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Discussion Starter #1
ok, thinkin' about building my own control arms. couple ?'s:

1. are heim joints the best to use?
2. some aftermarket arms (front lca's) are angled - is this the best, any one done this?
3. anybody got measurements, plans, etc. that could help me?
4. i have a 3" lift (over 4" from stock height in reality) does this make a difference in what length i make the arms?
 

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as far as ends... I have seen many problems w/ heims on suspension arms. I would definitely go w/ standard bushings. If not, at least w/ johnny joints.
 

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Now that I think about it, keep 'em straight too. No need to bend them w/ that amount of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks! any idea what lengths to make them?
 

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Do you plan on using the stock mounts or are you going to fab some?

If stock then just pull out the tape measure, if not then you have to start thinking a little more. I use no stock mounts in the back...
 

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something else to think about.

Both BADASSJEEPGUY and Myself have ripped the upper stock control arm mount off the frame. Both on the left rear upper.

You might want to weld the shit out of yours before they bust.

As for the lca in the front. straight.

I wouldn't use Heims. but thats me. they are tooo noisy and I really dont trust them on the front. I have UCA in the rear and one end is heimed, Noisy noisy noisy. Click, click click. I tend to believe the theory of; If its making noise, it is wearing out.
When you make your front lowers, measure the stock ones from the bolt hole to bolt hole then for 4 inches of lift I would add one inch. Of course you will have to make Uppers too, and make them one inch longer too.

Milkman And I went round and round with this last year. <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0">
 

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yes, reinforce the upper rear frame mounts, I ripped both of mine off twice before I cut them off.
 

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These guys did not say, but the reason for the bend in TJ LCAs is to keep from hitting the lower spring perch. A BFH is another popular solution for this problem.

I think in my environmnt where I have a good bit of mud, my Tera poly bushings are best. They let the entire arm pivot in the middle instead of at the ends. I think you can get a little more flex out of an RE style arm, but the joint durability and highway ride (oh, shut up)of the poly Tera was best for me.

-Bart
 

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Originally posted by Skitzo:
<STRONG>ok, thinkin' about building my own control arms. couple ?'s:

1. are heim joints the best to use?
2. some aftermarket arms (front lca's) are angled - is this the best, any one done this?
3. anybody got measurements, plans, etc. that could help me?
4. i have a 3" lift (over 4" from stock height in reality) does this make a difference in what length i make the arms?</STRONG>

I have a XJ, but the front is almost the same setup. I used some aftermarket poly bushing as a reference to make the arm ends. For the lehght, it's easy, the stock control arms are almost parralel to the ground so, just do a traingle with your lift and you'll know the new lenght you know (Or send me the stock length and I'll calculate for you). I do mine ajustable so they will be flexy and I'll be abble to ajust the length for fine tuning. By the way, the angled control arm don't give any drop or somethnig like some try to make us believe, the only advantage they could have is, in some case, a better tire-control arm clearance.

If you have question, just e-mail me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i'm just going to use stock mounts for now. i'll probably replace them early next year.

do i need to add an inch in length for just 3" of lift?

my control arms are already bent from hitting the spring perches - should i bend the ones i make or is there another solution for this?
 

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No. the TERAFLEX 3 inch kit that i bought way back when, the Control arms were the same lenght as the stock ones.

With only 3 inch suspension, (no spacers) you dont need to make them longer. however if you are going to make your own, You might as well make them adjustable.

You will be puttin at least a 1 inch spacer in the front before you know it. The front of a TJ tends to sag and you get that Old time 50's car feeling. Not a great idea with a TJ. you want it to sit level. Much better handling. It helps to elimate bump stear and DW if its level. Even if the front is up a little for a month or so. You should put at least a 3/4 inch spacer up front when you do this.

Of course this is only my 0.02 and I have only changed my suspension about 4 times now. <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cool. thanks for all the help!

one more ? - where's a good place to get johnny joints?
 

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RE has lower Johnny Joint size for $50; Currie has them for $40.

You don't need a bend unless you are going over 7" of lift if ever. I have 6" suspension and don't come close to hitting the mounts w/ the right camber.
 

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Back track on the bend, I forgot that I don't have stock spring perches... I have RE perches, they have much more clearance.
 

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Jimmy,
I was contemplating this awhile ago. But for the correct adjustable joints (Johnny Joints) and the steel, and the TIME it would take, all in all it would be easier, and cheaper to just buy them. Plus more reliable...
It would be cool if you pull it off though. Someday I would like to fab my own triangulated system to lose all that shitty suspension stuff that comes with coil suspensions.
Fawk it, maybe I will just buy a toyota with leafs... haha
<IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

btw I miss my fucking jeep man.. I am having wheeling withdrawls.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #17
joey - yeah, that's the conclusion i'm coming to also. to do it right, it's gonna cost almost as much as the re arms cost. prolly not worth the effort.

dude - told ya you shoulda taken your jeep <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 

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Here is a link and pic of my friend's jeep. He made his own long arm. Tubing: 1.75x.375 wall dom mild steel. 1-1/8 unc threaded rod for adjustment. RE spherical joint and stock rubber bushing at the ends.

Pictures



[ 09-10-2001: Message edited by: JoeH ]
 

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Originally posted by Skitzo:
<STRONG>joey - yeah, that's the conclusion i'm coming to also. to do it right, it's gonna cost almost as much as the re arms cost. prolly not worth the effort.

dude - told ya you shoulda taken your jeep <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>
Yea if you made them non-adjustable, just longer you could save money. It is all about the stupid J-Joints. The teras dont use the johny joint though, the smaller part of the arm is threaded on the outside and the bigger tube just threads over it, there for eliminating the johny joint like currie. But the problem with that is how the hell do you thread a thick steel tube... answer... a big, expensive machine...

I am hopeing to bring the TJ down after christmas break. If not I am definitly going to get in as much wheeling in as possible in december when I am back.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nice long arm fab on that rig!

joe - why don't you go long arm and sell me your tera arms? <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
 
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