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Discussion Starter #1
I thought I'd throw up some pics of the new steering setup I've been working on. With the axle now 6.5 inches forward of stock, getting decent tie rod/draglink geometrywith the Celica box wasnt possible.

The forward facing pitman on this setup has worked out really well as far as geometry. The overall size and shape of the box makes for a perfect fit.

As soon as I get my welder out of the shop (it died) and a flat pitman I'll finish it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The front sleeves came through right inbetween the walls of the radiator mount. I cut the front welds of the mount and bent it back so I can weld around the sleeves. Once the sleeves are welded up, I will bend it back and reattach the raditor mount.
 

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Looks good Scwa where did you get those front bump stops I like:D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The geometry of the draglink and tierod are perfect. The tierod actually clears the pitman, but the pitman will hit the spring when fully compressed. I need a flat pitman, hopefully Sky is going to make some soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Looks good Scwa where did you get those front bump stops I like
The adult bookstore...:flipoff2:




The rubber part is a prothane piece I believe. I made the mounts out of some tubing and scraps. I made them a bit too short, so I had to shim them down with some spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
With the axle this far forward and the way I built my extension the only Saginaw box that would work is the Scout II box. I had an IH before my zuk and can go the rest of my life without ever using IH parts again.

The IH box is essentially the same, just a huge version of the FJ 60 box. I think the FJ fits better, and being a jap part it will hopefully keep the fluid on the inside.
 

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WOW really appreciate your detailed pics since I was just about to post a topic looking for pics. of FJ 60 boxes installed in Zooks.
So the pitman arm is a problem then huh?
The IFS arm won't fit on this box?
What about a pitman arm from a 2wd Yota steer box? These are about flat & have a female conical end on them already.
You don't think you'll have any issues with the arm hitting the drag link under full compression of the driver's side?
Is that the FJ60 steering u-joint onto a FJ shaft mated to the Samurai steering shaft??? Nice clean rig! Looks like a showroom model;)
Sorry about all the questions but inquiring minds want to know;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So the pitman arm is a problem then huh?

Barely...if my shackles were in the front, or if I had lifted springs it would probably work.

The IFS arm won't fit on this box?

It does fit, but it doesnt really help. The radical drop of the 60 arm way at the end makes more room than the gradual slope of the IFS arm.

What about a pitman arm from a 2wd Yota steer box? These are about flat & have a female conical end on them already.

Don't know about these.

You don't think you'll have any issues with the arm hitting the drag link under full compression of the driver's side?

Nope there is a ton of clearance, way more than I had before.

Is that the FJ60 steering u-joint onto a FJ shaft mated to the Samurai steering shaft???

The u-joint is off of a Supra on a severely shortend Sami shaft.

BTW-a $100 is a great price!
 

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Looks good scwafish. That is a clean setup. The FJ60 box fits better than the IFS box. Man you weren't kiddin about your Jethro hole-drillin jig, it worked awesome! Those holes are S-T-R-A-I-G-H-T ! I barely got my exit holes in the right zipcode. Keep me posted on the flat-arm search.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Tusker- Sky is going to call me tomorrow with the scoop. You got meet my new neighbor, he is also a hog slayer and a super nice dude.

The top-secret ;) "Jetro-Jig" is the way to go for sleeving a frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The real trick is the Jethro-jig process. It solves the age-old drilling straight through the frame issue. The process:

1) Make your plate and drill the pilot holes for the bolts. Double check the hole centers.
2) Clamp the plate to the frame and drill the ouside wall of the frame using the pilot holes in the plate for your template. The frame and the plate now have the exact same centers.
3)Drill the holes in the plate to the right size for the sleeves and counter sink the holes to improve weld contact.
4)Use the JJ to weld all 4 sleeves square to the plate.
5)Enlarge the pilot holes in the outside of the frame to the right size for the sleeves.
6)Push the plate/sleeve assembly into place until the sleeves bottom out on the far side of the frame
7)Use a bit the SAME size as the ID of the sleeves to drill a pilot hole in the far frame wall. The sleeves will put the far side center in the exact right spot.
8)Pull out the plate/sleeve assembly and enlarge the holes in the far wall to the correct size for the sleeves.
9)Put plate/sleeve assembly back into place and weld it up!

A finished "assembly"
 

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