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There are many threads here about setting pinion angle and the key to it is;
-If no c/v angles should be parallel.
-If using a c/v pinion should point to the t-case.
Heres a couple pics to help understand it. They are on the Tom Woods site.



 

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more weight chart stuff

the weight chart in the faq's is great info. i just weighed a few items in the garage and have a few to add. the chart shows 250# for the 1.6. i think this is for the 16 valve engine.
8v 1.6 tracker/sidekick motor:bare-121#
- fully dressed with flywheel, intake, injector, pulleys, no starter-176#
tracker/kick 5 speed-68#
tracker/kick t-case with 4.24 gears-52#
ax-15 trans-94#(not my spec)
nv 3550 trans-97#(not my spec)
feel free to add this to faq post if desired.
 

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power steering

How to add a quick power steering set up to your rig without robbing engine power..
I have a 88 sammi,with a waggy power steering box(can use a toyota IFS box also),bolt a electric powersteering pump from a 88-91 subaru XT6 to the inner fender,hook up the pressure and the return line,wire it up to a switch inside the vehicle and Bam! your done..works like a champ.One finger steering.pumps runs somewere in the $250.00 range (new).Hope this helps,Jim
 

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There are 2 plugs. 1 on the very bottom to drain it, and one on the side of the case to fill it. Only holds 1 quart.
supazuk94 said:
Fill it from the upper hole until it starts to come out, like a diff. You can add more through the shifter hole, however if over filled, it may start to puke out the vent tube when it gets hot

Here - labeled it for ya
right there, that big plug right in the middle.
 

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ZUK Herder
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Discussion Starter #52
great info
Maybe this will help, there is a "idle up" micro switch, and idle up "VSV" and some other vacuum/electric things that could be your problem. I know if you remove the vacuum hose from the "idle up actuator" The carb goes into warm up high idle instantly. Take a Look at these #7, #19, #22, #26, and #35. I am not sure if the thermal switches control the idle up or not, but they are worth looking at. Then again, with that high of an idle you could just have a major vacuum leak at the carb base, manifold, or PCV valve.

Hope the emission diagrams help
--Sky

More here
http://www.scribd.com/doc/20829612/Section-5-Emission-Control-System-Part-1
 

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I think condensing what is already there will make it easier start to see what is missing. All of this:

Can look like this:

General Suzuki Information

Wikipedia - Suzuki Samurai

izook history

Samurai specs

LWB Samurai dimensions

SWB Samurai dimensions

[edit] I just checked and the wikipedia link seems to be the only one of those that actually work[/edit]

All of this:

-Gearing Thoughts/Concepts..
Q. Which is better axle gearing or a t-case kit ?
A. While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bank for buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. Think about this for a minute... You put on larger tires. Now your pinion becomes TWICE as hard to turn. This puts TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, the transfer case mounts, the transfer case itself, and the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. "GEE I wonder why I need these big honkin' driveshafts now"...or "why do my bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side"... or the mounting boss breaks off of the transfer case....or the short arm side bracket starts tearing off of the frame rail. "Gosh - maybe it is because I gave my transfer case almost 3 times as much power by putting in 6:1's and now it wants to do flip flops in its mounts because I must have FORGOT to change the ring and pinions relative to my tire size - which would have made the driveshaft easy to turn again and takes all of the strain off of these parts - like it was made from the factory when the little tires were on it." It is a MISTAKE to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor...reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle. -Brent (Trail Tough Products)
Can just be linked to where it came from

Transfer case gears or axle gears? by Trail Tough

All of the links that are just a cut and paste of a link with a title above it can become one, so the title of the thread or website or whatever is the link itself. Same with the untitled ones. No need for all the http//:www.232432/131131blahblah.com This would reduce the length of the FAQ and still retain all the links and info

another example:

can be shortened to:

BRAKES

ZUK rear disks with nissan calipers and Firebird master

Master cylinder help

Mazda 929 Brake Master Cylinder Upgrade - BOLT ON!

Subaru master cylinder how to


Most importantly

... ASIN ... pullys ...
are spelled AISIN and pulleys :flipoff2:

Later posts can be linked back to the first post

Engine specs and more

Torque specs

Capacities

Samurai SJ413 transmission and transfer case gear ratios

Samurai transfer case dimensions

Engine, axle, transmission, and transfer case WEIGHTS


Instead of cutting and pasting posts from other threads, just ad a link to them in the first post.

Examples:

post 51 could be linked from the original thread and added to the first post here

Samurai fuel line ID

as could post 52

Emissions / vacuum help

ok thats enough for now, i am tired, some actual new things to ad later :)

There always seems to be alternator questions, (plus it starts with an 'A' :D ), so here are a few links to start

GM alternator install

Mad Electrical - Alternator and electrical tech

This is a pretty new thread but the 4th post has some great info already Suzuki alternator info

what number alternator do I get?

