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Discussion Starter #1
It takes two men and a handful of playboy bunnies to rotate an engine on my engine stand. Anybody got any ideas as to bearings or pillow blocks for the rotating portion?

Everytime I start thinking about it, there are so many variables I can't even get started and figured I'd see who had any suggestions.

I was thinking some sort of immediately available bearing assembly, along with some sort of easily fabbed shaft, or cut off the existing pivot tube, weld a piece of angle iron to it and weld a pair of pillow blocks on top and weld the engine plate to the shaft. Or, I could take a pair of wheel bearings and spend hours and $ making shafts and housings, all for a lousy engine stand.

Lemee have your input :flipoff2:

Peace,
PT
 

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Uhhh.... grab a front spindle and hub assembly of any 4wd vehicle that uses a bolt on spindle.

Use the flanged part of the spindle to attach the arms that mount to the block, weld a nut inside the bore so you can screw in some kind of T handle to turn the engine, attach the hub assembly to the stand.

Gets you a nice greased bearing setup that should be able to easily handle the weight and spin with ease ;)
 

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DRM said:
Uhhh.... grab a front spindle and hub assembly of any 4wd vehicle that uses a bolt on spindle.

Use the flanged part of the spindle to attach the arms that mount to the block, weld a nut inside the bore so you can screw in some kind of T handle to turn the engine, attach the hub assembly to the stand.

Gets you a nice greased bearing setup that should be able to easily handle the weight and spin with ease ;)
Yup. Works great, and WAY cheaper than buying a bearing'd stand to begin with.
 

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I use the big Snap-on stand with the crank on the back.
I hang light truck diesel engines on it regualrly, and I can rotate on around by myself 360degrees with no problem. It could be improved more if it had a couple thrust bearings on the shaft with the worm gear.
Brian,
 

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Yep, ever since I did this so I could rotate my bench grinders around



I've been threatenting to do this for several months on my engine stand as I cannot turn my 460 either. Attaching the hub & spindle is gonna get a little creative, but I have no doubt it can be done.

As stated, it should easily hold the weight of a motor and the lockout will allow you to lock the motor in any position (gotta tack the stub shaft to the spindle). I've got another hub assy like the one I used on my grinder stand, just haven't found the time to put all this together. I'll probably even leave the rotor on as it'll give me something to weld to the upright of my existing stand (Powerbuilt from Checker)
 

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The low-buck solution to this is to grease the snot out of the pivoting surfaces. It has worked well for me on a 2.6l, several 302s, and a 400M.

You'd be surprised how well it works.

Randii
 

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PT,
Cut off the current engine rotation piece, take a piece of 1/4" plate, drill the Rover wheel bolt pattern in it, cut a hole big enough to get to the hub nut, weld to the engine stand, reinforce.

Take the Rover hub, drill and tap in between the wheelbearings for a 7/16 bolt to use as a rotation lock.

The piece that the engine bolts to- either drill the Rover flange pattern and bolt to the stub or weld together.

If you have a bunch of stubs around (and I am sure you do) you can make a bunch of different mounts for more then just engines.
Some other thoughts about modding engine stands:

Cut the bell housing bolt pattern in a piece of plate and weld to a stub so you can use for trannies.

If your stand casters dont lock, replace them.

Get two like stands, perform modification to both. Place them facing each other, get some square tube that will fit inside the legs that are under the engine (on an H type stand). Drill some holes in the legs and weld on some nuts. Both stands move in/out on the square tube and you can lock them in place, basically adjusting the width between the stands. Use this as a mount for working on axle casings.

Add an electric motor and some belts and pulleys to the above and you have a big fawking lathe

Ok the last one is a joke :D
 

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Either you are all a bunch of weinies, or your engine stands really, really, really suck. :flipoff2:

Pete
 

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pcorssmit said:
Either you are all a bunch of weinies, or your engine stands really, really, really suck. :flipoff2:

Pete
The excellent tech content of your post-count-padding aside, I wonder about the various stands. Mine *looks* like a decent stand, which is why I bought it, but it won't turn the 460 to save it's life, perhaps lots of lube as Randy suggests would solve the problem.

