Well I'm twin sticking, and read that people had problems with the T-Shift Jumping out of 2wd low, but the J-shift didn't have that problem. I've got the T-shift tore down, and I can see why it would have a tendancy to jump out of gear. So I guess the real question is, can raid the shift rails from a J-shift to make a better T-shift! Everything looks the same to me. I don't think I'm going to do that though.
For those that care, here is the T-shift rails. You can see the gradual slope for the Rear Low detent ball. There isn't a nice pocket for it like the rest of the gears. Normally, when the front axle is in low, moves the detent rod up and locks the rear axle into gear. I might try to build up some weld and make a better pocket for the ball.
I've also shown where you would need to grind on the shift rail, so you can keep the detent rods, which will prevent one axle from being in high with the other in Low.
I got a nice surprise when I pulled the idler gear :shaking:
No, I'm too much of a hack for measuring. It's not really a critical modification, either you can shift or you can't.
Only the rear shift rail needs to be modified. If you figure out how the detent rods move, you can pretty much see where you need to grind. I just used my 4" grinder, then finished with my dremel and a small grinding stone the same size as the detent rod.
I should mention, only the t-shift case needs this mod. You can get 2low and front wheel on the j-shift without doing anything more than twin sticking. The j-shift will also let you get one axle in low and the other in Hi.
Anyway, in the first picture the rails and detents are layed out in the nuetral position. If you tried to shift the front axle, the detent rod would move and contact the rear shift rail, preventing shifting. So you have to open up the groove on the rear shift rod.
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