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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My dad has a friend that's willing to give up a mostly disassembled 70's 429 for $100. But everything is included and apperantly it's in good condish for the most part.

I'm in grade 10, taking a power mech course, and I will be able to do a rebuild at the schools huge shop for my project. This will be my first ever engine build, maybe a little ambitious, but hey.

Any tips on rebuilding the engine. I can't spend alot of money, but I want it to run. (just a school project.

What are some things I need to buy for a proper rebuild?

Gaskets
Piston rings (how much would a set for 8 pistons cost?)
ect...

thx for your help.
 

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I'm one of those people that always expects the worse when I tear into an engine. I usually plan to spend close to $1000, between parts and machine work (unless of course your school has the machine tools, and then you can knock about $500 off the price tag).

Dependng on the condition of the engine: (IE: How deep is the rust on everything internal? How badly ridged are the bores?) Reboring the cylinders will probably be necessary, as will new valve seats, guides and springs, not to mention the valves that will undoubtably be bad. Reboring to .030 will require new pistons and rings. Of course the cam, lifters and timing gear set will have to be replaced, as well as the bearings. The crank will probably have to be turned .010, and will of course will require new rod and main bearings. The oil and water pumps will need to be replaced, as well. After that, slapping in new gaskets and seals is easy.

On the other hand, best case scenario, you might have a light coat of surface rust that can be honed out and there only be minimal ridging. Then you can just slap new rings on the old pistons, slap a new cam & lifters in along with a new oil pump, timing gear and chain set and water pump, put new gaskets and bearings in,and have a good running engine. But if you're already that far into an engine, it doesn't (In my mind) make sense to put that much into it without doing a rebore.

Pictures of the engine internals (ridges in the bores, amount of rust, etc) would be helpful, so we know what you're calling good condish.

The other thing I would tell you, get to be on a first name basis with a good local parts supplier. Prices are a widely varied thing, and a lot of parts stores (particularly the smaller local ones) will help you out a lot of the times.

Or you can just box up that 429 and send it to me, and I'll take care of it for you ;)
 

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The very FIRST thing to do is have the motor checked out for problems BEFORE you start buying parts and such.

Have the block magnafluxed for cracks.

Have the bores checked to see what size the bores currently are at.
If the block is .030 or .040 or whatever over, have it sonic tested to see how thick the cylinders are to make sure you are safe for another over bore.

Once you have checked out the block, move along to the crank and rods. Pistons will be junk, so you can throw those away. They are going to be pressed on the rods, so you will need to have them pressed off.

Have the stock crank magnfluxed and mic'd (cracks and size)

Rods I would probaly throw away as well. You can typically buy a set of aftermarket with good rod bolts already installed, which will be cheaper than having teh stock rods machined big and small end and resized, and bolts installed and then they will be still weaker than an aftermarket rod.
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You will need to have the block hot tanked, and machined (decked/align honed/bored/cam bearing and freeze plugs installed.

Bore $80-$150
Align honed $80-$200
Decked $50-$150
Cam bearing/freeeze plugs/hot tanked $100-$250

High end you are $750 there.

Then balance rotating assembly, heads machine work.....

You are going to have $3500 (easy) (on a complete rebuild, machine work, parts, and some go fast goodies, like a carb, headers, intake manifold, distributor) up to around $6000-$7000 in a Big Block Ford motor, depending on how much power you want to make, which will determine which parts you need to buy.
 

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If the motor isn't a screamer, I wouldn't throw the stock rods away and waste money on buying some super high tech aftermarket rods.
If you want to do a successful rebuild and are rebuilding for the purpose of getting the engine restored to new, and aren't going to be rodding the piss out of it, check the motor for sizing and wear like already mentioned.
A lot of times, if the motor was in reasonably good condition when it was torn down, pistons can be reused, as well as rods, and with a little crank polishing, you can save yourself the hassle of having the crank turned.
Just be mindful to specs and factory service limits and you will be alright.
 

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is it a dove headed motor? It will say dove on the casting of the head. What are you putting the engine in?
 

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is it a dove headed motor? It will say dove on the casting of the head. What are you putting the engine in?
What is the significance of a dove head, and where is it on the head?
 

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a dove head has more, ~11:1 compression, so alot more than an emissions head. I've heard stock they put out anywhere from 325hp to 400hp and 400+ foot lbs. I think they only came 68', 69' and early 70'. They may have bigger ports too, but i'm not sure.
 

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If the motor isn't a screamer, I wouldn't throw the stock rods away and waste money on buying some super high tech aftermarket rods.
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For one, I never said "super high tech aftermarket rods"
Two, if you check around, you can find a set of aftermarket rods for around the same cost as having stock rods resized big and small end after you have them resized for rod bolts, as well as the cost of rod bolts. You can pick up rods in the $200-$300+ range anymore. Pick up some cast steel rods for cheap these days.
 

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a dove head has more, ~11:1 compression, so alot more than an emissions head. I've heard stock they put out anywhere from 325hp to 400hp and 400+ foot lbs. I think they only came 68', 69' and early 70'. They may have bigger ports too, but i'm not sure.
The ports are the same size. DOVE is located above the middle 2 exhaust ports just before the valve cover. The is a letter after the DOVE...that makes a difference. DOOE-R heads have the larger ports...they are the size of a pop can.
 

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For one, I never said "super high tech aftermarket rods"
Newbie, I know you didn't say "super high tech aftermarket rods".
I did.
What I think you are missing is there is not point in throwing a good set of rods away (presuming they are good) and wasting money on unnecessary expense, like new rods if the old ones aren't wasted.
As he is in school, I am sure that they sky ISN'T the limit on his budget, so lets help him make educated decisions in rebuilding the engine while saving money.;)
 
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