Pirate 4x4 banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well I finally got the new welder and some time to finish up working on the FJ55. As it sits now I have the 350/Th350 in place, a tilt column out of a 87 chevy pickup and the sagianw power steering out of same pickup. I'm really gonna have to look at the tech article to make sure I do the PS swap right. The Dana 60 rear is mocked into place and I will be welding the new spring pads in their proper place tomorrow. The front D44 is ready to roll under as soon as I finish the right side outboard tomorrow. Anyway here are the pic's tell me what you think. <IMG width=543 height=407 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/outbrd1.jpg"> <IMG width=545 height=409 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/outbrd2.jpg"> <IMG width=543 height=407 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/outbrd3.jpg">
<IMG width=549 height=412 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/outbrd4.jpg"> <IMG width=552 height=414 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/fj55sep13.jpg">
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Oh yeah As you can tell I also got longer shackles from Specter and I did a shackle reversal while I was at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
219 Posts
Looks good. I can't tell if you have welded all 4 sides of the angle to the chassis rail. It you haven't, I think you should. The torsional load caused by moving the hangers outboard will crack the vertical welds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I welded the top and the 2 sides and bolted the centers. My uncle works on CAT tractors and has been welding for years and he said that this would be the best way to go. He said that it will relieve some of the stress from the outside of the frame and prevent it from cracking. On the rear I havent inserted the grade 8 bolts yet cause I needed to get longer ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
The one comment I would make, and it may not be too late:

I would have the plate that the hanger is on go all the way across the frame rail, not just outboard. If you analyze the stress, it would be much stronger. You could even plate the opposing side.

I would predict that you may crack the frame after a couple of hard years...

Just my $0.02

Jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I see what you are getting at but I used 3/8x3 angle iron and it seems like alot of cutting and forming around the shock towers etc. just to plate the entire run of the frame. I do have some 3/16 plate that I thought of adding to the inner frame rail where the rear hanger is to be bolted to the frame but have decided on it yet. Keep em coming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,188 Posts
Originally posted by Josh:
<STRONG>I see what you are getting at but I used 3/8x3 angle iron and it seems like alot of cutting and forming around the shock towers etc. just to plate the entire run of the frame. I do have some 3/16 plate that I thought of adding to the inner frame rail where the rear hanger is to be bolted to the frame but have decided on it yet. Keep em coming.</STRONG>
Josh -

I was suggesting that below what you have now, but before the spring hanger, just put a piece of .250 plate under the mount surface and tie it to the frame rail. If you extend it by .20 past, you could plate the other side now or in the future.

Just what I would do...

JIm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The windchimes put me at peace when I work. HA, HA LOL.

I think that running the plate underneath and then up the other side like a channel would be a good idea. I'll have to see how much plat I have... if not enough I guess I'll have to get more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,701 Posts
Josh: I will echo Jim Hassi's comments about adding a plate underneath the frame rail to spread the load - you may even want to consider using a piece of angle so that it wraps the inside of the frame, and effectively boxes the lower part of the frame. Using wider axles (D60/D44) will add a great deal of stress to the springs, spring hangers and frame - it would not hurt to beef that area up. BTW, those are great looking welds. Keep up the good work. Andy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
If I were to inboard the springs it wouldn't allow effective use of the front Dana 44 at full width. I cant afford to have both the front and rear axles cut down shorter turned and everything else. Outboarding the springs is just a little less expensive and allows me to still use the axles at full width.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
wouldn't they flex more and be stonger and cheaper if you moved the mounts on the axel in rather than moving the mounts on the frame out??? i don't know though.. i am stupid
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes, they would if the spring mount for the front wasn't formed directly into the actual pumpkin itself. The rear wouldn't be a problem but the front axle is offset so the actual springpad is mounted into the differential housing itself.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top