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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How big of a fuse do I need to protect a 3/16" cable direct connected to the battery?
I only need to protect the cable from fire due to a short, not the accessories.

Where can I find one local?


Details:

I added a second fuse block fed by an extra long starter cable. the main lead to the fuse block is a direct line to the battery, runs across the firewall and is not fused. Prolly not a good idea. Everthing downstream is individually fused so I only need to protect the cable between the battery and the fuse block.

I haven't found a heavy duty fuse in the local autozone/Napas/etc and I poked around online but didn't anything so I'm obviously lookin in the wrong place.

Next, 50 or 60 amps should be plenty for my power budget, but is this too many amps to protect this? It was a starter cable on a English/German Ford V6, so it can carry a bunch of current, but will a 60A fuse blow if the cable direct shorts to ground and starts to over heat?

ideas?
 

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<FONT COLOR="Red"> In your situation, I'd use a "fusable link" to better handle load surges. This is a type of "cable" that is intended to melt due to a CONTINUEOUS overload. Check into it.. </FONT c>
 

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For safety's sake, you want to have the smallest fuse in there that you think you can use w/o blowing it under normal working loads (plus a tad to spare for turn-on surges or other small variables, etc.)

You seem worried about protecting the 3/16" cable... I'd say a 60A or so fuse is going to blow looong before that cable gets hot. Starter's usually pull in the hundreds of amps (I think), so a 60A fuse would be very safe, IMHO.

As you probably know, put the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll checkout fusable links. might just work. I don't ever expect this to blow, so it really is just a safety thing.

You seem worried about protecting the 3/16" cable...

I'm worried about this big beefy cable getting cut or torn and grounding out and since so much current CAN flow through it it would be a big problem.

-tnx,

- Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rock - thanks for the link. I think i'm gonna go for a 50A manual breaker.

Now that I have a part # maybe I can find this local.

- Dan
 

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Originally posted by Dan-H:
<STRONG>
Next, 50 or 60 amps should be plenty for my power budget, but is this too many amps to protect this? It was a starter cable on a English/German Ford V6, so it can carry a bunch of current, but will a 60A fuse blow if the cable direct shorts to ground and starts to over heat?

ideas?</STRONG>
Dan - instead of adding a fuse? Why don't you protect the cable in a good loom <IMG SRC="smilies/question.gif" border="0">

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The cable is very well protected, but I don't like having a cable that can easily flow 100+ amps unfused across the top of the firewall.

Its a factory starter cable (Bosch) has a heavy insulator and a 1/4" foam protection wrap around most of it, but...

So, I'm gonna drop $2.37 on a breaker and not worry about it.

- Dan
 

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Auto stores sell mini-breakers in the 'Help' section. The breakers are momentary and reset after the load is eliminated. I think the breakers were used mostly in GM cars. The are typically small silver rectangles with two posts. Also car audio stores often stock Maxi fuses and holders, high amperage breakers and high amp glass fuse/holders, up to 100 plus amp range.

Joe <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tnx joe, I found exactly what I needed at wytek. A bolt-style manual reset 50A breaker and its cheap. My cable has a bolt-on that i mounted to the terminal clamp. I'll put one of these inline and sleep better <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

- Dan
 
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