supazuk94 said:Fill it from the upper hole until it starts to come out, like a diff. You can add more through the shifter hole, however if over filled, it may start to puke out the vent tube when it gets hot
Maybe this will help, there is a "idle up" micro switch, and idle up "VSV" and some other vacuum/electric things that could be your problem. I know if you remove the vacuum hose from the "idle up actuator" The carb goes into warm up high idle instantly. Take a Look at these #7, #19, #22, #26, and #35. I am not sure if the thermal switches control the idle up or not, but they are worth looking at. Then again, with that high of an idle you could just have a major vacuum leak at the carb base, manifold, or PCV valve.
Hope the emission diagrams help
Can look like this:SAMURAI WIKI
General Suzuki Informaion
Samurai LWB dimension info:
Samurai SWB dimension info:
Can just be linked to where it came from-Gearing Thoughts/Concepts..
Q. Which is better axle gearing or a t-case kit ?
A. While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bank for buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. Think about this for a minute... You put on larger tires. Now your pinion becomes TWICE as hard to turn. This puts TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, the transfer case mounts, the transfer case itself, and the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. "GEE I wonder why I need these big honkin' driveshafts now"...or "why do my bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side"... or the mounting boss breaks off of the transfer case....or the short arm side bracket starts tearing off of the frame rail. "Gosh - maybe it is because I gave my transfer case almost 3 times as much power by putting in 6:1's and now it wants to do flip flops in its mounts because I must have FORGOT to change the ring and pinions relative to my tire size - which would have made the driveshaft easy to turn again and takes all of the strain off of these parts - like it was made from the factory when the little tires were on it." It is a MISTAKE to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor...reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle. -Brent (Trail Tough Products)
can be shortened to:BRAKES
rear disk for sami axles using nissan calipers and pics of firbird master install
MASTER CYLINDER UPGRADES
Mazda 929 and Suburu swaps:
are spelled AISIN and pulleys :flipoff2:... ASIN ... pullys ...
Key Search Words: Stock 1991 Suzuki zuke zook zooki Samurai sammy front driveshaft drive shaft measurement length including slip yoke ....All of these are only to be considered "Ball Park" - UZi9mm
All figures include both u-joints and flanges, flange mounting surface to flange mounting surface unless stated otherwise.
-Fully collapsed compressed: 27.25"
-Fully extended, with the slip yoke and drive shaft physically touching but
NO spline engagement: 31.25"
1" of splined engagement: 30"
2" of splined engagement: 29"
3" of splined engagement: 28"
3.75" of splined engagement is maximum engagement (now back at full compression)
The slip yoke has aproximately .25" inside it's end that has a non splined section. (the outside of this area is the groove where the stock rubber dust boot attaches)
The drive shaft splined section itself, has a smooth shoulder at it's base of about .50", where it meets the face of the tube. (so total splined section is 3.75" , total length of the "stub" inc. shoulder and splines is aprox. 4.25")
Drive shaft without slip yoke, but with flange and u-joint, from spline face to flange mounting surface: 24"
Drive shaft alone with no flange or u-joint, splined face to yoke ends: 23.25"
Slip yoke alone without flange or u-joint, from dust boot end face to yoke ends : 6.25"
Outside width : 2.75"
Inside width : 1 & 5/8th's
Thickness : .50"
Length : 2"
Flange mounting surface thickness: 5/16th's
Flange ("large" style, late model Samurai) mounting holes centre to centre : 60mm x 60mm Diagonally: 85mm
Tube diameter: 2"