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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My front Elocker hasn't been working.
This is what I found.
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Here are all of the components of the Elocker actuator, after cleaning.
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Start by installing the springs and brushes. I used small tie straps to hold the brushes in.
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Armature installed.
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There is a small disc that goes into the electrical housing. Attach motor cover. It is pinned and can only go on one way.
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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Gear and spring. The washer goes between the two.
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Apply grease to the spring. Push the shaft to the side so you can apply as much grease as possible to part of the spring that touches itself. I cycled mine with 2 pairs of channel/locks to be sure.
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Thin coat of grease on the contact side.
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Position the tang of the gear approximately 180* out from the lump on the cover. The timing will be taken care of later by cycling the actuator out of the differential.
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Install cover with gear and spring attached. Install outer drive gear and e clip.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Connect the Elocker actuator to the 5 pin harness and engage to the "lock" position.

You will now need to manually engage the locker. Jack up one side of the axle and move the fork to the inside into the locked positiion. Rocking the suspended wheel back and forth will make this easier.
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Reinstall actuator assembly.

Front.
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Rear.
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While I was at it I upgraded my switches to Carlings.
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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This is the factory grease used in the locker. I used this throughout the rebuild on everything that moves. I also used it on the 2 o-rings that seal the assembly.
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good job
not sure what that greese is, but on electrical contacts, use a clear dielectric silicon greese, it is on the contacts inside of good quailty switches, Totota & CARLING switches use it as do others
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the compliments. I searched Pirate and google for a good write-up and didn't find much. As far as the grease I used, both of my lockers had it in them, including the contact plate. See my first picture. Just be sure not to get it on the armature or brushes. I figure if it's good enough for Toyota, it's good enough for me.

The lockers are working perfectly and I'll post up after after a few runs with an update.
 

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A little more related tech- If you open up the motor case and see broken peices of magnet, dont panic. Just clean it out and put the magnet back together like a puzzle with high quality CA super glue. (this is an old R/C motor trick) Try to line up the seams and press everything together so there are no gaps, less is more when it comes to the super glue. If you are having a hard time controlling the glue coming out of the bottle tip, put a blob of glue on a penny and use an x-acto knife to apply it in little spots.
 

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been trying to source the o ring/seals for the e locker, toyota claims they cant get em...... :shaking:

anybody know a good source other than toyota?
just use a bulk o-ring:smokin:

nice writeup! this happened to my rear e-locker did the same as you now it works fine:smokin:
 

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Go to your local transmission guy :) we have all the good and weird o-rings.
 
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