Pirate 4x4 banner

21 - 40 of 178 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,843 Posts
so what 205 are you running? round chev? If I get ambitious tonight I'll go measure my ford05.
The adapter sure don't look like a figure 8:homer:

Ya, he lucked out and found a 205 off a turbo 400:smokin:
I can find the SM465 and turbo 350 versions, but the turbo 400 32 spline has been elusive.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
so what 205 are you running? round chev? If I get ambitious tonight I'll go measure my ford05.
Yes, GM round pattern. If you feel you must, or just want to know, go ahead and measure it... the measurement is not important to me. If it was, I'd just measure the Ford 205 sitting right next to the round pattern GM 205 on my garage floor. :flipoff2:

The adapter sure don't look like a figure 8:homer:

Ya, he lucked out and found a 205 off a turbo 400:smokin:
I can find the SM465 and turbo 350 versions, but the turbo 400 32 spline has been elusive.
Craig, don't automatically dismiss the ones behind the SM465's... some of the later 465's had a 32-spline output. But, I believe the 205's behind those were the long input 32-spline.

Yes, I did get lucky on that deal. While it is a 32-spline input, it is the long input instead of the shorty. But at least the bearing bore is the right size so I don't have to machine the case.:smokin: Since it only cost me $50 for the round GM 205 (sorry, just had to throw that in there again), I didn't feel bad at all about spending another $100 for the shorty input gear.
I also got lucky on the GM 203... it also came out from behind a TH400 and is 32-spline input. And it only cost me $25 (there I go again:flipoff2: ). So now I have 32-spline shafts on the T19/203, 203/205, front & rear 205 outputs. :smokin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,205 Posts
The adapter sure don't look like a figure 8:homer:

Ya, he lucked out and found a 205 off a turbo 400:smokin:
I can find the SM465 and turbo 350 versions, but the turbo 400 32 spline has been elusive.

Cause ford 205's don't have round patterns. :rolleyes:


I didn't go through all his pages to figure out what case.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Cause ford 205's don't have round patterns. :rolleyes:...
But what side is the shift linkage on? ... and what side is the notch on for the shift linkage in my pic?

[foghorn leghorn voice]I say, pay attention son![/foghorn leghorn voice]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Nothing really accomplished tonight... just spent about an hour or so flat on my back under the pig staring at stuff. Still trying to figure out how I want to tackle the crossmembers. Also spent some more time staring at the sheet metal trying to decide where to cut and how much floor pan to cut out.

I've also been wondering how my triple stick shifter is going to fit... wondering if I'd have to cut and modify the trans tunnel to fit it in. So, I bolted it on to find out. Fits pretty damn slick... I'm only going to have to modify the trans tunnel cover. I am going to have to modify the range box shifter since it's position interferes with the trans shifter in 4th and reverse. I either need to shorten the horizontal offset or adjust and add a bend or two to it. You can see in the last pic that it is directly in line with the trans stick in reverse.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
Ordered some polyurethane pucks tonight.... I think I have a plan for the crossmember coming together.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Got the 203/205 adapter mount finished up last night (unless I have to tweak it a little to make everything fit/work). Now I need to build the crossmember itself. I'm trying to decide how I want to attach the crossmember to the frame and I think I'm going to drill holes horizontally through the frame rails, sleeve them to prevent crushing and through bolt the crossmember to the frame. Unless someone can convince me there is a better way.....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,843 Posts
Couple sheet metal screws is all you need. :homer:
I like the idea of bolting the cross member to the frame and putting the bushings under the doubler. IMHO less movement. The only problem with sleeve's is you need to drill the frame, and that takes a lot longer then welding a chunk of angle iron on there.
What size sleeve are you thinking?

So much for talking you out of an hour or two of drilling:evil:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Couple sheet metal screws is all you need. :homer:
I like the idea of bolting the cross member to the frame and putting the bushings under the doubler. IMHO less movement. The only problem with sleeve's is you need to drill the frame, and that takes a lot longer then welding a chunk of angle iron on there.
What size sleeve are you thinking?

So much for talking you out of an hour or two of drilling:evil:
Ok... I did say drill, but thats not how I'd likely make the holes. Trace a nice circle on the side of frame with a paint pen and fire up the plasma. :flipoff2:

To make sure you are not confusing what I'm talking about. The crossmember will be bolted to the frame and the bushings for the doubler will be between the crossmember and the doubler mount. The sleeves I'm talking about are for bolts that go through the crossmemeber and through the frame. They are just there to keep the frame from crushing when you tighten the bolts.... just like the sleeves through the frame for the power steering box on an SII.

I could just weld some tabs on the side of the frame and attach the crossmember to that like the stock trans crossmember attaches on an SII. I tore one of those off my trans crossmember on the '05 'con trip. The through bolt idea would be much stronger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
645 Posts
Got the 203/205 adapter mount finished up last night (unless I have to tweak it a little to make everything fit/work). Now I need to build the crossmember itself. I'm trying to decide how I want to attach the crossmember to the frame and I think I'm going to drill holes horizontally through the frame rails, sleeve them to prevent crushing and through bolt the crossmember to the frame. Unless someone can convince me there is a better way.....
Just another option..... I cut out some 1/2" or 3/8" plate (2" x 4") drilled holes in it. Tacked it into place then transfered those to frame. Cut tacks, pulled off heavy plate, drilled oversize holes on inside of frame only. Drilled the heavy plate to size for 1/2" tap. Tapped on bench then tacked back inside frame. Bolted crossmember up to check fit. Then burn it in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,843 Posts
Edit...

The sleeves I'm talking about are for bolts that go through the frame. The crossmember will be bolted to the frame and the bushings for the doubler will be between the crossmember and the doubler mount.
That's what my brain had pictured. Except the Plasma sounds like the way to go, as I forgot about that purchase.:flipoff2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Just another option..... I cut out some 1/2" or 3/8" plate (2" x 4") drilled holes in it. Tacked it into place then transfered those to frame. Cut tacks, pulled off heavy plate, drilled oversize holes on inside of frame only. Drilled the heavy plate to size for 1/2" tap. Tapped on bench then tacked back inside frame. Bolted crossmember up to check fit. Then burn it in.
Thought about that too... but I still think the through bolt method is stronger. Overkill? probably.... :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,101 Posts
I'm in the "drill, sleeve" camp, too.

Better than hanging the crossmember from the bolts, but you could also look into designing it similar to the stock setup so that the bolts are not actually what's doing most of the work when you're on the throttle going forward.

Drill and sleeve, but then weld angle "L" on one side, and upside down on the other, similar to the stock setup, so that when the crossmember is installed, you sort of rotate it into place, and the bolts are still horizontal, but the angle steel is taking the twisting torque, too.

Probably overkill, and a lot less convenient than just making a "U" shaped member and bolting it in.

I'm also in favor of the bushing under the doubler - keep the flex point in close to where the factory had it, and don't make one end flexier than the other (too much) and try to twist it all at a different rate and eventually explode the aluminum doubler adapter. :D
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,661 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
...Drill and sleeve, but then weld angle "L" on one side, and upside down on the other, similar to the stock setup, so that when the crossmember is installed, you sort of rotate it into place, and the bolts are still horizontal, but the angle steel is taking the twisting torque, too...
Good idea. I fabbed up the crossmember tonight, but haven't welded the angle ends on it yet.

Wouldn't you know it, when I held the crossmember up to see how it fit, it looks like my rock slider support legs are right in the way where one (if not both) of the holes needs to go through the frame. I may need to make up longer end pieces to space the bolts out to miss the support leg... or move the rock slider leg. :homer:
 
21 - 40 of 178 Posts
Top