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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone got any info on how this works? What year F350 does it need to come from? I am just curious. I need to be able to stop 40's on D60's front and rear. Any other suggestions. I currently have my stock 84 booster and cyl and I don't think thats gonna cut it.
 

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I here bronco2 or Elcamino brake boosters work great <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0">
 

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I would use a toyota 90-95 v6 master cylinder its a 1" bore and says it on the side or end. The fj80 is a good choice to and I was told by a parts place they have the same part #. I suppose if you needed more than that to try the booster also. I was able to get by with only using the master cylinder. Its seems to be less work as long as it will acomplish what you are after. I am sure the ford setup is no where close to being bolt on? <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Ricktard:
<STRONG>Anyone got any info on how this works? What year F350 does it need to come from? I am just curious. I need to be able to stop 40's on D60's front and rear. Any other suggestions. I currently have my stock 84 booster and cyl and I don't think thats gonna cut it.</STRONG>
The year I took to do a MC swap was 84 F-350. I took the F-350 MC and I made a adapter plate to convert the bolt pattern to the Toy booster. It would lock up 36's with no pedal pumping....Easy fix <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by j4x485:
<STRONG>I would use a toyota 90-95 v6 master cylinder its a 1" bore and says it on the side or end. The fj80 is a good choice to and I was told by a parts place they have the same part #. I suppose if you needed more than that to try the booster also. I was able to get by with only using the master cylinder. Its seems to be less work as long as it will acomplish what you are after. I am sure the ford setup is no where close to being bolt on? <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
A Toyota MC will not be enough to stop 1 ton calipers and drums. You'll need to convert to some other setup. I have the above mentioned 1" bore setup for a Dana 44 front, D44 rear and the brakes work fine for wheeling but are marginal for road use with 38s.
Sean

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: Sean ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well <IMG SRC="smilies/confused.gif" border="0"> . I'm not sure what to use. I guess I could go pick up an F350 one, but I knew I would have to adapt it to fit the Toy booster. Im sure the lines dont just thread in either do they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by Shaker:
<STRONG>The year I took to do a MC swap was 84 F-350. I took the F-350 MC and I made a adapter plate to convert the bolt pattern to the Toy booster. It would lock up 36's with no pedal pumping....Easy fix <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
What axles you running? That sounds great and all, but im sure locking up 36's is a little different than 39.5X15 TSL's on steel beadlocks with Dana 60's? I know this set up is going to be heavy. I can pick up an empty Toy housing and curl it like a dumbbell. It takes 2 two move that dang D60 housing around safely.
 

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A Toyota MC will not be enough to stop 1 ton calipers and drums. You'll need to convert to some other setup. I have the above mentioned 1" bore setup for a Dana 44 front, D44 rear and the brakes work fine for wheeling but are marginal for road use with 38s.
Sean
I wasn't sure if it would work for his application. But I do have that setup on half ton axles and its rocks not sure why yours is not good for the street? Mine works better than the toy stuff. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Ricktard:
<STRONG>What axles you running? That sounds great and all, but im sure locking up 36's is a little different than 39.5X15 TSL's on steel beadlocks with Dana 60's? I know this set up is going to be heavy. I can pick up an empty Toy housing and curl it like a dumbbell. It takes 2 two move that dang D60 housing around safely.</STRONG>
Well since I did this conversion I now run 44 Boggers on the 93 SAS and it will lock the 44 up. So if you got 39's don't sweat it and the F-350 MC is only $34.00 compared to the Toy MC $$$. You do have to make 1 line (reflare 1 end) but you can get all the fittings at the NAPA. Trust me IT WILL WORK <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Ricktard:
<STRONG>What axles you running? That sounds great and all, but im sure locking up 36's is a little different than 39.5X15 TSL's on steel beadlocks with Dana 60's? I know this set up is going to be heavy. I can pick up an empty Toy housing and curl it like a dumbbell. It takes 2 two move that dang D60 housing around safely.</STRONG>
Oh yeah I forgot my 93 SAS has a 60 Front/14 Bolt rear.... <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Originally posted by Shaker:
<STRONG>The year I took to do a MC swap was 84 F-350. I took the F-350 MC and I made a adapter plate to convert the bolt pattern to the Toy booster. It would lock up 36's with no pedal pumping....Easy fix <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Do you have any pics of the adaptor plate that you made and were there any mods done to the booster or rod because of the extra thickness of the adaptor plate?
 

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Originally posted by C.S.F.:
<STRONG>Hey Shaker, lets see some pics of the 93 on 44 boggers.</STRONG>
Ok here you go Don't drool too bad-LOLOLOLOL
<IMG width=494 height=299 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/MiniMonster 1.jpg">
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, you got me on that one. If it can stop those, it'll stop 39.5's. Do you have any pics of the adapter plate or any close ups of the unit put together in the truck? Do I just leave the Toy booster there too?

Also, I just called all my local parts stores. Its only $16 but since I don't have a core its $36 is that about right? They always ask is it 2wd or 4wd and which motor, what would you get?

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: Ricktard ]
 

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Originally posted by Ricktard:
<STRONG>Ok, you got me on that one. If it can stop those, it'll stop 39.5's. Do you have any pics of the adapter plate or any close ups of the unit put together in the truck? Do I just leave the Toy booster there too?

Also, I just called all my local parts stores. Its only $16 but since I don't have a core its $36 is that about right? They always ask is it 2wd or 4wd and which motor, what would you get?

[ 10-26-2001: Message edited by: Ricktard ]</STRONG>
Yes you leave the stock booster there. Tell them it's a 1984 F-350 with 351 4wd. $36 sounds better than what I paid. You do have to make a 1in. spacer to make up the diff. for the plunger. GOOD LUCK
 

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Good, this combo will work great. So what if I have to make an adapter, right now I am going from the small lines of the toyota M/C to the bigger lines of the D60, and I know I have to be losing some volume there. Then I am also having to convert from metric to standard.

Well, now I can run the right sized lines, without having to get metric conversion brass fittings. Damn, I just finished running all new brake lines too. Oh well, gotta learn somehow.
 
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