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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, you can just whack off where the tire hits and if your happy, that's fine.

But re-folding the lip the fender retains it rigidity and looks much better. Don't forget you won't be cutting a tire or your arm if you fold a new lip.

I use electrical tape as it cheap and easy, any tape will do. If you already used a sharpie that's fine too. But the tape makes the lines smooth. Apply tape so the top edge is where you finished edge is going to be. I use a second color on top of that to help smooth out any imperfections from the first tape. Cut the panel with a JIG saw better control that a Sawzall or cut off wheel. You cut at the bottom of the first tape line. Now with a pair of vise grips clamp at the top edge of the tape and bend the fender in about 1/8" or so and work you way to the end of the cut, and then repeat. using a light hammer to finish off the bending and you now have a nice stiff fender that is trimmed.
I will update with details on other tips and tricks.

Note: after cutting and before bending, take the flapper sanding disc and make the edge smooth. It's a lot easier to to this now. One less thing to cause a blood letting.



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
At the top where the cut blends back into the existing wheel well line continue the cut up a few more inches as you need to bend the cut part down and out of the way in order to get the vise grips in there to bend a lip. Once the lip is bent you will bend the cut part back down to fill in the lip ( see pic)

At the bottom end you need to cut the fenders lower lip so you can start the folding. If the rocker panel is in the way you will need to cut that back first. I found removing the inner fender mud guard and bending as needed helps too. The cut off wheel comes in handy when working on the rocker panel, you may have to make several cuts to get a clean sq cut. On the rear where the inner fender it attached you need to cut along the lip so you can be push it up to allow the pliers to get in there to bend the lip.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
REDDMANIAC;8250961 [B said:
digging the rollbar, where'd you get it? or is custom one off? Looks different if you say its a D&C make.[/B]
It's a DandC family cage with Atari bars with some minor changes. Not that you can see any mods in the photo. I bent the front bar up to the roof for more head clearance and added the rear cross bar for support. I raised the main hoop up 3/4" as my top has room. Some gussets and rollbar padding.
 

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Sorry man my plasma cutter PWNS all that work you do :grinpimp:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I took more pic's but they came out like chit, so I did not update this thread.

It's hard to cover everything and a little thinking will go a long way. When I was cutting Matt's last weekend, there were a few items that I had to stop and look what would work best. Mostly where to cut so I can get the pliers in there to fold a lip.

Tip: After cutting fender and before bending use a flapper wheel to get rid of sharp edges your fingers will thankyou later.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok instead of posting after the fact, I'm starting before.

I had 37 and everything was fine, but the 38 are hitting the front fenders.
So the plan is to do a bit of trimming and see what happens. It's easy to cut more it needed.

First step is to plan the cut. I used some electrical tape to mark where I wanted to cut, but it did not look quite right. So I tape a welding wire to the fender and bent it to see how it arched. Notice the tape needs to be moved up a bit. I used a sharpie to mark the wire and then moved the tape.

Next was to measure and duplicate on the other side. FWIW its taking longer to write this than to lay it out. Next will be to look at it for a couple days as I have working the morning. then cut and fold.
 

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Not to piss on your parade, the rear wheel wells are to small for anything larger than a 33" tire so you will have to set some bump stops. Or you can tub the rear if you want to keep your Scout at a lower stance. For the same issues I cut the wheel wells and tubed mine then used James Duff Gorilla flairs (not sure if they are still available). If you go this route you will need to order two front sets and turn the rears backwards. Note these pictures are before the attempted back flip:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Look at it , cause it may tell you to do it a different way, that is if it talks to you like mine does :D
I figured I would look at it from a distance to see what it looks likes. I like Mech's cut, but I have a 2" body lift so thats why I did the tapper thing in the front, as it comes out close to the same.

Jetfxr, thanks for the fender flare tip, but I cut my rears back on day one too and they have been working good. Thats mine above with the family.
I would like to add some rub rails to keep the sheet metal off the rock though.

Edit... I need to flex it up with the wheel turned and snap a pic
 

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How did you get the cage to fit, I have heard nightmares from folks trying to get the things installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I bought that cage like 4 years ago and it fit pretty good, I did some minor changes. I did not like the front bar above the windshield so I bent it up to match the roof better.
 

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I know the Scout II's are a whole 'nother animal...but on the 800's the fenders are real easy to cut. It's still small and not quite pirate material (for now)...but this Scout clears 33's with a 2" shackle lift and cut fenders without any rubbing ever.

I cut at the top parts of the bulge on the fender. Used a grinder with a cut-off wheel and just followed the body line. Fenders are plenty rigid without folding the lip back over and the factory supports in place. On something without a body line i use masking tape and take my time to lay it out perfect and use a cut-off wheel. On a tight radius I make relief cuts and go slowly taking it off piece by piece and then clean it all up with a grinding wheel. Cut-off wheels work well for me, they don't shake around like a sawzall and are easy to control.


 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok the Scout was talking and it said I need a hair cut. So 10 minutes later I had cut off what was marked. I just used a jig saw and tilted the saw forward to missing the inner fender. Then found a big rock to see how it looked. I need to find a nice gully to test it on as I could not compress the suspension enough. Ya I know the rear half need some trimming too.

The problem is I started with some smaller tires and said I would not get bigger one's:laughing:
 

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The problem is I started with some smaller tires and said I would not get bigger one's:laughing:
that right there is always the biggest load of BS any wheeler says....


"I don't need anything bigger", or just a little lift will be just fine":laughing::laughing::laughing:



Back up that rock, that will put more compression on that front spring and better re-create what might happen on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Back up that rock, that will put more compression on that front spring and better re-create what might happen on the trail.
I thought about that. But my wife said she was getting cold, so we just left. I find that when the rear is being push up on one side and the front is being push up on the other side is when I can create max compression. Still on the look out for nice deep gully.


These are some pic's from last October and as you can see a ramp will not do the trick





 
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