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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I know the new format sucks and change is evil. Anybody got any advice to help me fix my truck. 2005 F015 5.4 V8 with about 171K miles. About a week ago it started running rough on the way home from work. Checked codes and there was a P0172 system too rich pending code. I am not a master mechanic but do know a bit about this engine. Replaced coil packs with known good ones and no change. Then replaced spark plugs with new Motorcraft spark plugs. No change and now throwing a P2196 Bank 1 rich.
At this time at hot idle:
STFTb1 -4% STFTb2 around 0
LTFTb1 -11% LTFTb2 +10

So I clearly have a fueling issue on bank 1. O2 sensors also both reading rich on bank 1 ~.9V. 2005 inparticular had an issue with fuel injectors sticking open (I was on my original injectors) so I ordered up a new (not rebuilt) OEM set of injectors. While I waited on them I had a couple parts on the shelf I decided to throw on to see if anything changed. MAF and Throttle body and no change. I also had a couple new Bosch O2 sensor. I replaced one bank at a time with the new ones and noticed no changed on how it ran or the fuel trims.

New injectors come in the mail and I am sure that is my issue. I put them on and it runs better and not throwing codes but still a bit of a rough idle. I know the 3v 5.4 don't idle all that smooth to begin with but this is a but worse than normal but also not terrible. I reset the fuel trims and now fuel trims at hot idle are:
STFTb1 around -2% STFTb2 around 0
LTFTb1 around -5.5% LTFTb2 +10
So fuel trims got about half way better on bank 1. Now I try to pull some more data to see what is effecting bank 1 and not bank 2 since they do share many of the same sensors. At this time I notice that at hot idle timing advance on bank 1 is +11.3 and bank 2 is 0. Ok so this gives me something to go with. Still no codes and running ok, but not great. I guess the timing on bank 1 is throwing the fuel trims off. When driving the timing advance of each bank mirrors each other more or less. I still have original cam phasers and VCT solenoids in the truck. I am religious about maintenance and when I pulled the valve covers off a couple years ago the top of the heads were in excellent shape with no sludge. Anyways I pulled the VCT solenoid off bank 1 thinking the screens came off and jammed it or the piston was stuck in the bore. Neither was true screens still intact and when I dissembled it the piston came out easily. I put it back on and still have the timing not equal between the banks at idle. I have a OEM VCT solenoid on order and should be here in a few days. Also I confirmed no exhaust manifold cracks on either side so rule out one side missing exhaust before the O2 and then over fueling that side. Compression is excellent 180 or more on each cylinder.
Like I said I am not some master mechanic but I did load up the parts cannon and throw a few at the truck. I haven't tried the new O2 sensors since AFTER the new fuel injectors since they didn't do anything with the old injectors and seemingly the cats/O2 sensors are working. While I wait on the VCT solenoid to come in the mail anybody else have any ideas I should look at besides the VCT solenoid? Any ideas of what other data to check on my scan tool?

I know its long. Thanks for any help and FUCK the new pirate!!!!!1
 

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On a wide open throttle acceleration does it bog down or seem to miss or stumble. I have seen clogged cats cause this along with rich codes.

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Discussion Starter #3
Clogged cats were high on my list in my early trouble shooting. Under full throttle it actually runs good. I think thing the fueling issue is related to the timing issue. Now I just need to figure out why the banks are timed differently. No knocking or anything from cam phasers. Still waiting on the VCT solenoid to come in mail. I am open for ideas though.
 

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Any chain rattle, like on startup? The timing chain tensioner has a thin gasket that blows out. That's usually what starves the top end of oil. When you pull the valve covers to do the vcts pull a couple of cam caps and look for scoring there.

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Sounds like my truck.

Deleted the VCT’s then fought with my tuner to get the right tune file for it to run without going into limp mode. Afterwards, it pinged like a son of a bitch and ran like dog shit.

I threw new COP’s, plugs, exhaust manifolds (one was warped), cats, and O2 sensors at it and it ran significantly better, but still occasionally bogs down and sounds like a can of pennies in the top end, but I digress.

What’s your fuel pressure? Ever replace any of the injectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What’s your fuel pressure? Ever replace any of the injectors?
Fuel pressure is around 40psi. It is a returnless system so the fuel pressure should be shared by both banks which wouldn’t explain why only one bank has an issue. I replaced all 8 injectors with new OEM injectors. It has helped but there is still something wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any chain rattle, like on startup? The timing chain tensioner has a thin gasket that blows out. That's usually what starves the top end of oil. When you pull the valve covers to do the vcts pull a couple of cam caps and look for scoring there.

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Some rattle at startup sometimes when it has been sitting. Maybe last a second or less. I won’t be pulling the valve covers to replace the solenoids. I can replace them from the top with valve covers still on. I still think the fueling issue/semi rough idle Is caused by the timing being off on that bank. Or possibly the fueling issue causes the computer to advance timing on that bank. I don’t know enough to know either way but that is the only difference between the banks and I feel is related to the issue at hand.
 

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Ok thought you were talking about the vcts themselves. Which can also go bad. After replacing the solenoids you can remove or apply 12v to them and see if they move. Just use some jumper wire to the battery. That will narrow it down to the computer making the adjustment or the engine having something wrong that is causing the timing variation bank to bank.

My guess would be your timing chain tensioner gasket is blown out allowing too much slack in the timing chain that's why your seeing 1 bank off of the other. If you decide to go in and fix it if it is the timing do all the guides and the tensioner. Like I said before also if you have to go that far check for scoring on the cam under the caps. If it's bad the damage is already done they were temperamental motors. Honestly surprised you got the mileage out of it that you did.

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea, I was hoping not to have to do the timing on it. I don’t know if I want to mess with it and the truck isn’t worth paying a mechanic to do it so I suppose the fate is up in the air pending the VCT solenoid being the miracle cure.
 

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The answer is a long block or a trip to the junkyard. Stop throwing parts at it. N
 

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Ford updated their control solenoids a few years ago to operate on lower oil pressure, I always pull one or both valve covers and check for cam cap scoring before I try to do any repairs.
 
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