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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I will get my pics up here, to show you all, I have been roaring along with my new project, and I feel the need to tell you all, despite how ugly it is, and badly in need of clean and paint.

Anyways, here is your chance to tell me what you think.

Here are some specs:
V8J45 (all alloy 4.4L V8 running on gas)
BW T-18, 6.4:1
LT95 t-case, 3.3:1
Diffs:
HJ60 full floater, with ARB, discs
HJ60 with alloy axles and longfields, drive flanges, high steer
Ram assist

Using 12/1975 FJ45 body, which previously had a 307 chev in it, and is the body from the Full Metal Challenge car, that had the aussie girls driving it. (Someone on here jokingly said it will be sitting in the weeds in someones backyard...well it was and I have picked it up now.)

The frame is from a 1986 diesel dual cab minitruck, but was then chopped BARE except for the front crossmember (the middle crossmember is being used to hold it together but will be removed once the drivetrain is in. I have bobbed the frame around about 14" (these things have more overhang than a FJ60)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Front suspension:
HJ62 front diff, standard FLAT BJ42 front springs, flipped for approach and wheelbase.
FJ62 REAR spring hangers are mounted to the fron of the frame to give the correct width and a really good aproach angle.

The reason to go with the mini truck frame was so that I could LEGALLY engineer and register my landcruiser, with a spring over and shackle reversal. Any lift of more than 2" is illegal over here, and springovers are SPECIFICALLY written off under the law unless it came like that from the factory.

Anyways:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Another this was when we were cutting it off, and checking for fit.

The frame should also save me quite a few kilos, as it is lighter (but weaker) hopefully it wont be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In the background you can see the FJ60 housing that im doing the bootiefabbing on for the narrow track

it is 10mm wider than MY FJ40 front (about 1/2") this is due to how far the FJ62 rear hangers outboard the springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
proffitt'scruisers said:
Sounds cool. What kind of shop is that?
I work in the office (desk jockey, phone boy) of a transport company. If I am really nice they allow me to sneak in on a Sunday when no-one is there to wrench on my junk.

It is a fully equipped workshop and has lots of cool stuff (for fixing semi trailers) {18 wheelers} most of it I cant figure out, but things like welder, grinder, oxy, and so forth are VERY handy. /if only I had the skills you do :eek: that is a badass FJ45 that you drive.

Seeing Medusa was building one, and then seeing his slow, precise and dedicated process, is painful, perfect, but slow. Me im like throw that here, weld there, drive the suckah! Yours was finished and just made me want it even more. Plus I needed some wheelbase, as my shorty 40 was still to short even at close to 100" it was always lifting front wheels and trying to roll. Plus the 42s were a bit big for it. It was too heavy, the rear suspension with poorly designed wrap bar, all things considered, poor compormise between daily driver, poser, and offroad caning machine, and towards the end it did NONE of them any good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The goals for building it were:

To have a dedicated offroad vehicle, trailer rig.
To have an FJ45 cause I was jealous.
To be longer, lower and wider than my BJ, width will be negligible as some of the courses we run are even pretty tight at the width I am at now, the lower ride height and longer wheelbase will greatly add to the stability.
To greatly reduce the weight allowing the axles to last longer, and the buggy to be towed easier, and perform better.
Goal weight is:
1454 kilograms
3200 lbs
Might seem heavy for a comp rig, but its a pretty light landcruiser.

The maneuvarability should be handled by cutting brakes which I will have installed upon completion. And Ram assist steering, using my HJ60 box ported.

The tyres will be 42" TSLs on 15x10" beadlocked rims.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spring over front and 3 link rear.

The spring over front is using ARB greasable shackles, and HJ60 pins like I said.

Here is a pic with the 31s on it for moving it around.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The springs are very arched but have no weight on them at the moment, so I have every confidence they will sag at least to the point of being flat if not more.

It now rides on 42s :D These are COOL tyres
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is the thickness of the tubing for the lower rear links:
I didnt have a tape measur with inches im sorry guys, but the guidelines state

25.4mm = 1"
50.8mm = 2"

SO the links are fairly beefy, i beleive they will bend still, but they should cop quite a flogging.

More pics to come!

Any pics/ideas/suggestions, any raggin on my bootie fab?

CMAWN (i know it has zero bling so you cant rag me about that) ;)
 

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Um...too bling? :flipoff2:



Cool idea, though. Looks like it'll be fun when it's done!
 

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Old Rock Doc
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Should be a fun project:D I do have three questions: 1) how long are the front springs? They look pretty short if you are going to be expecting a lot of drop out of the front. 2) what are you going to do for rear springs -- coilovers? 3) Does the LT95 allow you to put the rear output in neutral while the front is in low?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wngrog said:
Sounds great! THe only suggestion I have is for you to kill the T-18 and go with an Automatic Tranny.

For competition, it can't be beat!
Awesome suggestion, it has been going around and around in my head. The T-18 is cheap and already done, so I will probably build it with that, but my intention is to convert to, an auto at some stage, because you can crawl, or have wheel spped, stall it up and launch it at ledges and stuff.....

Auto and 40:1 is all you need.

Take Chris Durhams rig, auto/atlas, 4.11 diff ratios :eek: the guy is a champion!! simple and built.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Medusa said:
Should be a fun project:D I do have three questions: 1) how long are the front springs? They look pretty short if you are going to be expecting a lot of drop out of the front. 2) what are you going to do for rear springs -- coilovers? 3) Does the LT95 allow you to put the rear output in neutral while the front is in low?
1: I dont need much droop the standard 40 series springs will be plenty, i dont need any more flex. I'm not after heaps of flex anyways.

2: The rear will have standard coils and shocks, I thought about coilovers but $$$ and i dont like the way some guys set them up super soft and the car has huge body roll all over the place. Which is why ill just get some stiff coils and put in there.

3: The LT95 has a vacuum centre diff lock, which is basically an open centre, through the cutting brakes, lock the back wheels, and it will send all drive to the front. Simple and cheap, and if I dont try and do full burnouts on it it will hold up. A mate is looking to convert one of these to fit into his hilux transfer case for similar reasons. You can do this in high or low range, Front or Rear wheel drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
More bootie fab

you shop this part (im pointing to it with a screwdriver) from your 40 series column, and weld or bolt it to the 60 series column, to fix the hole in your fire wall!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Im using a 1981 BJ42 pedal box, in fact all the parts I have are 1981 plus, so im retrofitting these into the early tub (12/1975 tub) and it is pretty easy, clutch master needed two holes drilled, brake master bolted in, pedal box bolted in with an extra hole. Two holes and the 60 column bolted in. Getting there, and with the 60 column, i can get rid of the headlights off the dash, the wipers off the dash, the hazards off the dash. Its gunna be an empty dash thats for sure :D
Fair way to go, and this empty body is what a carton of beer will buy you out of the weeds! :p
 

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