[IROK]

Just started to tub my firewall and thought I would get some opinions on how it's coming out.First time for me so hopfully I'm on the right track.Don't be to hard on me!

 

[molsenmuscle]

That doesn't look like approved shop footwear.

 

[smewhtguy]

You do plan on welding that back together right? I think you should scrap that peice and cut another one.

 

[IROK]

yeah it's far from being done!

 

[Brian Ellinger]

Keep cutting.

Check our build thread for an old tubbing pic (cab that came off)

 

[operose]

ugh sheetmetal pisses me off

After rebuilding a few unibody cars that rusted out I'd say you are gonna want to scrap your first patch panel and cut/hammer one that fits a bit better. This will make the whole thing go a lot better.

 

[ErikB]

start over with a larger piece of metal. Its easier to trim/bend a big piece than it is to stick a bunch of smaller ones together to patch all those holes. Overlap everywhere instead of butt weld too, like you did on the inside edge.

And your boomerang is backwards. If you've got a lot of droop, it may pull forward and hit the body mount.

 

[HomeGrown]

I usually start with a big piece of sheet metal and weld the top and start beating it into shape. Then I cut the extra off. And then I fold it around the side were the hinge is and weld that on. I used a ball ping hammer I don’t recommend that.

good luck

man this is an old pics of when i did my first tubb

 

[waskillywabbit]

Here's all the pics:
http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm

But try using a cardboard template and then test fitting and trim so you get the whole covered. Tack weld in place. Put some holes in the sheet metal and rosette weld it all around and then seam sealer, spray paint and some undersealer...never know it was done.

Hole :flipoff2:

Pattern and cut piece

Outside the cab - see the holes for welding

Inside the cab

Hope that helps.

:smokin:

 

[IROK]

ok thanks ,I guess i will cut more and start fresh! thanks for the input.

 

[Kyron]

get a piece of expanded metal and use that.

get floor mats if your worried about getting wet

 

[IROK]

Here's all the pics:
http://www.wabfab.org/projects/1985/body/ft/ft.htm

But try using a cardboard template and then test fitting and trim so you get the whole covered. Tack weld in place. Put some holes in the sheet metal and rosette weld it all around and then seam sealer, spray paint and some undersealer...never know it was done.

Hole :flipoff2:

Pattern and cut piece

Outside the cab - see the holes for welding

Inside the cab

Hope that helps.

:smokin:

is this more on the line of what your thinking?I still need to drill the holes to plug weld but I wanted to get it fit first.

 

[waskillywabbit]

Much mo betta.

:smokin:

 

[IROK]

thanks,I got the holes drilled to plug weld,so hopefully tommorow i'll get this side done.

 

[AddictedOffroad]

Just make sure your clutch still engages.

 

[Will.The.Thrill]

Finishing Idea

I did the whole tubbing deal two weeks ago, and for finishing I went over all my welds with Alex Plus which is a paintable silicone used in construction.Then I covered the metal with a thin layer of the goo and textured it by putting my finger tips on it then pulling straight back. This creates a really rough finish. When it was fully cured, I sprayed 3M Rubberized Undercoating all over the mess, several coats and I can hardly tell anything was done!

Epoxies might be a good choice for sealing too, but I work at a sheet metal shop and we had an entire self of Alex so....:homer:

 

[Will.The.Thrill]

Anyone have ideas on where to put the ECU?

I think there enough room between the fan box and firewall to put the ECU without cutting any wires...

 

[OOP'S]

Automotive paint stores carry seam sealer in tubes and brushable.

 

[RUFF]

I seam welded mine all the way round inside and out. Then just painted it with body schultz.

 

[waskillywabbit]

Just make sure your clutch still engages.

Yes! You will need to use the persuasion tool.

:smokin: