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I feel like this comes up a lot, so why not compile all the info into one thread that's easy to read and search.

Key words: Tcase, transfer case, low gear, gear set, 4.16:1, 4.9:1, 5.14:1, 6.4:1, 6,5:1, 4.16s, 4.9s, 5.14s, 6.4s, 6.5s

Copy and past this format and enter your info. Feel free to make multiple posts of different setups you've had.

You can also fill out the format and ask what gears others think would work best.

Basic description of rig:

Engine:

Transmission:

Transfer case(s):

R&P:

tire size:

Type of wheelin you do:

How you like it on the highway:

How you like it offroad:

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ill go first

Basic description of rig: Full body, no bumpers or sliders

Engine: 1.3

Transmission: sami 5spd

Transfer case(s): 6.4

R&P: 4.37s

Tire size: 33s

Type of wheelin you do: rock crawling and snow

How you like it on the highway: was just about right for back roads, never had it on a highway.

How you like it offroad: It worked decent, i sometimes wished for lower, but then also needed an in between gear for between obstacles. Also, only having a very low reverse kinda sucked.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: 6.4s no doubt, 5.29s or 5.71s if i went to 35s would have probably worked well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Basic description of rig: cut up body with some minimal tube work, stretched to 105"

Engine: 1.6 8v

Transmission: sami 5spd

Transfer case(s): dual toyota 2.28x4.7(10.7)

R&P: 4.10

tire size: 37s and 39s

Type of wheelin you do: hardcore rock crawling and snow

How you like it on the highway: High range was completely useless. Using the front case in low was about perfect for back roads. Never had it on the highway.

How you like it offroad: Loved it, a gear for everything. Low low you could idle up anything. The added tq of the 1.6 helped a ton also.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: Same for that setup, lower r&p maybe just to take some stress off the tcases.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Basic description of rig: ultra light buggy (still collecting parts)

Engine: 1.0 3cyl

Transmission: 3spd auto

Transfer case(s): stock sami, what gears should i get? I'm thinking just jump straight to 6.4s but i wonder if that will be mega overkill considering the weight. I also don't want to get caught between low and high. where a 4xx:1 would put 3rd gear close to 1st gear high.

R&P: 3.73s or possibly 4.63? (stock 3spd tracker r&p)

tire size: ~31-32s, possibly some much bigger tires for snow.

Type of wheelin you do: I want to use it for everything, but mostly rock crawling.

How you like it on the highway: I may try to sneak it on back roads and fire roads, so the ability to go ~45 would be nice.

How you like it off road: I want to be able to crawl slow, but also not push through the brakes. I know what the 6.4s are like in a sami with a manual, but this is a totally different beast.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: :flipoff2:
 

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Basic description of rig: Full bodied exo'd toyota embarrassing slice of recycled Japanese import. YJs, built (loooool) stock axles, 1310 driveshafts, bottle opener in reach of the driver, fire extinguisher onboard. I think about an 88-90" wheelbase

Engine: 1.6 16v with a header and maybe a cam. I remember the PO saying something about it, but I also remember him not being sure about it. Sumbitch screams but it smokes quite a bit after its last flop :(, albeit not consistently.

Transmission: Leaky Samurai trans with a bad input shaft and 2 broken bell housing bolts. Started pulling it today to fix the bolts.

Transfer case(s): It has 2. One with a bad front output shaft bearing, 6.5:1 gears and a modified EOS cradle (it cracked like a MOFO) with solid poly mounts (probably why it cracked) and super duper reinforced frame mounts (trail tough and my own design.) Second case is a spare on the floor in my shop. No it is not for sale :flipoff2:

R&P:Stock front, rear is stock ratio but modified with 3-5 chipped teeth. Trail Tough mini spool rear, Spartan front. Tires are cheaper than smiles.

tire size: 32 according to the sidewall. I break shit now, I literally can't afford to make it worse.

