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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Huge thanks to Dave Willamson, owner Dave's Offroad Supply for his support throughout this build including parts from Advance Adapters, PSC, PRP, RCV, Ruff Stuff Specialties, Trail-Gear, and Yukon. I'm a royally impatient SOB and Dave does not d*ck around; he's awesome about getting back to me quickly with prices and technical info. He's a man of his word and if he says he's going to do something, he does it. Dave's proactive about contacting vendors and sends me tracking numbers right away. I'm extremely lucky to have his support. This wouldn't have been possible without you, Dave. Thanks, brother.

Big thanks to East Coast Gear Supply who never fails to impress me. Their selection, customer service, and prices are second to none.
Last but not least - Stephen Watson - Off Road Design. Two words - man crush. Stephen, his team, and ORD's products are awesome. I'm super stoked to run ORD's Magnum under drive unit.

Project Background: For over 10 years, this project has been has been all about forming friendships and shaping metal. I never could have imagined that anything could have brought people together like this truck has. I'm starting out my build thread with some history so if you can't handle it - move on.

2005 - Met Brennan Keil (Numidian aka Numi) through the MD Creepers 4WD club. Started Flip Flip Fabrication (our unofficial "fab shop") working on Brennan’s 4Runner which lost more sheet metal each time we wrenched on it. It was miracle that we didn’t go up in flames when we (ahem – Brennan) accidentally cut into the ½ fuel gas tank with a cutting wheel.

2008 – Brennan’s little brother Jared, 18 or 19 y/o then, brought me a beat stock 4Runner. One of the rear quarters was caved in and the wheel openings where all rusted out. We cranked on it over several months - SAS, FJ-60 steering box, swapped the trans, geared single case, RUFs, 63” Chevies out back, cut the rust out the front fenders and way over the cut the rear quarters which Jared hated, LOL. The build process was cool, we had zero budget, but built a capable trail truck. When that truck left my little single car garage, I knew I'd own it eventually.

'08 - Nov 2014 – Jared wheeled the snot out of the 4Runner over those 6 yrs then decided to move on. The timing was perfect since I needed a project to help keep my head screwed on throughout my divorce. Building and wheeling has always been therapeutic so it worked. Dave Williamson kept the parts coming which allowed me to thrash on it straight through to November. Rebuilt and spooled both axles, patched a ton of the frame, back half, dual cases, cage, PRPs & harnesses for my kids, new fuel system, brake lines, etc. I couldn’t have done this without the help of the Southern MD based Hard Rock Crawlers (HRC). Rob & Shannon opened their shop and house to me for almost a year while I came down every other weekend to work on the 4Runner. Dan Powell, Austin Stewart, David Kusik, would also give me their time when they could. They’re all awesome people and I’m lucky to have them as friends. We shook the 4Runner down at HRC’s Turkey Run at Rausch where it did awesome day 1 but ran awfully day 2. I drug it home and it pretty much sat for the rest of the winter. I try to wheel it once but it was't happening.

Spring 2015 – I meet an amazing woman (sweet), my Mom was diagnosed with breast cancer (suck) so the 4Runner got back burnered. I lost my Mom that August which really sucked. God bless my friends and (then girlfriend) and (now) wife though - They’d try and help with the 4Runner, trying to get me to focus on it again. I just kinda slipped into a funk which lasted for months.

Spring 2016 – Jared past away which was a pretty big blow. I’m the youngest of 4, never had a younger sibling but felt like Jared was my little brother. I hope he knows I think about him every day. The 4Runner sat, I knew I wanted to do stuff to it, I just couldn’t get in gear to make it happen. It was a good year though; me and Amber got engaged, she and my kids became closer; we moved in together, got another dog, and were well on our way to becoming a family. It was the beginning up the up-swing.

