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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Many of you know me from the HydroDynamic Buggy. Around Thanksgiving 2017 we had some family over and we took the buggy out for some night runs around the ranch. One of the last runs was with my three boys, the 4 and 6 year old sitting in the passenger seat and the 2 year old sitting with me. They were yelling to go faster, go faster. It was in that moment, that it was clear that the buggy no longer fit my needs. I wanted a traditional four seat trail rig that could go fast not only for fun but to handle long distance trips. Something fast and agile enough that would leave a cloud of dust behind. Something that I could take the boys out with to a destination and carry all the camping gear and cargo. Something that anyone could work on in the middle of no mans land and gets parts for at a local parts house. I had taken the hydraulic concept as far as I wanted to go. I had proven to myself what it could be and at this point it was only a matter of funding for advanced hydraulic high speed hydraulic parts.
I looked at selling it as is for awhile but being that it was so unique I could have been waiting for a long while and eventually had a mothballed old rig that just sat around. Or like many others rig, sold for the value of the parts alone. I decided to re-purpose all the parts that I could and sell or trade anything that I couldn't reuse. This would be the fastest and most economical way to build the new buggy. This way also transforms the old buggy into the new so personally I don't feel like the old one is wasting away somewhere. The frame went to recycle-ling to pay for new tube and plate. The old steering was sold to pay for new steering. The motor, wiring, fuel system and electrical system is being reused. The coilovers are being reused, the back ones will be on rear trailing arms and the fronts will be rebuilt with longer bodies and shafts. The rod ends and joints are being reused. The seats are being reused. Odds and ends are being reused. Alot of the knowledge and tech and CAD from the first build will roll right into the second build. Dust Buggy was chosen as the name for the intended driving style and the miles of dust I hope to leave behind.
You can also follow along on Instagram
@Dustdynamics
I am uploading pictures directly to Pirate so this build doesn’t get lost.

Dust Buggy Specs:
2010 6.0L
4L80 with Winters shifter with Radesigns switches
Ford NP205 with forged 1410 u-bolt yokes
NP241 planetary NWF Ecobox
F550 Super 60 2005 front with Yukon spool and 1410 yoke and 2000 F250 rear rotors and calipers
Sterling 10.5 2005 rear with air locker and 1410 yoke
Ibex plate sub-frame
Autodesk Inventor 3D one off 1.75" DOM tube chassis .120" upper and .25" lower
40" or 42" on 17” beadlocks
118" wheelbase
PRP high back comp seats front and full size rear bench and room for gear
Warn M12000
Rigid lights
Thermal Transfer MA-32 trans and MA-4 steering cooler
Triton radiator
Spal brushless fans
Dual Optima Yellow tops and dual alternators
40" links with Ballistic forged rod ends & FK rod ends
3" exhaust with Carven mufflers and Magnaflow high flow cats
Fox 2.5" 14" piggybacks front, 10" piggybacks on rear arms
PSC XR series steering
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sterling 10.5 housing was ground down to clearance for the rear truss. Keeping it tight as possible to get every bit of up travel as the rear seats are over the top. Using 3/4" bore by 7/8" shank FK three piece alloy rod ends.
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
While steering arm geometry is pretty basic on a solid axle, I wanted to get the most angle out of it and force. I kept the steering cylinder as close as possible to the axle centerline so the tie rods would have minimal angle on them as well as the side load on the cylinder. The high steer arms are also clocked neutral so there is no Ackerman effect so both tires are turned almost the full 45 degree, yes it will scrub more on pavement but it will also turn sharper off road. The cylinder and tie rods are also up as high as possible so they are out of the way of the rocks and over the diff cover instead of out in front of it. The tie rods are 1.5” 6061 with FK rod ends with 3/4” bore x 7/8” shank three piece Teflon lined alloy body.

You will notice the first set of plate high steer arms were updated to the newer stronger bar design, this was also to clear the 17" wheel so it needed to be more compact. They are bolted on with 2 qty 3/4" bolts and 2 qty 5/8" bolts that go through the knuckle so they will have to all shear before the arm loosens up.


Ran some calcs on the 6061 steering links with high strength three piece FK rod ends
6061T6 Thread pull out strength with the shank threaded all the way in with a standard thin jam nut =
7/8” shank 117,780 lbs
7/8” effective shank 1.39”
3/4” shank = 96,300 lbs
3/4” effective shank 1.33”

Rod end strength =
7/8” shank x 3/4” ball 43,450 lbs
3/4” shank x 3/4” ball 28,000lbs
The 3/4” socket head bolt holding the clevis to the cylinder is rated at 44,800 lbs
The 3/4” bolt holding the rod end to the clevis in double shear is rated at 39,760 lbs x 2 = 79,520 lbs total

