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That steering angle makes me happy!

Also loving the mitered joints instead of bends, it adds an industrial look that a lot of rigs seem to avoid. Some of the more rock bouncer type chassis I see these days go way too crazy with bent everything...
 

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I've always ended up with discolored eyes and caps FWIW.
get a 9-hole piston for the front if you have the low flow one.

if you have a lathe, chucking up the body in there, with the seal head in there will keep it from crushing and locking out the chuck was always a good way to hold it. next time apply heat to the body only.
 

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Discussion Starter #124 (Edited)
Polished the ID of the rusted Fox coilover body with some scotch brites wrapped around a rod powered by a drill. It looked better than new when done. I was told they could have sat on the shelf for awhile and that is where the rust started since they had no coating and or oil inside to protect them. While I could have waited for Fox to warranty them out, I didn't feel like waiting for another month for them since they are slow right now or having to deal with all the phone calls and delayed shipping. It was the same deal on the 9 hole high flow piston. I placed an order with one vendor who was waiting on an order from Fox to fill and it might be 2 weeks then they had to drill out the bleed holes before shipping out. The same vendor also said I could reuse my old wear bands and orings from my old 8 hole piston when I asked if I needed new ones, I didnt think that sounded right so I researched some more and sure enough the wear bands are a different style from 8 hole to 9 hole, I call back to get them on order and notice that the wear bands they quoted are the bronze bypass version, at this point I don't know if they screwed up again or if they use the bypass bands on regular coilovers for some unknown benefit. I found another vendor who has them in stock but I have to drill them out, the factory has halfway drilled locations.

So this is the question how many and what size bleed holes to drill in a 2.5" 9 hole piston:
- .098" x 2 holes, a 3/32" drill is 96% of this size, this was listed by two different vendors, this is also very close in percentage to a 2.0" shock with .070 x 2 holes which also appears to be common
- .052" x 1 hole - this is standard for a factory built Fox bypass shock
- .070" x 1 hole - this was listed for bump stop use?
 

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The shocks are in the middle of rebuild.
I heated the top caps in increments with a propane torch and gave time for everything to evenly heat up and they would not release until the 500* temp was reached as stated by Loctite. One of the top caps turned brown and the other had shades of brown.
To hold the bodies, I put two of the aluminum shaft guides with a shaft in them into the body and used aluminum V blocks to hold the body in a vice. The body did slip/turn a little in the V blocks until I got to 500*
The eyes released around 350* and did not discolor. I I used a bar in the eye socket so not to scratch the anodizing.
I ordered new top caps as the old ones looked like garbage afterwords.
The pistons are the current low flow design with red oil.
One of the new 14" bodies had light surface rust inside the tube, I scotch brited it lightly by hand and it was still visible. I have a call into Fox to see if they can send out a new one or I can try to scotch brite it with more pressure and probably drill power to see if it cleans up.

Just a question, not talking shit at all. Wouldn’t it be cost effective to sell the shocks and buy new ones? Seems like a lot of work and new parts to convert 10s to 14s


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Discussion Starter #126
Just a question, not talking shit at all. Wouldn’t it be cost effective to sell the shocks and buy new ones? Seems like a lot of work and new parts to convert 10s to 14s
Selling a used 10" piggyback shock is the tough part. 12" or 14", I wouldn't have a problem. It was probably a wash on cost but I learned how to do a complete tear down, rebuild, revalve, new shim stacks, and added the high flow pistons which I would have to do with a new shock as well. Plus is I have spare shafts and bodies for the rear shocks now.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Rebuilt the 10" coilovers into 14"s. I decided to go with the 2 qty 3/32 bleed holes in the 9 hole piston. I used a drill press to finish drilling out the pre drilled spots on the pistons. Everything got new seals and oil. To fill the piggyback with oil and set the floating piston height. I filled the reservoir with oil all the way to the top and then pushed in the floating piston and bleed out just a little air and oil until it sealed just like you would do with the rod guide. Then pushed down the floating piston to the height of 9" with a 11" reservoir. The valve stack and 9 hole piston was shorter so I added some more washers / bushings to take up space on the shaft so the nut would be located on the threads correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Rear bumps are in. Used the Wide Open Designs bump cans and mounting plates. They have a offset design so it drops the bump either lower or higher off the horizontal tube. Added some 3" x 3" x 3/4" strike plates, they are welded all the way around, it just looks like only the sides are welded.
 

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I keep coming back to check this out and man am I loving the cleanliness of everything. Please tell me this is getting clear coated. What are you using to clean up the tubing? I've been hitting mine with some foam backed 120 grit pads and it is a TON of work and I am only cleaning up the weld joints haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Looks good! God I love that steering. I wonder how high that's going to be when you have the big rubber on it? Looks like maybe 9"-10" more than the bottom of the diff.
I will need all that clearance since I'm used to plowing through the rocks. It will be a learning curve driving a regular buggy.

I keep coming back to check this out and man am I loving the cleanliness of everything. Please tell me this is getting clear coated. What are you using to clean up the tubing? I've been hitting mine with some foam backed 120 grit pads and it is a TON of work and I am only cleaning up the weld joints haha.
Some of the DOM is smooth and no scale, looks like cold rolled, and only needs scotch brite and degreaser. Some looks like hot rolled with alot of scale and needs scotch brite and or an abrasive woven / composite wheel on an angle grinder. For the weld prep on the ends or middle or I use a 24" strip of 2" wide emery cloth and run it back and forth like a shoe shine.
 

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Some of the DOM is smooth and no scale, looks like cold rolled, and only needs scotch brite and degreaser. Some looks like hot rolled with alot of scale and needs scotch brite and or an abrasive woven / composite wheel on an angle grinder. For the weld prep on the ends or middle or I use a 24" strip of 2" wide emery cloth and run it back and forth like a shoe shine.
Thank you. :beer: Most of the stuff I have needs a decent degreasing and the scale removed. I'll take a look and see if I can find one of the wheels you mentioned.
 

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I order dom from 1 supplier. Sometimes it comes gray and oily. (Not shiny like hrew) others it comes dark and drier. The darker with I dont wanna call it mill scale but it doesn’t hold paint very well


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We are in the same area, so I’m not sure where you get your steel from. Years ago there was only one place to get bulk DOM. Used them ever since. I still get salesmen coming around telling me they can get what ever I want. I’ve dealt wit pdm, valley iron, B&b metals, and ram cast.


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Discussion Starter #137 (Edited)
Rear trailing arm coilover mock up. I wandered from the original cad design and freehand fit the coilovers and the tubes to get as much motion ratio as possible while clearing the seats with enough room to prevent rubbing on the frame and safe clearance away from the seats. I will most likely have a shield of some sort between the coilover and the seat so someones fingers or toes can not end up in the coils. The front end of the seat will be raised up higher and seat inclined so the clearance will only increase.
 

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Looking good! I added some info regarding the trailing arms to my thread. I would appreciate it if you would check it out and make sure I didn't type something in error.
 
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