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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, i finally did it!

(No Pics Cause I Forgot The Camera at My House)

I decided that the 2 piece shaft of my YJ has its advantages and wanted to make use out of it.

I decided to weld my front spider gears instead of buy a locker because of the price (Free) and the ease of doing it.

It was a VERY easy process but somewhat time consuming. Here is my cheesy step by step write up with no pics:

1. Lift rig and support with jack stands
2. Remove both front wheels
3. Remove both brake calipers
4. Pull Rotors
5. Undo Spindle Nut
6. Remove 3 bolts holding hub on
7. Use 3 Jaw Puller to remove hub
8. Slide both Axle Shafts out
9. Pull diff cover and drain oil
10. Remove Vacuum Thing to get at mid shaft
11. Remove C clip in diff to remove mid shaft
12. Remove mid shaft
13. Punch Locator Punchs on Bearing caps to make sure they go on the right way
14. Remove carrier (mine came out nice and easy with no fighting)
15. Remove Ring Gear
16. Clean the SHEEEEEAT out of carrier and spiders
17. Weld all contact points of the spiders (being careful not to get splatter near the splines)
18. Weld a little, let cool, repeat until done. Dont wanna warp it!
19. Re Install Ring Gear
20. Then we installed everything and torqued it all to FSM Specs and then found out the C Clip hit the welds and wouldnt go back on.
21. Pondered that for a little bit and then decided it wasnt important and assembled without it.
22. Everything is all back together and there is ZERO change in my turning because the axle disconnect alleviates that
23. Only thing left to do is bolt the front driveshaft on to see if i get any vibes and of so, correct it.

All and All this was very easy but took about 5 hours from start to finish!

Big thanks to Michael Allen for his welding skills and assistance!

Cant wait to test it!!!

[ 10-07-2001: Message edited by: Boston Mangler ]
 

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u have the roc-loc or whatever its called now yeah? the disconnect thingy...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by BLK88:
<STRONG>u have the roc-loc or whatever its called now yeah? the disconnect thingy...</STRONG>
Right now i have a "Push Button" Disconnect (ala, the new tcase i installed didnt have a vacuum disconnect provision, so i am using the actuator "In Cab") and it is pretty cool actually. The Cable POSILOCK will be coming within the next week or so!

Here is the Jerry Rigged "In Cab" 4x4 Acuator
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yup

see that little silver ball?

when i push that in, the axle connects and i get fully locked

weird and sketchy but damn cool!
 

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I thought I would point out that you didn't need to remove the spindle nut and pull the hub. Pull the caliper and rotor, remove the three bolts for the hub assembly and then the complete assembly can be removed. You don't need to pull the hub unless your changing the hub. This speeds thing up a little on the trail if you have a broken u-joint. Good luck with the Lincoln locker. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">
 

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Did you only weld the spider gear to themselves??? if so hope you got little tires cause that setup usually downt last to long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
>>>>>I thought I would point out that you didn't need to remove the spindle nut and pull the hub. Pull the caliper and rotor, remove the three bolts for the hub assembly and then the complete assembly can be removed. You don't need to pull the hub unless your changing the hub. This speeds thing up a little on the trail if you have a broken u-joint.
****** Yeah, i wanted to pull both the bearings anyways because one of mine is junked and i need to replace it. I used that pull as a whole unit trick before and it is much easier, i agreee!

>>>>>So this is like using a selectable locker?
****** Yes and it was FREE (ok, $30 for blue smeg, and gear oil!)

>>>>>>Did you only weld the spider gear to themselves??? if so hope you got little tires cause that setup usually downt last to long.
***** I have heard tons of different things from different people as to what to weld to what. Yes, i welded them to each other and not the carrier and i run a STOCK 2.5L with 33" MTR's (35" coming eventually when the 33's wear out)

thanks
 
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