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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just added 35" BFG muds to my 85 4Runner (3" spring lift), and surprise! They rub the firewall like hell when wheeling (they even rub when I enter my driveway, or if I turn too sharp). I also get tire rub on my steering arm (still have stupid push-pull steering). I already trimmed the firewall body seam, added 1/4" wheel spacers, and adjusted the steering stops. Since I hate body lifts I thought about longer shackles, but I thought that might move the axle CLOSER to the firewall (on compression). Will the All-Pro relocation plates (1") provide enough clearance? I don't mind a little firewall surgery, but I'd rather not have to relocate wiring, ECU, etc. So... any ideas?
 

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why would you buy relocation plates when you have a drill? i know you have one, you needed to buy hysteer instead of bigger tires...can you even move an axle forward with early model push pull steering? shorten the draglink??:eek:???

relocating the ecu to behind the glovebox requires no mods to the wiring....
 

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Booger Weldz said:
can you even move an axle forward with early model push pull steering? shorten the draglink??:eek:???
You can but they dont steer very nice and they go to full lock one way on full LH drop. They are also a lot more prone to snaping the J arm.
I ran like this for a while with a drop Arm but it fully sucked :mad:
 

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i shortened a S link from superlift and it works fine, the rod ends screw in so you simply unscrew them, shorten as required and then screw them back in.


NICK
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Booger Weldz said:
why would you buy relocation plates when you have a drill? i know you have one, you needed to buy hysteer instead of bigger tires...can you even move an axle forward with early model push pull steering? shorten the draglink??:eek:???

relocating the ecu to behind the glovebox requires no mods to the wiring....
OK OK I didn't know if it would work that's why I was asking... So I need to convert to Hysteer and move the axle? Fine I can do that, was planning to anyway.
 

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I just wanted to state that regular crossover, with the tierod in the stock position, will work just as well as highsteer as far as moving the axle forward. This may make it a little more feasable as far as money goes.
 

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Put 48" rear springs up front, moves the axle 2". And crossover steering. And do a 2" body lift, I know you said you don't like BL's but if you go 2" you can raise the gas tank and engine/trans. AND... you will need about 6" total lift to clear the 35's. OH...:D then there's the '86-95 rear axle. Uhhh... and the spacers for the front.;) That oughta keep ya busy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
85TrailToy said:
Put 48" rear springs up front, moves the axle 2". And crossover steering. And do a 2" body lift, I know you said you don't like BL's but if you go 2" you can raise the gas tank and engine/trans. AND... you will need about 6" total lift to clear the 35's. OH...:D then there's the '86-95 rear axle. Uhhh... and the spacers for the front.;) That oughta keep ya busy.
Yea I will be busy... and that's a good thing! Thanks for the info.
 

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35 AND RUB

IM RUNNING 35'S WITH 3"LIFT, MAKING MY OWN 1 1/2 BODY LIFT
AND IM TOLD USING ALL PROS FRONT SPRING HANGER GIVES YOU
ANOTHER 1" OF LIFT, AND OF COURSE TRIMING HAS STOPED THE
SLICING. WHEN ITS ALL SAID AND DONE, ILL BE COUGHING UP THE DOUGH FOR 5 " SPRINGS AND HIGH STEER. GOOD LUCK.
 
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