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With the thread posted about what you could have done differently I need some more opinions before I drop some serious cash. Some would swap the e-locker for an ARB, other wish they had a better setup for the ARB. Is ther an advantage for one over the other? Strength issues? I'd like to run 5.29's and am ready to go with the factory e-lock unit, but will hold out for the ARB if it's a little stronger. What say you?
 

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ARB all the way, have had one since 94, and just recently broke it, and went down to there main distribution center here in seattle and they fixed it up for me, and even putting one in my new d60 for the rear
 

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arb

Despite the problem I noted in the other thread (what you would do different). I need to point out tha I *really* do like the ARB.

I run 5.29s from US Gear. I was worried about snagging the lines going to the difs on brush and what not but if properly routed there's no need to worry that I can see. In my case, I'd have to blow away both drive shafts in order to expose the air lines. I run ARBs in both front and rear but i see a lot of folks that like to go detroit in back and ARB up front. Since mine is a DD as well as trail rig, I chose ARB for both.

Up here in the Oregon, the roads are icy every so often and I do a lot better than some guys here with detroits and such since I can turn mine off.
 

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Id vote for an ARB. I have one in the front of my 69 bronco and it works great. For the Toyota, I would go with the ARB because if you ever do break it you can throw in an open diff or welded diff. The elocker requires housing modifications and if you break, you have to replace with another elocker. You can move it around easier ie, front , rear, another truck, rent it to a friend for a week etc. Gotta love those TOyotas....my2cents.
 

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All I know is I have been VERY happy with ARB lockers since I got the first one back in 1995, and IMHO - *ANY* selectable locker for a front axle is the BEST option.
 

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Don't ARB's need to be rebuilt every couple of years or so? I don't own one, but had heard this.
 

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montezuma said:
Don't ARB's need to be rebuilt every couple of years or so? I don't own one, but had heard this.
Just more myths spread by people who are scared of the technology that an ARB represents :p

Seals *can* and *do* go bad. The seals in my ARB lasted from around 1996 to 2001 - installed some new ones one afternoon and back in action...
 

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DRM said:


Just more myths spread by people who are scared of the technology that an ARB represents :p

Seals *can* and *do* go bad. The seals in my ARB lasted from around 1996 to 2001 - installed some new ones one afternoon and back in action...
Agreed - easy solution. If you open your diff, replace the seals - no brainer. Doesn't matter why you pulled the diff, just replace the seals if you do.

Mine was installed in 96 (Jack?) and still works fine today. I had a bad pinion bearing and replaced the seals when that was fixed as a preventative measure.
 

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My buddy kept blowing the seals on his ARB due to too much pressure (he was running a non ARB compressor) we put a regulator on it and he has had no problems for years now. Also you might consider running a moisture trap to keep,well, moisture out of the piston and all. Just for extra insurance. ;)
 

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brocbronc said:
Id vote for an ARB. I have one in the front of my 69 bronco and it works great. For the Toyota, I would go with the ARB because if you ever do break it you can throw in an open diff or welded diff. The elocker requires housing modifications and if you break, you have to replace with another elocker. You can move it around easier ie, front , rear, another truck, rent it to a friend for a week etc. Gotta love those TOyotas....my2cents.
agreed, run ARB front and back, run the rear for maybe 2-3 years now and the front for another year and a bit, and apart from electrical and compressor dramas its fine, mines a soft top, sees a lot of hard conditions and even a lot of water which is why im not impressed with the electrics, although:

with OBA and manual switchs itd be hard to beat
 
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