Trail Tough GM alternator bracket, plus how to wire it
Not really sure what to categorize these as, but they are great threads for the newbies and old timers alike. There is definitely some overlap with a few, maybe they all shouldn't be included, but it is another starting point

*FAQ* PBB ZUK BUILD table of contents--HELP BUILD!
(I know thats already in the FAQ, but seems like it could go with the rest of these)

Pic's of zuk's

how long are you aka strech post your pics

The "Cleanest" Samurai out there?

Post a pic of your rig?

lets see ur flex!!

post pics of your favorite zuki's

I am partial to this thread :D, and would like to see it in the FAQ/Bible too

The tube door / half door thread

A few more links for the gearing section

Gear Ratio Calculator

Sidekick gear ratios

Tracker and Sidekick gear ratios

I'd also like to know what the actual driven/drive ratios are for all the different t-case gear sets, not just the 2XX% reduction in low, 20% in hi crap. Anybody counted teeth? Probably have to call some vendors to get the numbers
and a few good links for steering

What are you running for steering??

Toyota hydro assist tech (courtesy of the Toyota FAQ)

Full Hydraulic Steering from Performance Off-Road Systems By BillaVista

Howe power steering bleeding instructions
 

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Suzuki Driveshafts
Key Search Words: Stock 1991 Suzuki zuke zook zooki Samurai sammy front driveshaft drive shaft measurement length including slip yoke ....All of these are only to be considered "Ball Park" - UZi9mm

All figures include both u-joints and flanges, flange mounting surface to flange mounting surface unless stated otherwise.

-Fully collapsed compressed: 27.25"
-Fully extended, with the slip yoke and drive shaft physically touching but
NO spline engagement: 31.25"
1" of splined engagement: 30"
2" of splined engagement: 29"
3" of splined engagement: 28"
3.75" of splined engagement is maximum engagement (now back at full compression)

Note:
The slip yoke has aproximately .25" inside it's end that has a non splined section. (the outside of this area is the groove where the stock rubber dust boot attaches)

The drive shaft splined section itself, has a smooth shoulder at it's base of about .50", where it meets the face of the tube. (so total splined section is 3.75" , total length of the "stub" inc. shoulder and splines is aprox. 4.25")

Drive shaft without slip yoke, but with flange and u-joint, from spline face to flange mounting surface: 24"

Drive shaft alone with no flange or u-joint, splined face to yoke ends: 23.25"

Slip yoke alone without flange or u-joint, from dust boot end face to yoke ends : 6.25"

Yoke ears
Outside width : 2.75"
Inside width : 1 & 5/8th's
Thickness : .50"
Length : 2"
Flange mounting surface thickness: 5/16th's
Flange ("large" style, late model Samurai) mounting holes centre to centre : 60mm x 60mm Diagonally: 85mm
Tube diameter: 2"
.
 

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*FAQ* The Official PBB Suzuki BIBLE-updated MAY 02 2011

Well I have been on here for a bajillion years, and think I found my first useful bit of knowledge to share here. One of the biggest questions I hear from two liter people is how to make the tach work with the old cars. Well its pretty cheap and simply, just need some soldering skills. All you have to do is open the tach up and replace a resistor with the right value, and blamo! Working tach. See below...

This first picture show the critter you need to replace



And replace it with a 24K ohm resistor



And here is a crappy picture I took with just the marker lights on, it works all the way to 6500 rpm.



So there you go, any questions just ask.

Matt
 

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Just a lil tidbit I have to throw in. 1996-2000 honda civic front brake hoses for soa lift or 3-4" lift, they are about 6-7" longer than factory and bolt right up, you need to modify the factory frame mount for the female hose end a lil to get the clip in. 1988-1995 may fit too, I haven't checked yet, 1992-1995 should be the same.
 

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My Birfields needed replacing on my 85 which of course is a narrower diff width,As i could not find replacements in that width, i bought new axles in the wider width (inner and outers )which comes with new birfields.I replaced the new inner which is where the extra length was added and installed my inners which were fine.
 

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I cut and pasted the first post but there is more with pics in the thread:

https://forum.suzukiclubuk.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=2801

Quick linksFAQLoginRegisterSCUK Main Site
Suzuki Club UKHome of all things Suzuki 4x4Skip to content
Forum HomeMaintenance and Tech (Click here for stickies)SJ series Transmission, Axles, Brakes, wheels and tyres.