Type of wheelin you do: Southeast rocks/hills/trees. If you have never been down here, the best way to describe it is like a scaled down version of a rock bouncer comp. Lots of gas pedal, lots of "bumping" it over obstacles, occasional air time, but minimal inbreeding for me personally. I just don't really want kids.

How you like it on the highway: It is good up to about 60. It has plenty of power across the speed range, I just think that I am getting high in RPMs at about that speed. I do not have a working tach so I cannot verify that feeling.

How you like it offload: It is perfect and I am scared to change anything. This rig has a bad habit of hanging with/embarrassing shit that costs 10x as much. I really want to stretch it like 18", yotas, 37's etc, but it works so great now that I almost just want to leave it alone. If it weren't for the tendency to roll backwards/forwards, I would't even consider it.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy:
Same 100%



To the future reader, it's 1045 on saturday night and the whiskey is going down smoothly. Sorry for the grammatical issues. #makepirate4x4greatagain
 

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Basic description of rig: 86 Sami, 3-link front and rear, toy axles, internal cage, and most of the basic stuff for a wheeling rig.

Engine: 1.6 16v

Transmission: Sami 5spd

Transfer case(s): Sami with 6.5:1 gears

R&P: 5.29 f&r with a spool in the rear and Detroit in the front.

tire size: q78-16 TSL's

Type of wheelin you do: Mostly clay hills and dirt with some rocks occasionally

How you like it on the highway: Sucks, full hydro and at 55 mph I'm running 3200 rpm.

How you like it offroad: Amazing so far, but I haven't had much time to wheel it lately.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: I would probably go with a 4.9 gear set or swap the trans t-case out for a 4 spd auto and D300 with 4:1 gears.
 

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Basic description of rig: 88 Samurai, toy axles, shackle reversal, 38.5 boggers, toy rear leafs in back and RE 1.5” yj leafs up front. Yota ifs steering box with tc pump. 1310 driveshafts.

Engine: rebuilt 1.3 with crappy Weber and header/flowmaster

Transmission: stock 5spd

Transfer case(s): 6.5 trail gear gears installed

R&P: 5.29 yota axles

tire size: 38.5x13.50r15 Boggers

Type of wheelin you do: trail/mud

How you like it on the highway: n/a

How you like it offroad: works okay I guess

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: I would not have geared the case so low. I think the 4.9 tcase Gear would have been better for the southeast wheeling I do, mainly dirt/mud. But for rocks and obstacles the 6.5 case is where it’s at.
 

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Basic description of rig: Samurai, diesel swapped, stretched 18", steel flatbed, lot heavier than stock.

Engine: 1.9 TDI

Transmission: Geo tracker 5 speed

Transfer case(s): Geo tracker, twin sticks, 4.24 gears, slip yoke eliminators.

R&P: 3.73

tire size: 33x12.5x15, worn out, actual measurement currently, 31.25"

Type of wheelin you do: Rocks, mild trails, Moab, other Utah wheeling, etc.

How you like it on the highway: high range is too high with the 3.73's and 33's, I went with the tracker tcase to try to lower my high range RPM's at high way speeds, but it's just quite a bit too low.

How you like it offroad: Does good offroad, climbs easily without much if any throttle.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: I'm planning on swapping in 5.13 gears in the very near future, in order to be able to daily it a little better.
 

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Basic description of rig: '83 SJ410T, 4 link/radius arm 100" WB, Suzuki based axles, too heavy.

Engine:G16B

Transmission:AW-4

Transfer case(s): 6.4TT gears, TT Twisted T shift rails

R&P: 5.13 (more on that in a minute)

tire size:35

Type of wheelin you do: Technical trails

How you like it on the highway: It's a tiny bit too low geared - 3700rpm at 62MPH

How you like it offroad: Too low.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: I'd stay with the 6.4's, but run taller R&P. I'm swapping in 4.6 now which will drop me to 3330 on the highway and loosen the converter up off road a little. At the moment the converter basically won't slip off road.

Photo of vehicle for reference.



Currently also taking weight out and lowering it.
 