I used a lesser, cheaper stand (like the little 750lb ones) for my 351, and I recall it was not very difficult to turn that motor. Now yes, a 460 is heavier than a 351 (by how much depends upon who you talk to), but I didn't think it would make *THAT* much difference............which leads me to wonder if subtle differences in the stands (ie angle of the pivot, size of the pivot, or tolerances) can make or break the deal.

Snap-On sells a geared stand which is off-the-charts expensive; Sunex sells what appears to be nice equivalent for somewhere around $250. I just can't see buying the Snap-On stand unless you're 1)independently wealthy or 2)a professional engine builder
 

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The real trick is to suspend the engine so that the weight is balanced top and bottom. They spin easy - even on cheap engine stands - if you get everything centered on the crank centerline.
 

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My 1250lbs stand spins my 345/392 IHs over alright. It just came with too-short of a handle..

No worries, that's why Hi-Lift handles are removeable - they make great cheaters.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
glfredrick said:
The real trick is to suspend the engine so that the weight is balanced top and bottom. They spin easy - even on cheap engine stands - if you get everything centered on the crank centerline.
First off, let me say it pisses me off to no end to continuously agree with DRM :flipoff2: David, that was the direction I was going, but was looking for suggestions of easily available arbors and bearings that would fit into pipe with minor machining...

Aloharover-Rover parts around here are held very closely to ensure they are available to put on client's trucks-too valuable.

GLF-I have repeatedly readjusted the position of the engine (it's an aluminum Rover V-8) and have not been able to make it much easier to rotate.

Peace,
PT
 

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I say go for the wheel bearing/spindle modification - just use something cheap and easily availible. I typically search the junk yards with tape measure in hand for projects of that nature.

I get not being able to easily turn an engine - when it is balanced as a bare block it gets top heavy when the heads/intake is intstalled. I usually enlist a helper to rotatate the block, but I have found that getting the center point in the right location makes all the difference in the world.

Just by way of an idea, I wonder if a planetary gear set out of a transmission/transfer case would make a power-adding device to make turning the engine easier? You could install the outer ring on the part that holds the engine, and the inner gear to a stub shaft, then use some sort of crank to turn the inner gear, thus multiplying the torque on the engine-holding shaft itself - making it easier to turn.
 

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I used 4wd hub spindle and stub axle for mine all damaged from being beat on the trail so where scrap otherwise I also used one old unreliable lockout works great holds up 460 ford great just watch out when you release it if you don't have ahold of engine it will spin at least 2 times before it you can stop it
I have had this set up since 85 and its still going strong
 

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Centering the weight is true, even with my snap-on geared stand. If I mount a PSD to it and have it way up high it is nice to work on the topside, but can be a problem when cranking it over to put the bottom side up. You have to be very careful that it is not so far off center that it will flip the standwhen hanging out to the side.
Brian.
 

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D60 said:
The excellent tech content of your post-count-padding aside, I wonder about the various stands. Mine *looks* like a decent stand, which is why I bought it, but it won't turn the 460 to save it's life, perhaps lots of lube as Randy suggests would solve the problem.
Its been quite a while since I used mine, but I really don't remember it (or any other ones I've used for that matter) being that hard to turn over the motor on. :confused: I just don't recall it being that big of a deal.

I don't remember what brand mine is, its blue, could be a Walker? Basic 3 legged stand. I borrowed a 4 leg one time, that was nice, much more stabil.

I have a complete 400 Pontiac sitting on it, next time I'm out there I'll try to spin it.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I picked up a spindle from a wrecked Pontiac Vibe and have stripped it down, now to get some machine work done and I can bolt it right to my stand.

I love having body shops downstairs from the shop :flipoff2: lots of junk to pick through.

Pics to come.

Peace,
PT
 

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glfredrick said:
The real trick is to suspend the engine so that the weight is balanced top and bottom. They spin easy - even on cheap engine stands - if you get everything centered on the crank centerline.
I try to center mine on the center line of the cam instead of the crank.
 

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Ok, aside from the fact that if I had a handful of Playboy bunnies I wouldn't be worrying about engine stands... :flipoff2:

Anyone have pictures of one of these homebrew setups?
 
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