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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #102 (Edited)
Some of the welds were able to make in a single pass on the .120 wall with a tight fit up, others required two passes to add enough filler and make the weld even when filling bigger gaps. When making a dual pass I was able to make a fast hot pass and level out the material so the second pass would go down faster and more even. I can not say one is better than the other but they both have their use.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
I guess it's the small tires, but it looks long. Especially, from the front seats to the front of the car.
Its an elusion from the camera angle. It also looks like the tail is super long from the rear camera anlge. The side shots dont look so drawn out. It has a 8" longer total wheelbase than the Goatbuilt Ibex 110" WB + 8" = 118" WB total. With the 4L80 and the Ecobox and NP205, there is alot of drive train to drop in and that is a reason for having it longer. Have a look at the Bomber chassis, that car has the front seats set a ways back, it also has alot of leg room.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #107 (Edited)
Goatbuilt Domex 100 link brackets.
Lower links are 40" center to center x 2.5" x .25 wall DOM with 1.25" x .625" bore Ballistic forged rod ends.
Upper links are 1.75" x .025" wall DOM with .875" x .75" bore FK rod ends with wide .625" bore misalignment spacers.
Tube adapters were dual passed with 1/16" rod.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #109
The wheels shown are stock 17" x 7.5" with 40mm or 1.57" offset.
If I run an aftermarket 17" x 9" with 3.5" backspacing that would move the tire another 2.25" away from the link.
It is going to be close, the link bracket is up against the pumpkin and 45* steering throws the tires in. If it rubs then so be it.
 

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Awesome build!! I really look forward to your updates.

I do have a question. Are you lower link brackets finished? Looks like the joints will be open to the rocks as currently pictured is why i'm asking.
 

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Awesome build!! I really look forward to your updates.

I do have a question. Are you lower link brackets finished? Looks like the joints will be open to the rocks as currently pictured is why i'm asking.
The axle is is upside down, you are looking at the bottom of the bracket.
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #112
Shock Rebuild & Tuning

For the front shocks, the plan is to rebuild the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks into 14" travel. I have the new shafts and bodies and rebuild seal kit. Planning to heat the old Loctite and with the shafts or bodies in a clamp break everything loose. Change parts and re-Loctite everything.

QUESTION do I use RED permanant Loctite or BLUE removable? Assuming red as it takes heat to break it loose.

QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. What I have is not even close for a SA application. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 14"#150 and 16"#200



For the rear shocks, the plan is to re-valve only the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks.

QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. The rear links will be a 2:1 ratio on the coilover. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 10" #300 and 10"#300
 

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4X4 HACK
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Beautiful as usual. Love the look on all the mitered nodes so far.
 

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For the front shocks, the plan is to rebuild the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks into 14" travel. I have the new shafts and bodies and rebuild seal kit. Planning to heat the old Loctite and with the shafts or bodies in a clamp break everything loose. Change parts and re-Loctite everything.

QUESTION do I use RED permanant Loctite or BLUE removable? Assuming red as it takes heat to break it loose.

QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. What I have is not even close for a SA application. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 14"#150 and 16"#200



For the rear shocks, the plan is to re-valve only the old 2.5" x 10" Fox piggybacks.

QUESTION what valve stack should I run as a base. The rear links will be a 2:1 ratio on the coilover. Planning for 6" uptravel total including 2" of air bump travel. For now I have springs at 10" #300 and 10"#300
what tooling are you using to remove the shaft and top cap?

red loctite - the good stuff on the top cap and eyelet

front - i anticipate you will need more spring rate
comp - 12s
reb - 8s

rear - 2:1 is a lot of motion ration, 1.6 tends to be the sweet spot
comp - 15s doubling up the 1.8
reb - 1.6-1.35 8s the rest 10s
 

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QUESTION do I use RED permanant Loctite or BLUE removable? Assuming red as it takes heat to break it loose.
On the loctite, Red is not necessarily stronger than blue. But the it is in the case of the two most common. (Red 271 and blue 242) There are a lot of differnt numbered loctite. There are some "heavy duty" blue loctite. While I like their products, they are somewhat vague about why there are so many.

For the record I've used many differnt loctites and I've never needed heat to dissemble. Whatever number you get, I highly recommend the "quickstics" as they are really handy to use.
 

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Have you taken eyes off shock shafts without damage? Heat recommended by everyone I’ve talked to and I’ve always heated to disassemble myself (only a couple times, not a pro yet...)
 

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Rock Stacker
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Discussion Starter #118 (Edited)
what tooling are you using to remove the shaft and top cap?

red loctite - the good stuff on the top cap and eyelet

front - i anticipate you will need more spring rate
comp - 12s
reb - 8s

rear - 2:1 is a lot of motion ration, 1.6 tends to be the sweet spot
comp - 15s doubling up the 1.8
reb - 1.6-1.35 8s the rest 10s
So fronts would be 70C/30R, rears would be 105C/40R based off of Fox chart. What about bleed screws? I believe all of them are in now due to how heavy the old valving was.

For springs I was going off of what Ratz Racing #4821 had on their Ibex four seater, which was 14"x150 over 16"x200 front and 16"x150 over 18"x150 rear mounted on the axle.
From running spring calculations its looks like mine should be closer to 200 and 200 or 200 and 250 for the front. The traded springs I have should be close enough to get me out and running.

I already have the 10" piggy backs from the old buggy as well as the 300 springs. Due to the rear seat location, the shocks are more forward for clearance creating the higher ratio location on the links. Realistically the rear is not going to droop all 14"s past ride height with 6" of up travel so I could try to push the shocks a little further out to make sure all of the shock travel is being used and limit the droop to 10"

2.0:1 is 20" on a 40" link
1.7:1 is 23.5"
1.65:1 is 24.25" At this ratio the 2.5" shock on the link should be equivalent to a 2.0" mounted on the axle. The 10" shock would equal 16.5 at the wheel
1.6:1 is 25"
I see some tuners show the ideal rear ratio as .8 -.6 and don't go past .5
.5 is 20" on a 40" link
.6 is 24"
.8 is 32"

I have some aluminum jaws for the shaft. For the body I plan to put a slug inside of the body so it doesn't crush.

I was planning on using heat to loosen the thread locker.

For thread locker I will have to see what I have. I have a bunch of different ones but will probably go get some new red as what I have might be expired as I don't use red hardly ever. I normally use the blue sticks as it holds onto the threads and makes things easier than the liquid.
 

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Rock Stacker
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1,496 Posts
Discussion Starter #120
The shocks are in the middle of rebuild.
I heated the top caps in increments with a propane torch and gave time for everything to evenly heat up and they would not release until the 500* temp was reached as stated by Loctite. One of the top caps turned brown and the other had shades of brown.
To hold the bodies, I put two of the aluminum shaft guides with a shaft in them into the body and used aluminum V blocks to hold the body in a vice. The body did slip/turn a little in the V blocks until I got to 500*
The eyes released around 350* and did not discolor. I I used a bar in the eye socket so not to scratch the anodizing.
I ordered new top caps as the old ones looked like garbage afterwords.
The pistons are the current low flow design with red oil.
One of the new 14" bodies had light surface rust inside the tube, I scotch brited it lightly by hand and it was still visible. I have a call into Fox to see if they can send out a new one or I can try to scotch brite it with more pressure and probably drill power to see if it cleans up.
 
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