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Discussion Starter #401
The turbos are both water cooled.....IICR correctly

My last truck the turbo was oil cooled

I believe that from what I have read is that water (coolant) cooled turbos will last longer, because the bearing temps are able to be cooled off much faster after shutdown

I have not be able to find info if the Eco used bearings in these turbos and if so, how many bearings
 

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The turbos are both water cooled.....IICR correctly

My last truck the turbo was oil cooled

I believe that from what I have read is that water (coolant) cooled turbos will last longer, because the bearing temps are able to be cooled off much faster after shutdown

I have not be able to find info if the Eco used bearings in these turbos and if so, how many bearings
Water cooled turbos keep the bearings at a more level temperature and keeps the oil from coking up from getting to hot.

From my little bit of Google it looks like the EcoBoost uses plain ole journal bearings not the new fancy wiz bang ball bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #403 (Edited)
I added a drain valve to the bottom of the JLT catch can, which will make draining the can so much easier

Just drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the aluminum can, and screwed on a mini ball valve

Works great.......I will get some pics up soon

I did have a rattle develop under the truck and found a broken factory exhaust clamp near the tcase. More quality parts from Ford?

63,000 miles........oil change probably in 3 weeks
 

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Checking in



Got the wife a '15 2.7 right after Xmas. Had 25k when we got it and are already up to 31k. Google says the factory oil monitor is really good and to just change it when it tells you too, what does pbb say?



I normally change my own oil, but this is my first vehicle under warranty. I've heard there is a risk of denied warranty work if you change your oil yourself, any truth to this?
No truth to that at all. Just keep good details, receipts for oil and filters and mileage.

I've been driving my 2011 3.5 for almost 6 years. Been a wicked truck. But would never go over 5K miles on an oil change.

They run hot with turbos and are known to have a lot of fuel blow by into the oil.

Never heard nothing much bad with the 2.7s other than bad factory heads and the oil pans leaking due to being plastic and having crap sealing surfaces.

Sent from my SM-G870W using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #405
Every 4 days............full



Adding a valve will make draining the junk a lot easier and faster



Drilled a hole and taped the threads........pleased to find the bottom was thick enough for some threads






Yes, I know the valve is "open"............I closed it after taking the picture

 

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Discussion Starter #411
Every 4 days............full...
Dang, I can get a whole tank out of the wife's 3.5 expy without getting that full.
It's like this for 4-5 months of the year, when it's cold outside

The rest of the year it barely collects anything , and I have to drain it once a month
 

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Discussion Starter #412
The clunking is back and it's bad again

I can only assume it's the driveshaft splines need greasing again

I am out of warranty come May 2019

I really don't want to pay a $100 deductible and the inconvience of a dealer having my truck for 8 hours

I might do it myself........or explore a one piece driveshaft option
 

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The clunking is back and it's bad again

I can only assume it's the driveshaft splines need greasing again

I am out of warranty come May 2019

I really don't want to pay a $100 deductible and the inconvience of a dealer having my truck for 8 hours

I might do it myself........or explore a one piece driveshaft option
Would an after market DS fix the issue? Don't know what the factory DS are like but I am assuming a custom build shaft would be much easier to service.
 

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Discussion Starter #414
An aftermarket one piece would be great, to get ride of the 2 piece with the center splines.....that dry out even with the rubber boot

I added a 1 one piece aluminum to my old one ton, best mod ever.

Not sure I want to spend $500 though
 

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Discussion Starter #417
I just wonder if the slip yoke at the tcase is dry or the splines inside the boot? Or both maybe

I bet I will be able to reuse the boot, no need to order a new one.......right?



I will get two new clamps and some oil this week
 

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I just wonder if the slip yoke at the tcase is dry or the splines inside the boot? Or both maybe

I bet I will be able to reuse the boot, no need to order a new one.......right?



I will get two new clamps and some oil this week
Are those components not painted or plated from the factory? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #419
The rear axle is solid rust also

Ford really skimped out alot on these trucks
 

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No kidding, the new 10spd ones with no trans skid plate and plastic trans pans is about as dumb as could be. Boss split one with a stick before the first engine oil change.
 
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