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SJ axle info

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13 posts 1
User avatarScottieJ
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SJ axle info
Post by ScottieJ » Fri Feb 25, 2011 1:27 pm

Thought I'd start a post detailing lots of info about and the specs of suzuki axles, I will be adding to it in time but if you have anything you would like to add please post it up :mrgreen: (I'm sure Darrell will have some useful diagrams ;) )

Pretty much all external components on SJ axles are interchangable i.e. Stub axles, hubs, swivels, seals, bearings, freewheeling hubs. Internal components differ between the 410/413 and Samurai axles i.e. diffs, axle shafts and CV's are not always interchangable.

Ratios & diff interchangability

410= 4.11:1 (37crown wheel > 9pinion)
LJ 80= 4.56:1
Front are 22spline and rears are 26spline.
410 and lj80 diffs are direct swaps although on late SJ410's the bolt spacing on the diff flanges for the props is different
LJ80s and skinny prop SJ410s (upto 84) are 50mmx50mm with 8mm bolts
Later fat prop (85 onwards) SJ410s are 56x56mm with 8mm bolts

413= 3.909:1 (43 crown wheel > 11pinion)
Samurai= 3.727:1 (41 crownwheel > 11 pinion)
Front are 22spline and rears are 26spline.
413 and Samurai diffs are direct swaps Although some Samurai's built from 1990 onwards have a larger bolt spacing on the diff flanges.
up to 89 56x56mm with 8mm bolts
Later models from around 94 onwards are 60x60mm with 10mm bolts

SJ410 & lj80 diffs are smaller than SJ413& Samurai diffs so you cannot swap them.

You can fit Vitara and early GV FRONT ring and pinions into 413 and samurai diffs, the available ratios are as follows.
Vitara
swb manual=5.125:1 unless it's a later model 4u/4u2 etc then they have 4.875:1
auto=4.6:1 or 4.3:1 depending on transmission.
commercial & lwb= 4.88:1
Grand Vitara (to the best of my knowledge)
98-05 G16 manual and Auto= 5.125:1
98-05 J20a manual= 4.875:1 auto= 4.875:1 or 5.125:1
98-05 H25a manual= 4.3:1 auto= 4.875:1
01-03 XL7 H27a manual= 4.3:1 auto= 5.125
03-05 XL7 H27a manual= 4.3:1 auto= 4.3:1
98-00 RF 2.0 diesel manual= 4.3:1 auto= 4.3:1
00-03 RHZ 2.0 diesel manual= 3.909:1 auto= 4.3:1
04-05 RHW 2.0 diesel manual= 3.909:1 auto= 4.3:1

Front 22spline Vitara diffs are a direct bolt into Samurai/413 axles but if it is an alloy diff it is best to swap the ring and pinion into a steel Samurai/413 diff. Rear diffs are larger and do not fit Samurai/413 axles.

Axle widths
(all dimensions are wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface)

Samurai front= 1333.5mm (52.5") rear=1326mm (52.2")
410/413 front= 1232mm (48.5") rear=1224mm (48.2")
Jimny front= 1355 mm Rear= 1365 mm
Spring perch spacing width
(spring locating hole centre to centre)
Samurai front=720mm(28.34") rear= 950mm(37.4")
410/413 front=640mm(25.2") rear=870mm(34.25")

To fit samurai axles onto a 410/413
Each front & rear perch needs to be moved 40mm inwards.

Bearings & Seals

King pin bearings
15x42x14.25 metric taper roller bearing 30302
392_39_7.jpg
Front wheel bearings
LM 3008 49 inner/LM 3008 11 outer
41 x 68 x 17.5mm
Seal should come in the bearing kit fram any motor factor
if desperate could try a 50x68x7mm oil seal but it doesnt have the extra lip to keep the crap out.
392_2_23.jpg
392_3_3.jpg
Rear wheel bearings
Suzuki part numbers
Bearing 09269-35009 (bearing code DG357222DW)
Bearing retainer 43485-73000
Oil seal 09283-48007
Spacer (not needed if bearing above is used) 43429-77201

From bearing supplier
Bearing 6207-2RS 35x72x17mm (you will need a 4mm spacer ^^^^)
Oil seal is 48x62x8mm

From motor factors:
SKF Kit = VKBA1972

Front halfshaft oil seal
26x38x8mm

knuckle seals, main stealer part numbers
# 45623-80001] 4x Oil Seal Retainers.
# [09285-00002] 2x Oil Seals.
# [45600-82810] 2x Felts (come in pairs).
# [45625-63001] 4x Oil Seal Covers.

Kits available from singapore on ebay
http://stores.ebay.com/mantra4x4/Axle-P ... 34.c0.m322" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Other front axle info, useful diagrams

Axle Shaft Diameter
Front: 23.87mm (.940")
Rear: 26.67mm (1.05")
Axle Tube Material: HREW
Diameter:65mm (2.56")
Wall Thickness: 3mm (.120")
axle info.JPG
axle info.JPG (70.01 KiB) Viewed 51117 times
392_diag_1.jpg
Zuki Build
 
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