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Bald1 said:
yes, but it wasn't a ff diff
Yes, the 60-2, offset 6" to the passenger side with a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. Makes a great axle to shorten for a 60" wide Jeep size rear end, only one side to cut down.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
BadAZYj said:
Just bore the spindles and get yukon shafts. Talk to Hackle, he just has hid bored somewhere in phoenix, not sure if you can find someone in tucson to do it or not???
what are you running in yours scott?

i am thinking of keeping the stock shafts, re-gear and detroit..........bet there are a lot of guys running that same set-up.

OR as you say.........bore spindles and go 35 spline BEFORE i fork out the dough fer the detroit :flipoff2:
 

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rockr said:
...bore spindles and go 35 spline BEFORE i fork out the dough fer the detroit
Do that, or you will later.

If you want to run the 30 spline shafts, get a cheap 30 spline spool for it, so you aren't out as much when you switch to the 35's. I know of a used 30 spline spool available for purchase by someone doing this exact thing.
 

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You can find 35 spline D60s in eighties vintage Ford Econoline vans. Not real common, but there is a few of them out there.

I would not be so concerned about the D60 shafts being the same as D44 shafts. You are comparing apples to oranges. The FF D60 shafts are isolated from supporting the weight of the vehicle, and will put up with A LOT more abuse than the D44 shafts will.
 

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Robert said:
I would not be so concerned about the D60 shafts being the same as D44 shafts. You are comparing apples to oranges. The FF D60 shafts are isolated from supporting the weight of the vehicle, and will put up with A LOT more abuse than the D44 shafts will.
the front d44 shafts dont support the weight of the vehicle either and they snap all the time...as do rear 60 shafts

the semi float 60's have 35 spline shafts...i would rather run a semi float 35sp than a full float 30sp
 

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The Jerk said:
no rear d60's are 35 spline unless you upgrade tha ti know of. d70 on the other hand is stock 35spline.

jiMMy
Not all. I just scrapped a 23 spline D70 last week. :mad3:
 

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joshfj40 said:
the front d44 shafts dont support the weight of the vehicle either and they snap all the time...as do rear 60 shafts

the semi float 60's have 35 spline shafts...i would rather run a semi float 35sp than a full float 30sp

But look at the reason why front D44 shafts break. Usually, it is because the moron driver has the steering stops set wrong, the u-joints are binding up at full lock, and the shafts snap.
Or they have the front tire pushing into a ledge that it has no chance of getting over. I have witnessed this time and time again in the Little Sluice Box :shaking:

I would rather have a full floater 30 spline over the 35 spline semi floater. The semi floater is a c-clip axle IIRC. Break a shaft (and it will happen) and you will probably lose the wheel. With a ff, it is much easier to replace a shaft, or just keep wheeling if you have a spool.
 

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I've always laughed when people talk about their big "upgrade" fo a stock dana 60 rearend..
yeah, it's a somewhat tough rearend, but really, to put things in perspective, it's a entry level FF rearend. can anyone name a WEAKER FF rearend produced(in the US) in the last 30 years?? I know I can't.
All a rear 60 is buying you is 1/2 ton sized axles, in a FF, with a big ring gear.

Now a sterling 10.25, or 14 bolt, or dana 70.. thats a REAL 1 ton rearend.
 

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Bore the spindles....

KJ4Me said:
only way you get 1.5" shafts and 35 spline stock is on a D70 rear. Good luck. it'll be easier to bore out and get NEW shafts from Yukon (and new carrier)
I would go this route! Bore the spindles to 1.62" get a new carrier and the shafts from yukon.

Price breakdown-
Bore spindles- $80
35 spl carrier- $500-$700 (depending on which you go with).
Yukon 35 spl shafts- $162 (cut to fit, just chop it to 34.51")

http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/p...16276?osCsid=67a0771af33a4b537264becad4fa0d45

Lighter and nearly as strong as the D70 (ring gear would be the only difference)..... You were going to upgrade the carrier anyway right?
 

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Posts like this are always good for a laugh. If you've decided, based on your driving style and tire size, that a D44 front axle is what you need for your rig, I don't think you should throw a lot of money at the D60 rear.

You're MUCH more likely to break that front than a 30-spline D60 rear shaft. For reference -- as Scott can attest to -- I ran a welded 30-spline 60 rear for a long time with 38.5 SX and never broke a shaft.

I say run what you have until you've proven that it doesn't meet your needs.
d
 

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Ditch them both and get a HP D60 and 14b. You can get a HP60 from Highhonda in the vendor forum and 14b's are a dime a dozen at the yards.
 

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How do places bore out the housing ends to 1.6" diameter? Do they use a drill mounted hone? I know there is alot of material to bore out but I can't imagine a machine shop chucking up a housing in a lathe unless they cut off the ends and then reweld them. Reason I ask is my buddy wants to upgrade to 35 spline shafts but they won't fit. I told him we could try honing them out with my Sunnen hone but I only have finishing stones--220 and 330 or so grit. I know they make 60 grit stones I believe...

Thanks,
Jason :)
 

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You will be there for years with a hone. A big lathe will do the job in about 20 min....
 

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Blatant said:
Posts like this are always good for a laugh. If you've decided, based on your driving style and tire size, that a D44 front axle is what you need for your rig, I don't think you should throw a lot of money at the D60 rear.

You're MUCH more likely to break that front than a 30-spline D60 rear shaft. For reference -- as Scott can attest to -- I ran a welded 30-spline 60 rear for a long time with 38.5 SX and never broke a shaft.

I say run what you have until you've proven that it doesn't meet your needs.
d

I couldn't have said it better myself.

As for you question to how spindles are bored, you can do it in a lathe, I did a couple weeks ago to do my 35 spline 60 rear.

I chucked it in a lathe at work, used a steady rest near the spindle being bored and drilled the hole to the hole to 1 and 41/64s. It doesn't need to be precise since it just needs clearance for the shaft inside the hole. As long as no burrs are left a drill will be just fine. You can't run it fast enough to use a boring bar unless you compensate for the differential weight and it wasn't worth the time or effort to try.
 

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Yeah, you may get lucky with the 30 spliners as some like Dion have, or you might not and break them doing something incredibly easy like some like Hackle and Bill Mish have. At this point in the game Id just bore it and get the 35 spliners and forget about it. Im running whatever randys ring and pinion sells for(I think yukon) shafts in mine and a yukon 35 spline spool, no issues yet. But yeah, Id be more worried about the 44 front than this. if you do anything Id get superiors and ctms for the front(or yukons and longfields depending on your budget) then worry about goin 35 spline rear. the good thing about breaking an axle with the ff is you can get back to the trailer without having to get messy(assuming you can get out of the trail in 3wd):beer:
 
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