March 2017 – Another good wheeling buddy of mine, Brandon Antowiak, is going through hardcore wheeling withdrawl and this full size Chevy guy buys a YJ (WTF!?). We thrashed on it from March – November. All hands on deck; all the guys I mentioned before and more. For a couple of non-Jeep guys, we built a killer YJ. We only swapped axles in it twice, LOL.

Still with me? For a couple of non-Jeep guys we built a killer Jeep which totally re-ignited my building and wheeling fire. On the way back from the shake down run, Brandon and Rob got me psyched about putting an FJ40 tub on the 4Runner frame. A phone call later to my buddy Ary – we end up with a ’79 FJ45 cab (right hand drive) and sheet metal.

On 7 Dec, Brandon and I started thrashing on it to get the body in position. In the process, realized the body couldn’t just sit over the 4Runner frame otherwise it would be crazy tall. Over the next two nights,
we fabbed up something resembling a sub-frame, cut & capped the frame rails which dropped the cab about 8”. Ride height on the 39s is awesome. I really hope Jared would like it.

Nuts and bolts:
-Work the '79 F45 body onto the SAS'd '89 4Runner rolling chassis.
-I sold the the built Toyota axles (4.88s, spools, RCVs up front) to fund building the Chevy D60 front. Yukon 4340s & Super Joints up front.
Grenaded the '80s Dodge W350 D60 rear and swapped to a late model 14 bolt.
-Toyota rear springs front, 63s rear.
-'00 Chevy 5.3L ~105K miles. Bone stock.
-TH400, ORD Magnum & Chevy NP205 (V1.0 was Toyota W56 trans & doubler)
-PSC full hydro w/dual ended ram
-39” red label Krawlers, Trail Gear Creeper bead locks
-1.75" & 1.5" x 0.12" DOM full cage
-PRP suspension seats & harnesses
-Warn 8274 winch

Drive train stuff:
Version 1.0: '00 Chevy 5.3L LM7 -> Toyota W56 -> Toyota doubler ( [I ran this combo until Oct. 2018 when I broke the doubler t-case output shaft broken on Mason Jar/Harlan, Ky.
Verison 2.0 '00 Chevy 5.3L LM7 -> Chevy TH400 trans (32 spline output, short) w/FRMVB, Off Road Design Magnum, NP205.
This thread on S10Forum.com is a good resource for part numbers associated with an LS series motor swap - LSx Conversion Information

Engine
-Craigslist buy including harness and computer
-Contemplated going aftermarket with the intake, fuel, and wiring but it's not happening: FITech versus intake swap, harness, & ECU flash for... so I need to drop the harness off to Jim at Jim's Performance in Ellicott City, Md. I plan on having the harness stripped down to the bare minimum and have the computer flashed however Jim recommends.
-Oil pan clearance is good.
-The hood hit the truck intake but swapping to a car intake (Thanks, Eric) fixed this.
-GoatBuilt accessory bracket part numbers 4405-10, 4406-TC, and 4405-TEN.
-Dorman Engine Harmonic Balancer Bolt 917-139
-720-LSRC1 - GM LS Rear Cover Alignment Tool
-720-LSTC1 - GM LS Timing Cover Alignment Tool
-(Edit - didn't order) Freeze plugs and oil galley plug kit Jegs #555-58030 (Edit - didn't order)
-GM intake manifold bolt, sleeve, and grommet set; #30-4248 from LMC truck ~$50 [I shouldn't have bought these - they're for the truck intake but didn't realize it when I ordered them]
-LS6 intake manifold bolts (ARP 130-2001, ~$36)


Heads
Reworked by Marty Brown Racing and Machine in Glen Burnie, MD // www.martybrownracing.com
MB fixed: -2 broken off exhaust bolts in one head (U.S. passenger side), a damaged spark hole in the other (U.S. driver side), -valve seats, -valve steam seals, -heads were decked 0.005", -pressure tested.
Head bolts - FELPRO (bought through machine shop)
Exhaust manifold studs - Dorman (bought through and installed at Marty's)


