Its an elusion from the camera angle. It also looks like the tail is super long from the rear camera anlge. The side shots dont look so drawn out. It has a 8" longer total wheelbase than the Goatbuilt Ibex 110" WB + 8" = 118" WB total. With the 4L80 and the Ecobox and NP205, there is alot of drive train to drop in and that is a reason for having it longer. Have a look at the Bomber chassis, that car has the front seats set a ways back, it also has alot of leg room.I guess it's the small tires, but it looks long. Especially, from the front seats to the front of the car.
The axle is is upside down, you are looking at the bottom of the bracket.Awesome build!! I really look forward to your updates.
I do have a question. Are you lower link brackets finished? Looks like the joints will be open to the rocks as currently pictured is why i'm asking.
what tooling are you using to remove the shaft and top cap?For the front shocks, the plan is to rebuild the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks into 14" travel. I have the new shafts and bodies and rebuild seal kit. Planning to heat the old Loctite and with the shafts or bodies in a clamp break everything loose. Change parts and re-Loctite everything.
QUESTION do I use RED permanant Loctite or BLUE removable? Assuming red as it takes heat to break it loose.
QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. What I have is not even close for a SA application. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 14"#150 and 16"#200
For the rear shocks, the plan is to re-valve only the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks.
QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. The rear links will be a 2:1 ratio on the coilover. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 10" #300 and 10"#300
On the loctite, Red is not necessarily stronger than blue. But the it is in the case of the two most common. (Red 271 and blue 242) There are a lot of differnt numbered loctite. There are some "heavy duty" blue loctite. While I like their products, they are somewhat vague about why there are so many.QUESTION do I use RED permanant Loctite or BLUE removable? Assuming red as it takes heat to break it loose.
So fronts would be 70C/30R, rears would be 105C/40R based off of Fox chart. What about bleed screws? I believe all of them are in now due to how heavy the old valving was.what tooling are you using to remove the shaft and top cap?
red loctite - the good stuff on the top cap and eyelet
front - i anticipate you will need more spring rate
comp - 12s
reb - 8s
rear - 2:1 is a lot of motion ration, 1.6 tends to be the sweet spot
comp - 15s doubling up the 1.8
reb - 1.6-1.35 8s the rest 10s