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I would buy the $200 hoopty sidekick from 2bb and install the 2.0 in my/your samurai with your 3spd. Then with all the extra power and the auto realize you dont really need a standard low range and just run the trackick case that came with it combined with 3.0 gears
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I would buy the $200 hoopty sidekick from 2bb and install the 2.0 in my/your samurai with your 3spd. Then with all the extra power and the auto realize you dont really need a standard low range and just run the trackick case that came with it combined with 3.0 gears
All sounds good except I don't have a Sami :confused: :flipoff2: it's a soft top 2 door tracker factory 8v/3apd/4x4

I don't see the 3.0 gears being worth the money, just not enough of a jump. I think the Sami case with 4.16 or 4.9s would be sweet. I don't need to go more the 45 mph, so 1.6 high with 4.63s or 5.13s and 31-32s should be good, then low range should be pretty good with the auto and light weight. The only problem is Sami cases are getting hard to find. I had 2 stashed for a reason, but they're gone :(

Might just do the 4.24s and the 5.13s since they're drop in. Or a doubler to a Toyota case then I'd have 1.8/2.28/4.1 with the ability to gear either case.
 

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Basic description of rig: Stockish Samurai on YJ's springs SPUA

Engine: 1.6 16v

Transmission: Stock Samurai 5 spd

Transfer case(s): 6.5:1

R&P: Stock 3.73

tire size: 34" LTB's

Type of wheelin you do: Typical east coast trails

How you like it on the highway: Great

How you like it offroad: Great

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: Same 6.5:1
 

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Basic description of rig: Stock '87 Samurai with SPOA and TC Gears

Engine: Stock

Transmission: Stock

Transfer case(s): 5.14:1 Calmini

R&P: Stock

tire size: 33x10.50

Type of wheelin you do: trails, rocks

How you like it on the highway: In high range, speedo is almost right on

How you like it offroad: low range is low.

If you had to do it again whats gears would you buy: Only con I have with these TC gears is that they are noisy. They whine. It's a common issue with Calmini at least it was 15 years ago when I got them.
 

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That doesn't make any sense - transfer case gears have no effect on the speedometer accuracy, that's a function of axle gears and tire diameter.
 

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That doesn't make any sense - transfer case gears have no effect on the speedometer accuracy, that's a function of axle gears and tire diameter.
The lower the t case gears the lower the high range, so yes it would effect your speedometer the same way different gears in the axle will.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The lower the t case gears the lower the high range, so yes it would effect your speedometer the same way different gears in the axle will.
Except that the speedo reads off the rear out put, so any gear change before that won't affect it, only after.
 

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That doesn't make any sense - transfer case gears have no effect on the speedometer accuracy, that's a function of axle gears and tire diameter.
I don't know then but I have a GPS installed and when in high range, it's pretty accurate. I guess I just figured that lowering the TC gearing slightly (18%) in high range and adding tire diameter just happened to even out.
 

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The speedometer doesn’t know what gear you are in. Just the same way the speedo doesn’t change its reading when you change gears in the gearbox or change ranges in the transfer case, it doesn’t know that there are reduction gears in the transfer case. It took me a while to work this out myself. Yes, it corrects revs at road speed, but NOT the speedometer, because it’s downstream of the reduction.
 

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The speedometer doesn’t know what gear you are in. Just the same way the speedo doesn’t change its reading when you change gears in the gearbox or change ranges in the transfer case, it doesn’t know that there are reduction gears in the transfer case. It took me a while to work this out myself. Yes, it corrects revs at road speed, but NOT the speedometer, because it’s downstream of the reduction.
So where is the speed sensor and what does it use to pick up the speed? I would think it measures the rotation of the drive system either in the tranny or transfer case or tire rotation in the axle. I doubt it's in the axle as I don't see anything there. My thought was if it's using rotation somewhere within the driveline, a larger tire would cause the speedo to read low but that is offset by a lower gearing. This is an interesting topic as I am learning something new.
 
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