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Discussion Starter #1
D60, D70, 14B whatever, where is the BEST place to butt the two together??
At the ends, or should a guy utilize as much of the heavier tube as possible (joint near pumpkin)??

I don't think it'll realy matter from a flex force point of view cause it's gunna get trussed anyways (back brace).

Any 'how to' sites, or write ups of past projects??
 

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Replace the end flanges with custom units that fit the spindle & outers of your choice, then truss the bugger.

You've been hanging around BC4x4 for long enough to have seen this article, no? :D
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/

Hell, you could drive 10 minutes and come look at mine ;)

Chris
PS: JP is working on flanges that'll bolt up to D60 outers...
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I personaly don't like that set-up as much. I want to use D70 spindles because that way I have the option of running 1.5" axles.
Bigger bearings, bigger spindles, bigger hubs, No rear hubs/lockouts, & cooler hub(IMO) :D
And most likely much cheaper in the long run.
 

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Ford 9" housings aren't all that strong, but strong enough for most lighter rigs. I'd probly just weld the spindle on to the end of the stock tube, but re-tubing the housing would be stronger (and a lot more work). Add your back brace before you weld the spindles on, that way they dont pull with the housing.

Just my $.03

Eric
 

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Just did this last weekend. I wanted 8 lug axles for the 9" and dutchman doesn't make them anymore. I started with a junk 9" with 3/16" wall tubes. Ordered a weld-on axle truss from summit and welded that on, being very careful to only weld a couple of inches at a time and swithcing sides frequently. It still pulled the tubes backwards a little.

I got the 14B ends and shafts from Adam Ant for $150 from a housing that he had laying around. $150 is what I would have paid at PNP, so at least I didn't have to do the work to pull it.

CJ66Dean removed the remaining tubes from the ends with torch and then turned a smooth surface in a lathe. Dean's got a cool jig setup with a long metal rod that threads thru discs that were custom turned to 3.25" that were bolted in the 3rd member bearing cap. Basically, everything was completely straight before welding the ends on.

I used the cheapo AA mfg weld on caliper brackets along with 77 K20 front calipers and rotors.

IMHO, if you don't build a jig and spacers for the 3rd bearings, there is a pretty good possibility for fawking up the alignment.

Thanks again Dean!

SeanP
 

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SeanP what spline did you use on the inside of the axle's? I've been thinking about doing the same thing on a nine inch for my heep.
 

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I went to 35 spline. I am going to have Dutchman build me two axles for $295 and also shorten/respline the 14B for trail spares.

SeanP
 

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:eek: Just friggin awsome. I've been thinking about this for along time now. Thanks guys for sharring all the great info. I've got all the parts just need to decide which direction. Thanks again.
 

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Has anyone every tried using a "grand national" style 9"?
this one runs $999.00

Seems like it would be sweet under a buggy. Its only 31 spline though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Daniel said:
BTDT... :D
you can see the welds in both pictures

So are the bigger tubes a)butt welded to the pumpkin ends, or b)were the bigger tubes turned & slid inside the pumkin housing??
I know 'b' would be 'ideal' but WAY more involved.
I've bin advised by a buddy (that knows everything, you know the kind), that I should keep the weld towards the outside because of all the leverage near the center. The way I see it is, the tubes are way thicker so a good weld should be easy either way, and a backbrace solidifies the whole deal anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
SeanP said:
I went to 35 spline. I am going to have Dutchman build me two axles for $295 and also shorten/respline the 14B for trail spares.

SeanP
Are you sure you can do this with the 14B spares??
last time I checked a set, the main body of the axle shafts were narrower than the splined area, 1.365". (cannot narrow & re-spline at 1.5").
Just sumpin you might wanna double check.
 

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I've been thinking about this again, is there enough material on the 14 bolt tube to turn it down to press fit into the nine inch housing? I guess when I get out today that I will try to get some sort of measurements. Kinda off topic but I have also wondered if there is anyway to get the 5on5.5 bolt patter back on a fullfloat hub?
 

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Rogue Bronco said:

Are you sure you can do this with the 14B spares??
last time I checked a set, the main body of the axle shafts were narrower than the splined area, 1.365". (cannot narrow & re-spline at 1.5").
Just sumpin you might wanna double check.
They neck down and then step back up and as long as you are cutting far enough in, you can have them resplined to 35 spline.

Kinda off topic but I have also wondered if there is anyway to get the 5on5.5 bolt patter back on a fullfloat hub?
You can get 6 on 5.5 for sure, I would assume that 5 on 5.5 is possible as well...the onlu difference is that 6 usually uses 7/16" studs and 5 uses 1/2" studs.

Here's a pic of 6 on 5.5:
 

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Rogue Bronco said:

So are the bigger tubes a)butt welded to the pumpkin ends, or b)were the bigger tubes turned & slid inside the pumkin housing??
I know 'b' would be 'ideal' but WAY more involved.
I've bin advised by a buddy (that knows everything, you know the kind), that I should keep the weld towards the outside because of all the leverage near the center. The way I see it is, the tubes are way thicker so a good weld should be easy either way, and a backbrace solidifies the whole deal anyways.
This 9" has 3 1/2" tube with 1/2" wall, the tube is tured down to slip in the housing 5 1/2" and welded inside at the end of the tube and out. This makes a very strong uint. steve differential eng. inc.
 

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Rogue Bronco said:
D60, D70, 14B whatever, where is the BEST place to butt the two together??
At the ends, or should a guy utilize as much of the heavier tube as possible (joint near pumpkin)??

I don't think it'll realy matter from a flex force point of view cause it's gunna get trussed anyways (back brace).

Any 'how to' sites, or write ups of past projects??
Weld on the truss first and then weld on the spindles on the end right at the spindle flange. This is where they were welded from the factory. Here is a shot of a 60 to give you an idea.

You can see the beveled end of the tubing there at the back side of the spindle. This is where you will weld it on. Make sure you bevel the end of the tubing and have a nice bevel on the back side of the spindle to get a good weld don't just slide them together and butt weld them.
 
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