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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to make this its own thread but its also in my build up. I might be a little behind the power curve on this one but i couldn't find any real good info about it. This has to do with the Chevy V8, clutch and fj40 slave cylinder not having enough throw. i read some about using a 1969 brake master in place of the clutch master, so i ordered on e from auto parts ware house...I think. of course it has the 9mm inverted flare fitting which seemed to be the point ware people were having problems. Napa doesn't have that adapter fitting that comes up in all the searches any more, so i order a 10mm inverted flare to -3 AN, got a 10mmx1 tap, and a 1 5/8 socket. Removed the the end of the brake master took out the residual valve, drilled out the 9mm to 10mm taped and installed the 10mm to -3 inverted flare fitting. You can see in the pictures that the flare fitting part of brake master actually comes out making it easy to re drill and reuse that part. works like a champ. you will need to make a longer push rod for the master cylinder. A slave rod works well.
 

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thanx..... just ready to get working on my junk again after to long of a pause and this is top on my list.i'll take it as a sign.:flipoff2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I finished the clutch master swap, and man is it stiff!! It works, lots of travel at the slave but its a real stiff clutch pedal. I had to swap out the reservoir for the old clutch because the new brake is to tall and hits the hood.
Anybody that's done this is there anything to do about the pedal feel?
 

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What were you running before the upgrade? Was it stiff with the old setup?
I run the stock master and slave in my 72 with a v8 and 420 and the clutch is easy to push.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the original master and slave, but I had to extend the push rods all the out and I still had to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor before clutch disengaged. But then when i took everything apart to redo it i found that the original clutch master was real funky inside.
How much movement do you have before your clutch disengages?
 

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I also had no issues. Ran cast iron bellhousing and clutch arm thing - whatever its called. So maybe throw is diff? Used stock lc slave and master. Had to make a bracket and longer push rod. Just bought a long bolt and threaded stock nut onto it. Used grinder to shape it. Clutch was like budda'. 1972 cruiser.. Was running stock pressure plate for mid 90s C series truck.
That elbow in the line might cause the fluid to not flow as quick. Making stiffer feel?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I abandoned the brake master in place of the clutch master. I got a Clutch master from NAPA for a 75'. The clutch feels reel nice and seems to disengage well. I checked the travel on the slave and the piston comes to within about a 1/4 of the end of the slave.
The 69' brake master does work, its just SO STIFF! way to hard to push in, I don't know how anyone could drive it that way
 

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