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Discussion Starter #1
I got a bad idea one day..... Oh wait, I mean a good idea one day to take this (then new) JD2 bender of mine and do something with it... I wanted a Hydro setup (who doesn't) but wasn't gonna part with the coin so I figured I'll make my drill do the work. Gotta have a good drill to notch tube so why not bend the tube with it also... After seeing some spare race motors in my bag of archives I split the cases, purged the biggest and smallest gears from it and went to town...

Geeze what do you think I'm stupid !!!! I ran the numbers on my calculator beforehand to make sure it would bend, just didn't have a clue how much to frictional losses would effect the result so I overshot the force to start with.

What I ended with first was my Craftsman drill with (what I measured to be) peak output of 10lbs of torque making 14,000 lbs of force!!!! Now that's some gain!!! Nevermind the calcs just look at the pics you sceptics.

Please keep in mind my goal was:
1. No drillin holes in the garage floor for mounting
2. Bend tube in small garage area
3. Keep the bender portable
4. Very easy to operate

So in the first pic I have three shafts esentially. The first one turned out it had too much reduction for bendin std 1.5" 0.120 (I was bending 1.5" .095 by hand!!) the middle shaft was close to optimal and direct driving the main shaft is good for seating the tube and reversing to repin the die....

..........I just discovered I gotta pay $20.00 to post pics here.... Lovely...

Go here then..... http://community.webshots.com/user/bluzuk

Anyhow, I'll mostly be doing near 1.5" 0.120 give or take so I passed on the granny gearing... I so I swapped the two small gears to optimize the drive a little better then remove the granny gear shaft leaving the two shaft version. Sure bends nice.

A friend gave me a 3 speed tranny with reverse from a riding lawnmower which is obviously all encased and is a cleaner setup but the cycle gears worked so good I'm leavin it alone....
 

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While I understand the design constraints (coin), and applaud the effort (good thinking)... That is STILL some seriously Rube Goldberg lookin chit you got there mang!!!!
 

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I like it! I''m putting together something like it but with chain drive (old 460 timing set). I wheel the same places you do, we gotta do a trip sometime.
 

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you need to change your user name to macgyver
 

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:eek: damn......bending it by hand with that...Shit i use my hands, along with a 8 foot handle...... :rolleyes: must be nice. And yes I am jealous
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
A drill is a motor, has a switch, variable speed and reverse last time I checked. :rolleyes:

Ya Ya, that's exactly what I'm workin on... The current setup isn't for everyone but hay for about $45 bucks what'd you expect.....but if I determine the right motor... Now that's somethin everyone could use...

This works very nicely, I will leave it as is for now. A friend gave me a super nice Baldor motor to use but this will actually be more difficult to implement because of the very high starting tourque requirement etc., but in the end it will be a cleaner setup.

Back to the Zuki conversion...
 

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blueballs said:
A drill is a motor, has a switch, variable speed and reverse last time I checked. :rolleyes:
Actually what I was talking about is a permenent motor so you dont have to hook up the drill to it, you could start the motor and walk away I guess if it takes a long time to bend.
 

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Now you just need to take and hook up your bender to your HF (?) press to automate that too. :evil:

How's it do for bending capacity (how big/thick of tube before it stalls in first gear, or does it) ?

Edit: in the spirit of free, you might want to drill those travelling nuts for a grease fitting to help the threads live a longer life.
In the spirit of not-so-free, Acme threads would be a lot longer lasting for this application, but I respect that you can probably buy a lifetime's supply of fine allthread for what one shaft of Acme and nuts to match, would cost.
 

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ACME threaded rod and nuts would only be about $50 for 1 1/4" rod. Maybe worth it in the long run, maybe not.

What is your gear reduction ratio? And, what size allthread are you using?

Good thinking. Theres more than one way to skin a cat errr.... bend tube.



:)
 

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I like it but how long to bend a 90? Even if it's slow, I bet it's faster than doing it by hand, nice work.
 

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loos like you would use a quick nut (like the ones used in the lathes) for the apron travel to engage or dis-engage the rod from the bender

this because you couldn't use the original pin system
 

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they say necessity is the mother of invention



















I would say "cheep bastards are the fathers of invention" :flipoff2:


what a great idea!!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ACME thread is a more ideal solution and the first thing I thought of...but....

Why don't you tell me the TPI (Thread per inch) of available ACME thread at 1" and tell me what you think I used in my setup....

Ahh, ACME no worky so good Beaver Cleaver..

You would need to have several times the PSI loading to actually justify ACME, even then I wouldn't use it for this... Better to use a Grade 8 and call it a day if you're that worried.

Also adding a zerk fitting to the traveling nuts and using a grease gun is a good idea in general, but wouldn't it be easier and faster to just put a small blop of grease on the threads with your nose picker (thats your finger for you slow types).... It it migrates over the full operating length of the rod in about two passes anyway...

Keeping the tube well lubricated before it enters the followbar is the real concern if one is to maximize bending efficiency...
 

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this was linked off another (newer/more $$) version of this, anyone else have any other progress? Any more updates.. Kinda cool stuff, not sure how i missed this the first go-round..
 
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