Exhaust
Decent GEN III & GEN IV LS/LQ factory exhaust manifold thread - LS Exhaust Manifolds - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
The stock LM7 truck manifolds dump onto the top of the frame rails so I'm going to try a pair of C6 LS2 Vette manifolds I'm picking up locally (Craigslist buy).
Flowmaster Super HP-2 Mufflers (2.5" in/out; 5x"12" case, Summit # 12512409)
Summit Racing V-Band Exhaust Clamps (2.5", stainless #SUM-694250)


Cooling system
-http://www.championradiators.com/Landcruiser-Radiator-shroud (3 Row w/shroud, fan, and wiring kit) from LedFoot Racing
-Swapping the truck water pump for a 2010 Camaro water pump which I understand works with the LM7 truck crank and truck alternator pulley spacing - ACDELCO 251734
-Jegs rad hoses
-Need to measure for belt


Fuel system:
Great article that explains the differences between JIC and AN fittings: AN 37° Flare vs Industrial 37° Flare Fittings: What's the Difference?

892-010-01 Jaz 10 gallon poly fuel cell
546-40019 - FITECH Hy-Fuel Single Pump Regulated In-Tank Retrofit Kit - Install instructions here
555-15030 - JEGS 40 micron serviceable fuel filter. -6AN male fittings on both ends.
361-AT592906 x2 - Ano-Tuff AN Fitting Caps -6AN
555-14400 - EFI Fuel Rails for LS1 and LS6 Factory Intakes
361-682006 - UltraPro Series Hose Size: -6AN
555-41522 - Fuel Pressure Gauge 1-1/2 in. Diameter
C73-735-B - Fuel Filler. Manufacturer: Pro-Werks. Ordered through Pro-Werks vendor Heintz Performance / Concord, NC.

Goodbye Walbro Hello HydraMat - This looks pretty great..might have to pick up some for my fuel cell.

Trans & doubler (Version 1.0)
-As far as I know, the W56 is fine. I drove it in the ’85 it came out of and everything seemed fine at the time. I’ll install a new transfer case input seal before bolting up the doubler. We’ll see how it lasts behind the 5.3.
-I built the doubler a few years ago, has one weekend of wheeling on it. I swapped the shift rail & fork from forward to top-shift in the range box. 21 spline input in the range box & 23 spline in the rear case.
-I’d like to run a cleaner through both the tranny and doubler but don’t know what to use. My concern is that once I drain whatever I use, the residual will break down the new gear oil. Any suggestions?

W56 to R151F trans swap (Didn't happen. I sold the '87 parts truck to fund the TH400 swap.)
The W56 in the Cruiser came out of an '85 4Runner:
W56-A: 1985 1st gear: 3.954 2nd gear: 2.141 3rd gear: 1.384 4th gear: 1.000 5th-OD: 0.850 Reverse: 4.091 21-spline output Provision for top shift t-case Aluminum trans case is 25.5" long

The R151F came out an '87 truck w/130k miles
R151F: 1986-87 1st gear: 4.313 2nd gear: 2.330 3rd gear: 1.436 4th gear: 1.000 5th-OD: 0.838 Reverse: 4.220 23-spline output Provision for forward shift t-case Not sure how long the aluminum trans case is but will measure.

Clutch stuff (Version 1.0)
-Advance Adapters 712560V - SBC to Toyota trans bell housing kit for a 168 tooth flywheel
-Advance Adapters 716105 - SBC to Toyota trans conversion clutch disc (10.5" by 1 - 1/8" - 21 Spline). McLeod makes this disc for AA so I decided to go with McLeod for the flywheel and pressure plate
-Advance Adapters 716213 - Toyota Land Cruiser External Slave Cylinder
-Advance Adapters 716319 - Throw out bearing
-Advance Adapters 716155 - Pilot Bushing Spacer
-McLeod 460535 – Flywheel. I ordered the flywheel through Jegs but McLeod is drilling/tapping it to fit the 10.5” pressure plate and surface grinding it for the 10.5” clutch disc. McLeod charges $75 which I think is pretty fair.
-McLeod 360703 – Pressure plate
-Jegs 555-601015 - Jegs flywheel to crank hardware
-Jegs 673-1505 – McLeod pressure plate to flywheel hardware
-Rock Auto - LC clutch master - AISIN CMT014 {#3141060040, 3141060041} OE Clutch Master Cylinder