What this means is the 7/8” shank rod end is a close match for the rest of the hardware. The 6061 link with 7/8” threads is rated for over twice what it needs to be. That 2x factor will drop if the shank is not threaded in all the way or the threaded were poorly drilled and tapped.
Another thing to factor in is the hammering effect of a loose shank or clevis bolt which will slowly hammer away at the threads in tension until they shear out.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Goat Built sub frame assembly. This thing was super hot when welding it up in the middle of the summer with no wind so the gas wound not blow away. The metal is unforgiving because its so strong. There is no hitting it with a hammer to straighten. Once its welded that's the shape it stays, so clamping and fit up are important.
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The F550 brakes will only clear a 20" wheel and I wanted to be able to run a 17" to keep things standard. I first adapted a set of Willwood Dynalites and through more research found out they would flex and not provide the stopping power and also have a soft pedal due to the flex with the spacers needed for a wide rotor. I then thought about narrowing the rotor to 3/8 width and taking out the caliper spacers. Then I remembered that I didn't want all these one off wear parts, or under powered brakes. I ended up using F250 2000 rear wheel calipers and 13"x1.18" rotors. The rotors needed the flange mounting ID opened up a little. The caliper brackets and adapter did need some machining to sit true and flat and some sanding for clearance and a new bolt pattern to clear the knuckle. The piston size 1.75" Dia = 4.8" area and will be the same in the front and rear now. The Willwood AT6 which is their go to caliper for Ultra4, SCORE, BITD is a 5.4" area, so the Ford rear caliper at 4.8" is 89% of that so pedal and line pressures should be ideal. The wheel clearance is great. A bent wheel or small rocks will not get jammed between the wheel and the caliper. All the wear parts are available off the shelf and the brake pads are larger with more material and different pad compositions are available. The pistons are sealed for dirt and water ingress. The calipers are stiff for minimal flex. The rotors are thick vented so I don't have to worry about overheating. The pedal is a Willwood 7:1 swing mount tru bar for dual master cylinders.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
PSC XR series

XR race ram in 8” stroke 2.5” bore for a couple reasons over the standard ram.
1st. it has a welded one piece rod so the rod and piston can not come unscrewed and it gives it more strength
2nd it comes with four clamps instead of two and the body has notches so the cylinder can not slide in the clamps
3rd it has a super shiny nickel?coating and machined emblem with easy to service anodized caps so it will resist corrosion and look good longer and be asked to work on
4th when you factor in the cost of the welded rods and two extra clamps included it is not much more to get the better body

XR CBR race pump is 11.3cc with -12 suction and -8 pressure with no relief or flow control valve, this means the pump has full flow and output so it requires an adjustable external relief valve which sends any overloaded oil through the cooler and back to the filter reservoir, this means there is no hot oil looping inside the pump which can cause wear, PSC recently switched to the billet CNC housing over the forged or cast housings so they are much more robust. The pump needs a two piece pulley to set the right spacing for use on the LS 6.0 truck motor, I’m running the @Goatbuilt CBR pump bracket so it’s easy to install the pump either way but the two piece pulley allows for installing a the pump first and bolting on the pulley second.

PSC/Eaton orbital was a hard decision on output choices, I dug around for as much info and opinions as possible to balance steering wheel size, wheel rotations lock to lock, and input force. I chose the 156cc over the 185cc unit as it should have lighter input and less response for non seasoned racers learning to drive including myself and boys who will learn to drive the buggy before they learn to drive a street legal car. Right now I have a 14” wheel and might go down in size if needed. I intend to run an extended rod from the wheel to the orbital with a support rod end or bushing to make the mounting more universal.

XR race reservoir is really advanced and well engineered when it comes to fluid dynamics in hydraulic systems.
The suction is -12 and the dual returns are -8. The suction can pull from the filter or oil supply equally. The filter is being feed from the return flow so the filter is flowing right back into the suction, this term can be called supercharging where the oil does not need to go back to a reservoir to stir up air and get pulled into the suction during agitated reservoir conditions like off camber sideways or zero gravity whoops. The oil in the reservoir does not see use once the system is full and all the air is purged to the high point, if you have a single ended rod then you will need some reservoir oil for volume changes.
The return ports enter into a tangential area so any entrapped air is forced out under centrifugal force into larger bubbles and can work its way up into the top of the reservoir where it can say out of the working oil.
The filter is a common Napa spin on filter with high capacity and precise filtration media. With the bottom down design during filter changes the contaminated oil can can only drip down and not into the reservoir.
The reservoir top has a recessed o-ring for a liquid tight seal and a anodized cap with top port to run excess air out of a breather during thermal expansion.

The cooler is a Thermal Transfer MA-4 with 8" or 10" Spal fan. The core is 8" x 8" x 2.5" and the overall is 10.5 x 9.7 x 2.6 with #16 SAE ports. The MA series is similar to the bar and fin style oil coolers sold by Griffin, CBR, and Triton which are commonly used for transmissions or engine oil coolers.
The MA-4 is rated at a 10psi pressure drop at 20GPM.
100ETD = 180* hot entering oil - 80* cooling ambient air.
It can remove 18,000 BTU/H @ 100 ETD or 7HP worth of heat if the hot oil is 180 and the outside air is 80.
It can remove 9,000 BTU/H @ 50 ETD or 3.5HP worth of heat if the hot oil is 130 and the outside air is 80.

The PSC CBR XR pump is 11.3cc/rev = .689ci/rev
The pulley size is close to the crank pulley guessing 1:1, if over or under driven, flow will change
at 4000 rpm 11.93 GPM
at 2000 rpm 5.97 GPM = 1 second lock to lock if the wheel could turn fast enough, 2.64 turns
at 1000 rpm 2.98 GPM
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Planning on running a rear sway bar off the rear arms. I was going to use 2.5" square tube for easier mounting of all the brackets but decided to go 2.5" DOM for higher strength in all directions. The rear arms use a linkage to stop the wobble.
 

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Just had a pic of the brake setup pop up on my Instagram explore feed, thought to myself oh this looks cool. Following the build on IG and now here as well. Killer work man, keep the pics and tech coming. :smokin:
 

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HOT DAMN I'm so in for this build.

The design and fab is already impressive, this will be one cool rig.
 
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