a few FICMs in the past, jumpstarting something incorrectly takes them out real quick.
I have been just using Torque App and my phone. Time to upgrade I guess.

I have checked the wiring by alternator, and all the other common LLY issues. I will check the ECM wiring and the DSP5 install next.

Good call on trying to cool off the FICM the next time it happens. What is the proper way to jump start them? I assumed you could use the ground strap and positive in the red box on the drivers side of engine bay.

before tossing any new parts into the mix i would be pulling logs so next time it happens you have something to go off of vs. tossing parts at it. i see at least 1 truck a year that has some kind of off/on problem like a old GF that wont go away, logging is a great way to pin point issues like this.

good luck

Yeah I agree, I need a upgrade before doing so.
 

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Insurance poor
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What were the last codes you pulled?

I have seen the ficm crap out when hot. They use diesel to “cool” them and we know there ain’t shit on a lly that stays cool. :rolleyes: Check and/or clean the fuel cooler in front of the tank. Maybe its plugged up causing some high heat stuff in the fuel system.

230k on my lly. Owned since new. :smokin:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
What were the last codes you pulled?

I have seen the ficm crap out when hot. They use diesel to “cool” them and we know there ain’t shit on a lly that stays cool. :rolleyes: Check and/or clean the fuel cooler in front of the tank. Maybe its plugged up causing some high heat stuff in the fuel system.

230k on my lly. Owned since new. :smokin:
When the issue happens just the P0335 crank position code when I try to restart.

In the past year I have gotten a P0299 randomly. Typically when I am jockeying a trailer around and shifting from forward to reverse and blipping the gas. I don't have a boost leak and based on my research this is probably a tune issue seeing it happens under a very specific circumstance.

Good call on checking the cooler.

Maybe I should just follow the RoadKill Youtube rules and ditch the hood....lol
 

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Insurance poor
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When the issue happens just the P0335 crank position code when I try to restart.

In the past year I have gotten a P0299 randomly. Typically when I am jockeying a trailer around and shifting from forward to reverse and blipping the gas. I don't have a boost leak and based on my research this is probably a tune issue seeing it happens under a very specific circumstance.

Good call on checking the cooler.

Maybe I should just follow the RoadKill Youtube rules and ditch the hood....lol
I’ll have to look into the P0335. I don’t have much expericance with it.

The P0299 is usually a programming issue. For some damn reason the 05 is very Sensitive with that one. I ended up deleting it on mine with EFI Live. :rolleyes:

Don’t go too redneck with all that. :grinpimp:
 
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