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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all gather up all the cool tide bits ya got on stock zuke axles.

Please help out by saying what/where it needs to go, else ill try to sort it best i can...

Suzuki Axles
-General Information
5x5.5" Bolt circle (same as jeep/ some fords etc)
weights?

-Gear Swap Info

- Birfs

- Bearings

- links

- ?

- ?

Thanks All !
-yag
 

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First – Get rid of the little breather cap and extend ½ or 7/16 fuel line from the dif vent up to high ground. The front I plumbed up near the intake to the air cleaner. The rear I plumbed up by the gas filler neck inside the tub.

WHY – After a day of running through mud (I usually avoid the stuff, but succumbed to boredome), before I got home I could hear the rear getting “crunchy”.
I changed oil in both the front and rear as soon as I got home.
Two weeks later I was installing a lockright in the rear because the mud and grit destroyed the thrust washers behind the spider gears. I could have just replaced the washers, but might as well do a lockright while I’m in there.
 

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If you have an 88.5 Samurai – do the backing plate conversion when you pull the rear axles.
This will prevent you from having to disassemble the brakes and remove your backing plate next time you pull the axles. I bought the SJ410 bearing retainers for about $7.00 each from my local Suzuki dealer.

It is well worth it.

Here’s the web address with more info
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/backplate.htm

Cut and paste into your browser
(I don’t know how to link stuff.)
 

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LOCK RIGHTS
I was apprehensive about installing one in the rear and hurting my on road drive-ability.
I installed one in the front first and have had sore arms ever since.

DO NOT INSTALL ONE IN THE FRONT, UNTIL YOU DO THE REAR.

The install is simple and straightforward. Just make sure you mark everything and use lock tight on the ring gear bolts. Make sure you change the cross pins, the stock one’s won’t last.
The cross pins are supplied, just hidden in the bottom of the box.

The front locker really hurt me off-road without the rear. I would start up something, and the front end would starting “hunting” and got me into some bad situations,

Definitely put one in the rear first.

I love my rear one; on road I hardly notice it. You have to get used to pushing the clutch in when you are doing low speed tight turns or it lunges.
At high speed around curvy roads, it unloads sometimes. When it does, you have to make a small correction in the steering and keep driving. The first couple of the loud “CRACK” is un-nerving. But you get used to it. It will scare your passengers to death, though.

Definitely no substitute for having lockers off-road. I feel crippled driving a rig without them.
Just do the rear first.

I have had no reliability problems with them or birfields using 31’s.
 

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32's

Godzuki.... i agree that you don't want to go over 32's with stock axles..... but ... i am running stock axles with 4.57's and lockers front and rear. i have installed birfield rings and have not had a problem. however i am always kinda nervous when i am wheeling around or i load a tire. my opinion skip building zuk axles and go straight to toy axles or d44's!:D
 

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If you are going to keep the stock axles...the best thing to do early on for the rear axle is the backing plate conversion:

SJ410 backing plates on the SJ413 axles, with holes cut into the factory drum brake backing plate for the bearing to pass thru. theres a write-up somewhere.... this way oyu dont have to dismount the rear brakes to change out an axle and the spare axles are easier to carry becouse you dont need the backing plates.

this will cost under $30 to do, and save ALOT of time if you snap a rear axle on the trail. well worth it.
 

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Thought I'd add for SJ guys that the old LJ gears(if you can find 'em) which are 4.56:1 something will drop right into your SJ housing. Also you can swap Barfields from an '85 Zuk into your SJ410 housings(but not complete axles) for a low buk way to beef:rolleyes: ya right, them up a bit.
 

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howdy,

1985 sj410 e-brake assembly is a bolt on for 1986 1987 1988 and some 1988.5's. use the stock 1985 sj410 e-brake cable.

when installen a long diff brather tube use the hard line plastic yellow line. it is a coil and will allow the diff to flex with out pullen the line off.

1986 thru 1988 sammi have 12 mm flanges, some 1988.5 to. 1989 thru production end use a 14 mm flange.

samurai hubs are the same size as sidekick tracker hubs (check year for fit).

front third of the 1986 threw 1988, and some 1988.5 have 4 pins. 1989 threw production end are 2 pin.

you can run large tyres than 32's on the samurai axles, but you have to modifry them. silver bullet made front axle shafts that use the 26 spline with a toyota birfeild. calmini makes new beefy rear shafts. and the best thing you can do to save your axles is to use the lighter hub fuse.
 

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jimzuki said:
howdy,

1985 sj410 e-brake assembly is a bolt on for 1986 1987 1988 and some 1988.5's. use the stock 1985 sj410 e-brake cable.



SJ410 model designation ended in 1984.

A 1985 is a SJ413(one year only North America)

1986 became Samurai.

Well up here in Hockey land anyways.
 

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If sticking with stock axles don't run bigger than 35's even if beefed, calmini makes alloy rear shafts, they also make front shafts that use a 26 spline inner that uses rear side gears, they are alloy steel 4140, it can also be used with a set of longfields, or stock birfields with birfield rings. Trail Tough also makes custom front axles, they are 26 spline alloy's 4340 ( use rear side gears) and have a custom birfield that is larger than factory, they also make a full floater kit for rear axle. If you will be runing in rocks go 33's max with either of these setups. If you are in the wet slimy climate some have been known to get away with 35's, but in my book that is pushing even the beefier shafts to the MAX..


Scott
 

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E-Z lockers = shit
I broke one in just 2-days of serious wheeling....never again!
I went to mini-spools. I'd rather sacrifice some lose of streering over getting STUCK anyday!
Also, save your money on the stock front end and buy a either one of these:
Spidertrax 44
Trail Tough 44
 

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Discussion Starter #17
dude chill, we all know there are better solutions to the zuke axle problems. This thread is an attempt to collect "stock" axle upgrades and mods for those who wish to do so.... Saying upgrade really doesnt help those needing tech from this thread...

IMHO, for a medium duty DD ish rig the zuke still pack more puch per pound than most others....

-mike
 

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Now you can get smurfields from travis rankin in canada.. both birfs treated and sent to your door for like 70 american.. Oh ya run these with calmini 26 spline inners and it should be a good setup. around 310-320 bucks.. cuts Brent's double tough's cost in half..My 0.02

later, Scott:flipoff2:
 

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zukipuke said:
dude chill, we all know there are better solutions to the zuke axle problems. This thread is an attempt to collect "stock" axle upgrades and mods for those who wish to do so.... Saying upgrade really doesnt help those needing tech from this thread...-mike
I see you point. You seemed to have missed mine, being how the thread was evolving.
My point was to out right save money.
Any one of the venders metioned above pertaining to axle shaft 'up-grade' are only an expensive band aid. I've already have been down that road. It's a fact.
 

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Stock Axle Bearing 86 D driver

86 Daily driver
The rear axle bearing went south, got new ones and they are wider than orginal, do you through away the stock spacer that sets against the the outboard chamfer.
 
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