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Discussion Starter #1
Need help with this one guys. so any input would help

Engine is a 22RE, I have an Exhaust mainifold leak AGAIN the last two bolts (Closest to the firewall) Are not tightening down. so I have an exhaust leak and the "tick tick tick" is back again

The holes had been helicoiled about 5 years ago, and stripped out about 6 months ago.. the leak came back.

The holes have now been tapped out to the biggest size possible 3/4 " I belive and larger bolts were put in. This held for a couple months and now the tick tick is back again.. and I cannot tighten those bolts any tighter (they just start to free spin).


So How do I fix this problem ? I cannot tap to any bigger of a size.

I was thinking I could maybe WELD a stud into the hole ? But I think that might warp the head. ???

than I was also wondering about this Stuff.

LINK: http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/faststeel.htm

Could I maybe fill the hole with this stuff than thread a stud into it and let it dry ? would it hold up to the heat ?

Any other Idea's Weld the mainifold to the head ? Use two gaskets and lots of RTV Sealent ? Duct tape ? A Nail ?
 

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Maybe the manifold is warped? Have you check to see if the sealing surface is straight?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JackA said:
Maybe the manifold is warped? Have you check to see if the sealing surface is straight?

Manifold is straight. I just cant tighten the bolts down
 

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:mad3: America sucks, I wish we had those cool welders to zap aluminum to cast... :flipoff2:

Remember, SOMETHING is making that sucka work loose/strip out. Do you know what it is? Are the holes stripping themselves after your first torque, or did you retighten them a few times? What did you straightedge the manifold with? And have you tried helicoils since the first time?
 

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Find your local Rep for this stuff http://www.belzona.com/ and contact them. I'll bet they have something for a pernamant fix that will take the heat it'll be exposed to.

I've used thier products before and no matter what application, it does exactly what they say it'll do. IMO....from personal experience, they are the best when it comes to polymarics.

Good luck man!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
trainwreck said:
Are the holes stripping themselves after your first torque, or did you retighten them a few times?
The PO Must have installed the Helicoils, I got my first leak about 1 year ago, replaced the gasket and thats when I noticed I couldn't tourqe the bolts down very tight, Few months later I removed the manifold again and discovered the helicoils, This time I decided to tap the hole to 3/4" But even than I STILL couldn't tighten those last three bolts very tight. I've re-torque them and I still cant get them super tight.

So the problem isn't that the bolts are working themselves loose, the problem is I cant tourqe them down tight.

Im pretty sure there isn't enough meat left for another set of helicoils to go in.

trainwreck said:
What did you straightedge the manifold with? And have you tried helicoils since the first time?
Ummm... ? At first I used my cock but it isn't straight in nature (Points a little to the right), So I used A straight edge ...A level to be exact... :laughing:

Can't seen to find belzona around here ? Any other good products out there that will withstand the heat ?

my thought is to replace these 3 bolts with studs, and somehow GLUE the studs into the Head. ???? Yes No ?
 

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4Hummer said:
Can't seen to find belzona around here ? Any other good products out there that will withstand the heat ?
Belzona Ontario
40 Pippen Road Unit 21
Von Ontario (??), L4K4M6
905-660-1003

:D
 

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Hey don't get all mad Righty :flipoff2: Just trying to help ya think it through.

Some levels are straighter than others. Did you feeler guage (no more cock jokes now!) the manifold in between each port and the straightedge, with the straightedge in an X pattern across both diagonals? And the manifold side of the head? If whatever product you use doesn't work, you may indeed have to replace the head, but it'd sure suck to have the same leak problem on the next one...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
trainwreck said:
Hey don't get all mad Righty :flipoff2: Just trying to help ya think it through.

Some levels are straighter than others. Did you feeler guage (no more cock jokes now!) the manifold in between each port and the straightedge, with the straightedge in an X pattern across both diagonals? And the manifold side of the head? If whatever product you use doesn't work, you may indeed have to replace the head, but it'd sure suck to have the same leak problem on the next one...
No. Ill give this a try next time I have the mainifold off, and Ill keep my zipper zipped.... THANKS FOR THE ADVISE !
 

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I have the best suggestion ever.....









...swap in a 3rz;) I mean serious you can get the motors for sub 1000, unless these fixes are really cheap it might just be a better solution. If the head is shot and you have to put in the work you might as well get a better motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If been looking at the Belzon stuff http://www.belzona.com the Belzona 1111 Super Metal. it's $57.00 bucks a tube... The lady I talked to at head office says this will work, and the rest of the engine will fall apart before this stuff lets go ! She also deals with a 4x4 Group out in the city on Von Ontario that uses the stuff all the time. she says you can weld a cracked head back together with it.(for a quick field repair), also Re-mold broken axle teeth, drive shafts and all sorts of stuff.

The stuff is a workable putty. so the idea will be to smush the Belzona 1111 into the bolt holes, screw in the studs and let it dry. The studs SHOULD never let go again. than secure the manifold with some nuts and lock washers.

So Far This is the best option youve been able to come up with

Unless someone else has an Idea ? Im saving up for an engine swap. so thats not an option right now. Just looking for a quick easy cheap fix.

Check out these repairs I foundhttp://www.belzonarockymountain.com/Metallic Polymers.htm

repair to a drive shaft


think its strong enough ???

On a side Note When I do the repair, I will bring the manifold to a machine shop to have it checked and machined if needed
 

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the way that toyota dealt with this problem was to tap out the hole to 1/8 inch pipe thread and insert a threaded piece of pipe and then retap the inner diameter back to original thread and install some NEW FACTORY STUDS AND BOLTS that will take care of the problem and later on if it strips again you can easy out the piece of pipe with out damageing the head.
 

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A side note on this, you mentioned installing bolts. My experience and other people's successful posts have studs, not bolts. I have helicoiled and installed new studs with thread sealant and used new factory locknuts, after this I never had any problems. If you use these chemicals, let us know how it works out. I've seen posts before where guys use JB Weld to install a stud and never touched it again. Hey if it works what the hell, but I've never done it.
 

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It's true 4Hummer. The rest of the truck will be weaker than the belzona fix. Most the times, when using any of their products, that's the case.

I once used it to fix (from freezing and cracking the case) a leaking cast iron pump (the 200hp variety) while it was running and spewing water. It's fukin amazin shit man. By far the best polymetrics available in the world. :grinpimp:
 

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i agree, what you need is a timesert. involves drilling the hole big enough for a threaded collar to be inserted and pressed in somehow with the factory size bolt and pitch 10x1.25 i think. i had it done to my 3.slow head when i stripped out the threads changing my header gasket. its a steel insert too so its a lot harder to strip than aluminum. also use the spray copperseal on the head, the header, and both sides of the gasket. my headers havent leaked since
 

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yota8485 said:
i agree, what you need is a timesert. involves drilling the hole big enough for a threaded collar to be inserted and pressed in somehow with the factory size bolt and pitch 10x1.25 i think. i had it done to my 3.slow head when i stripped out the threads changing my header gasket. its a steel insert too so its a lot harder to strip than aluminum. also use the spray copperseal on the head, the header, and both sides of the gasket. my headers havent leaked since
i use high temp/red (depending on application) locktite on the timesert (not the stud/bolt) ,makes sure it doesnt move.
do not use copperseal spray on engbuilder type head and exhaust gaskets. thay have a graphite type gasket which seals upon the 1st time it heats up.
 
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