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I don't use one and have never had any problem. But I do run direct from the battery not from any accessory fuse.
 

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Just use a relay and don't worry about it.
 

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Crowdog said:
Now I have them come on when the ignition is hot, so there is no switch.
Were is the power coming from? Your fuse panel? Use a relay or stand the chance of :nuke: your wiring harness!
 

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HIHACK!!!!!

[hijack] Next electric fan related question.

Where do you all locate your thermostats?

I currently have an adjustable one with the sensor mounted on the inner side of the radiator, and its a bear to keep it adjusted right because when the air temps are really cold the rad is the last thing to get hot...but the engine temp goes up past Normal running temp...I've had it up past 210 on a cold day (high RPM runs in the snow)...still didnt kick on...on a normal 50*+ day it would maintain the motor at 195* or less.

When I adjust it for "NORMAL" ambient temps and run in them it works fine.

Ideally I would like to mount it so it gets the temperature of the actual coolant, like the one thats screwed into my manifold. (aftermarket)
Dont know how to make the fan therm sensor into the type that my guage uses, or if maybe the one from the guage could swap to the fan thermostat.

Would mounting to the outside of the manifold be better/easy?
I think it would be more ideal.

Any ideas or suggestions?

MJ
[/hijack]
 

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Use a relay. They're simple and it's not worth risking being stuck with a melted switch. Let me help you out here...

 

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waterboy
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Old Scout said:


Were is the power coming from? Your fuse panel? Use a relay or stand the chance of :nuke: your wiring harness!

yeah what he said. which means: by using the relay, you are keeping the high amp wires out of the passanger compartment. it only takes a low amp switch to turn on or off the relay, whereas it takes a high amp power to turn the fan on. by keeping the relay, you can wire the relay to a low amp wire that is hot when the key is on, rather than having that high amp switch connected that way. makes it easier on the parts IMHO.
 

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UTVGuide.net
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Discussion Starter #12
I understand how to wire relays and it is wired today with a relay. I no longer need the "switch" functionality of a relay since I am using switched-on fuses (each fan off of a 20AMP fuse).

It was my understanding that a relay somehow helps with the power load at startup. Is this true?

The reason I am asking the question, is the relays seem to fail after a period of time, and I would rather eliminate them if I can.

The battery & fuse block are outside of the passenger area and this is for a sand rail.

Jon
 

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crashinaz said:
Use a relay. They're simple and it's not worth risking being stuck with a melted switch. Let me help you out here...

That pic sucks!

 

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Maine Jeepah said:
HIHACK!!!!!

[hijack] Next electric fan related question.

Where do you all locate your thermostats?

I currently have an adjustable one with the sensor mounted on the inner side of the radiator, and its a bear to keep it adjusted right because when the air temps are really cold the rad is the last thing to get hot...but the engine temp goes up past Normal running temp...I've had it up past 210 on a cold day (high RPM runs in the snow)...still didnt kick on...on a normal 50*+ day it would maintain the motor at 195* or less.

When I adjust it for "NORMAL" ambient temps and run in them it works fine.

Ideally I would like to mount it so it gets the temperature of the actual coolant, like the one thats screwed into my manifold. (aftermarket)
Dont know how to make the fan therm sensor into the type that my guage uses, or if maybe the one from the guage could swap to the fan thermostat.

Would mounting to the outside of the manifold be better/easy?
I think it would be more ideal.

Any ideas or suggestions?

MJ
[/hijack]
What Engine??? I would get a fan switch. There mounted in the radiator of most FWD cars. I used a fan switch from a dodge that closed at 180F and opened at 170F. You could drill and tap your T-stat housing for the mount. BTW use a relay the switch can only handle 2 amps!
 

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I use the cheap thermostat from Kragen. I slid the probe between the radiator fins, right at the radiator outlet. It is not the most relaible, but it does work very well. I intend to change it in the future to read the water at ther thermostat housing.
 

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Lloyd said:
IMHO the best place for a fan switch is the cylinder head. An intake manifold port would be acceptable too.
I was planning to put my switch on the outlet side of the radiator. My logic(perhaps twisted) is that I am concerned with the temp of the coolant going into the engine. Seems to me that the temp of the coolant going into the engine is what the fan has the most control over. If the engine is hot and the coolant coming in is relatively cool I don't see how the fan will really help. This logic of mine was agreed to by the guy fabbing up my radiator. He is welding in bungs for temp sensors(dual fans) on the outlet side of rad tank.
Not being argumetive, just want to get it right.

Dont those taurus fans pull something like 40 amps? Are the standard Bosch relays strong enough?
 

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I just found a couple of write ups (Chebby stuff) where they took a adjustable therm probe and put it in through the top rad. hose, and clamped down around the wire. (used some silicone to seal it I guess :rolleyes: ) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6776/radfan.html

That would be ideal (as in easy) in my case, but my probe appears to be made of different material than the ones they used (mine is AL, or something, theirs appeared to be copperlike)

I also found alot of complaint sabout the cheapo adjustable therms for the fans, just liek I have...hmmm wonder why that is.
I have mine still wired with a switch as well (it was just switched manually before)
I'm just gonna go back to that.

OS, its a 258, I'm currently using one of the useless (used to be emmision garbage) manifold ports for my guage, would like to use a similar one for my therm if I can figure out how to make my current set up hook up that way.
Probably have to buy soemthing new...the slipping in past the rad hose trick might not be so bad after all.

MJ



:rolleyes:
 

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Maine Jeepah said:
I just found a couple of write ups (Chebby stuff) where they took a adjustable therm probe and put it in through the top rad. hose, and clamped down around the wire. (used some silicone to seal it I guess :rolleyes: ) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6776/radfan.html
When I tried that method before, it ran the same way (if I remember right). I might try it again when I replace the radiator. My fan can barely keep up, it is the exacty same fan he is running.
 
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