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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Only one hole per side lines up, it is the front hole of the factory cross member that lines up, you can see the one bolt in the picture, not two, sorry I miss worded that.
 

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I'll have to open up the model tonight and get some measurements, but take a look at this picture I'm attaching. At the top of the pic, you can see that slot in the frame. Looks like you're pretty close going from the pic you posted.
You can also see other holes in the frame. Might help for some reference.



 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
I'll have to open up the model tonight and get some measurements, but take a look at this picture I'm attaching. At the top of the pic, you can see that slot in the frame. Looks like you're pretty close going from the pic you posted.
You can also see other holes in the frame. Might help for some reference.
Yeah, I have that, I figured its fairly critical where the skid plate goes since it locates the front axle. Also, do you have a dimension of where the frame plates go? By just holding it up there and aligning everything it appears that it goes up tight against the front body mount?
 

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Here are some more pics I just made. And correct, the frame plates go from the front body mount back. Depending on how much weld is on your body mounts, you may want to shave down that front edge a bit. I think on mine we took a little off to get it to sit flush. Hind sight, I would have just allowed a gap there.




 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Here are some more pics I just made. And correct, the frame plates go from the front body mount back.
Awesome Tim! Thank you
 

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And for anyone else wanting to use the parts on a 2500 Suburban the round hole right behind the body mount is the one you want to measure off of for locating the crossmember/skidplate. This hole is the same on the trucks and the suburban frames. On my frame one hole on the passenger side lines up and the drivers side has to be reamed out about .25" to get the 9.625 and the rest have to be drilled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Been busting my rump the last week getting everything removed, cut off and cleaned up. I got the new PSC steering pump and gear box installed while it was easy to get to too. I started grinding all the IFS crap off the frame Saturday morning and by Sunday night I had everything bolted up and welded on. Everything fit well except for the skid plate. I ended up having to notch it because the t-case was hitting it, I assume this is because the 4l80e is shorter than the Allison, it wasn’t that big of a deal and it will work as designed. I also had to slot the holes in the transmission mount further forward by about .25” to get the skid plate exactly where it needed to go. Other than that everything else went smooth with only having to touch up a few spots to get everything to fit in the tabs. Should have it wrapped up and mosty complete by Friday.

Chop Chop


Now for the not so fun part…


That is a lot of grinding, took me about 3 hours!


You can see here where I had to notch out the skid plate for the t-case.


And I clearanced the bottom of the t-case a little just to be safe, it clears by a solid ½” now.

Transmission mount fits nicely and the skid plate is exactly where it needs to go.


Obviously still have a lot of little things to wrap up this week but the majority of the heavy work is done. I made the square steel tubing length at ride height of where the shocks should be, this way I can at least put the tires on it and turn it around so I can start on the back since I STILL don’t have my shocks…





This should be about where the tire will sit at ride height, I am going to have to do quite a bit of trimming to get the 40’s to fit, but it is definitely going to be one low slung SAS!
 

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Wow, this went together like you last build. You don't waste any time, looks great. Those 40's will need a ton of trimming. you were dead on the glass fender idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
Got a little more done last night. I reamed the pitman arm for the drag link, got the ram assist mount welded on to the axle, the steering linkages up where they go, parhard bar on and started to get the new brakes on. I also took some all-around pictures to make everyone happy. I test fit a tire and the 17” wheels clear the brakes without issue, that was a relief!

















 

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straight hustling. does your neighborhood have attached rv garages?
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
straight hustling. does your neighborhood have attached rv garages?
Yep, that is what my "shop" is considered. It is 38' deep, 15'6" wide and has a 15'4" ceiling with a 10'x14' door. Works very well, just wish it was bigger...

Routing the exhaust is going to suck.
Actually I think there is room to run it down the drivers side past the t-case then across the back of the t-case? That's what exhaust shops are for...

Cool build...in for more from a fellow ID guy! :D
Cool, swing by sometime and have a :beer:, I am right off Cloverdale & McMillan.
 

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Routing the exhaust is top 3 reasons the cab is coming off on my truck, I was tired of it being 37 (ok not really that many) pieces of tubing.
 

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Cool, swing by sometime and have a :beer:, I am right off Cloverdale & McMillan.
I'll try to sometime. I'm renting off Locust Grove & McMillian right now, but in the process of buying a home out in Emmett...once all that settles down, maybe I'll try to catch up with ya
 

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How did the factory power steering lines fit with the psc box..? I know mine a few months ago one of em fit perfect, the other was a total bitch to get bent right. That steering box works great, not sure yet am i sold on the price tho.
 

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Progress looks great! Glad everything is fitting together mostly like it did on Tim's truck, aside from the drivetrain differences.

I ran my exhaust up inside the frame down the driver's side and up and over the top of the t-case. I have a bodylift which helped that, but with the HD frame, you've got some extra room too. If I were to do it again, I'd run it underneath the slip yoke housing of the t-case rather than over top of it for more cab clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
How did the factory power steering lines fit with the psc box..? I know mine a few months ago one of em fit perfect, the other was a total bitch to get bent right. That steering box works great, not sure yet am i sold on the price tho.
I had to tweek the high pressure line a little to get it to fit. I hope the steering was worth the money, it was hard to swallow the cost, but I know on my Yukon it wouldn't turn the tires with low pressure.

So I was a little worried yesterday as I was having issues with the steering and drag link fitting. The pitman arm was hitting the frame and the drag link was to long to get the tires and the steering wheel straight. At first I thought that PSC had maybe sent me the wrong steering box as mine and Tim's look different. After speaking with Tim and studying his pictures I figured it out. When Tim said the steering barely fits he wasn't joking... I was test fitting everything with it loose and that was throwing the clearances off, yes, they are that tight! I have the WFO pitman arm that I drilled at 6.25" per Tim and I had to trim the excess material off the end of the pitman arm to get it to not hit the frame at full lock, once I did this and tightened it down it clears the frame now at full lock, barely, but it clears. Issue 1 solved!
On the drag link I had to cut about 3/4" off of each end to shorten it, the adjusting sleeve doesn't allow the ends to be screwed in all the way and was leaving about 3/4" of threads on the ends still exposed with them being screwed in all the way. I could tell that if I cut the ends off I could shorted the overall drag link enough to get the wheel and the tires straight. Issue 2 solved!
I am down to just a few small things like brake lines, mounting the PS reservoir, PS plumbing and paint, then I'll move on to getting everything trimmed up so the tires clear.
 
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