I just put a 4.0 in a CJ7 at 500 miles ago and the fuel pump pooped out today. It was an Airtex universal inline and I mounted up behind the DS wheel well and then put a sheetmetal cover over it so the mud would not get up there. I am wondering are the Airtex pumps that bad or is it possibly overheating in the confined space? I figured the fuel flowing through it would cool it off. I works for a little while now but then go TU and you have to let it sit for awhile before it will work again. Not working it is fairly quiet, working it is pretty loud now.
Electric Fuel Pump overheat?
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I see Aeromotive even puts a foam cover on theres so they must not generate much heat.
Amazon.com: Aeromotive 11109 Fuel Pump: Automotive
I did see some rust flakes in the clear pre-filter plugging it about 50%. That may be my real problem. I think I may move the main filter so it is in front of the pump instead of after.
Amazon.com: Aeromotive 11109 Fuel Pump: Automotive
I did see some rust flakes in the clear pre-filter plugging it about 50%. That may be my real problem. I think I may move the main filter so it is in front of the pump instead of after.
FWIW, my 4.0 CJ7 had a stock 89 tank and pump in it. It had been untouched since it was installed in 2000. I had the tank out to fix smog lines, the tank was labeled 89 Wrangler in wrecking yard paint pen is how I found out. It looked like whoever installed it just spliced a couple of fill hoses together to make it work. The tank was installed with the filler to the pass side ala CJ. Might be worth a thought.
Travis..
Travis..
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1,675 Posts
Could be just working it too hard when it tries to prime. Does sit have a long start?
On my wife's Wagoneer I spliced a fuel pump on the stock pickup so it would be immersed like they were designed. Easy prime and runs cool.
If I were you I'd swap in the proper year YJ fuel tank and pump. I won't run a fuel pump trying to pull.
On my wife's Wagoneer I spliced a fuel pump on the stock pickup so it would be immersed like they were designed. Easy prime and runs cool.
If I were you I'd swap in the proper year YJ fuel tank and pump. I won't run a fuel pump trying to pull.
It sits right back by the tank. I think the pulling through the dirty filter was too much for it. The only thing I do not like about the in tank pump is then it is even harder to get to if it poops out. I got some new filters and I am going to try that with the wife ready to rescue with the truck+trailer.
I will look into the YJ tank though.
I will look into the YJ tank though.
I was thinking of that, you can get diagram low pressure pumps and they suck like crazy.Mine is filter to high volume low pressure pump (aka. lift pump as close to tank as possible) to high pressure pump to high pressure filter. No more issues.
Were you having the same problems I am?
I am warming to the in tank pump idea just trying to figure out how to do it. CJ has round sender hole and YJ is square bolt in. Need to use CJ sender to work with CJ fuel gauge. Looks like I need to go to a YJ tank and adapt the CJ sender.
I was also thinking about a different pump. My F250 has an inline pump that sucks from that tank, it sits on the frame rail right around the drivers feet. I can barely hear it, and it has 200k miles on it. It is made for pumping diesel though, not sure if it would like gas.
Are you sure it was an 89? That would have been for a 4.2 so I would think the pump is still on the engine. Also, aren't the YJ fill tubes on the drivers side? That is what I am seeing.
I think the easiest for in tank will be to put a pump on the CJ sender. Otherwise I may go to a two pump setup.
I had issues with new tank and inner coating coming off, vapour lock and pump became noisy. This is on a 83 CJ7 original tank & fuel sender with 90 4.0l(stroked & bored). Been like this for ~10 years & no problems.
You can use the CJ sender, cut the 45deg angle pick up tube and connect in tank pump.
You can use the CJ sender, cut the 45deg angle pick up tube and connect in tank pump.
I have the plastic tank so no coating problems. The exhaust stops at the muffler right now though and I do not think that hot exhaust is helping at all. I need to get it into a muffler shop and get that finished.
I am a bit leery of the in tank pump with CJ sender because it looks a bit wussy to be holding a pump on the end. The YJ sender is much beefier to accommodate the pump. Also, how do you get the pump wires out the hole cleanly?
Feed through connections & wiring at the pick & pull from another sender or run the wiring out & use this stuff to seal the hole (aerospace product).
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/aerospa.../fuelresproducts/Documents/PR_20680_20TDS.pdf
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/aerospa.../fuelresproducts/Documents/PR_20680_20TDS.pdf
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm
Hmm, I coulda swore, but I'm not sure. It had a round sender hole that was held in with the stamped steel lock ring. It had an in-tank pump and as I recall a baffle inside and something that located the pump to keep if from moving. It could have said 91, that would make sense. As I said, the tank was turned and they sectioned the fill hose to make it work since the tank ports weren't in the right spots. Personally, I wouldn't worry about an in-tank pump, they work great.
Travis..
Yes, it has a return. The fuel pumping issue seems to be okay now the PCM is moving the mixture around. I checked the MAP and it appears to be out of range so I am hoping that will fix it.
You are not the first to say that. I am looking into a different pump and using this for backup. I know Airtex is related to Wells and Wells is junk.
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