Drive Shafts
Rear:
-Spicer 3-2-1819: 1410 U-Joint Flange. 1/2" diameter holes x 3.0" diameter bolt pattern.
-Spicer 094-3-3-1831KX: 1410 slip yoke. 8.25" long x 1.5" diameter x 10 spline
-Spicer 094-5-1410X: 1410 U-Joint, non-greaseable (they're solid)

Axles & brakes
D60 rear
Axle housing, spindles, hubs, shafts, ring, pinion & carrier - out of an 80s Dodge W350. Factory 4.10s and welded carrier.
New pinion seal, thrust washer, and nut (7/8" - 14TPI, 1-15/16" thin wall socket. Eff-ton of LockTite)
WFO Concepts Dana 60/70 Flange, 29 Spline (Flange plus 4, 1/2" bolts)
3/8"-24TPI to -3AN adapters
Stainless braided brake lines (made by Cauliflower Hydraulic - Baltimore, MD)
Lugnut caliper brackets
D44 K20 Calipers (Rock Auto // L - ACDELCO 18R650, R - ACDELCO 18R649
D44 Rotors (Rock Auto // RAYBESTOS 5048R)
Dorman 610-283 wheel studs (Chevy D60 front, 9/16").
Hubs and rotors drilled to fit wheel studs (Verb Precision Machine)
Stage 8 locking spindle hardware (East Coast Gear Supply)
Ruff Stuff Diff Cover (drilled & tapped for vent)

D60 front housing, factory inner Cs, knuckles, spindles, upper & lower king pins, hubs, lug studs, caliper stands, ring, pinion, & carrier - '80s Chevy K30. Factory 4.10s and welded carrier.
Artec D60 shock tabs
Artec dual ended hydro ram mount
WFO Concepts Dana 60 70 Flange, 29 Spline (Flange plus 4, 1/2" bolts)
New pinion seal, thrust washer, and nut (7/8" - 14TPI, 1-15/16" thin wall socket. Eff-ton of LockTite)
10mmx1.5 TPMM to -3AN adapters (SpeedWay. Out of stock @ Jegs at the time)
Stainless braided brake lines (made by Cauliflower Hydraulic - Baltimore, MD)
K30 rotors (Rock Auto)
K30 calipers (Rock Auto)
Upper king pin seals (ECGS)
Upper king pin bushings (ECGS)
Seals-It axle tube seals (ECGS)
Inner spindle bushings (ECGS)
Knuckle-spindle hardware (ECGS)
Spindle thrust washer & seal (ECGS)
Stage 8 locking spindle hardware (ECGS)
Grade 8 1/2" fine thread lower king pin hardware (new)
Yukon 35 spline cro-moly inner & outer shafts w/Super Joints
Yukon 35 spline selectable hubs (replaced Warn 35 spline hubs that didn't fit)
I need to track down a set of Dorman 610-563 wheel studs; the stockers are barely long enough.

Steering
Artec's dual ended hydro ram mount
PSC 1.75" x 8" dual ended ram
PSC ram clevises
PSC Orbital
259-15800 - Electra-Cool Cooler Assembly Inlet Size: -8AN
4WheelSupply steer arms & knuckle tie in hardware (drilled by Verb Precision for knuckle tie-in bolts)
Artec D60 steering arm studs and tapered nuts
Stock knuckles
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I needed to re-title the thread, have never been a star member, so I didn't think it could be done without an admin doing it. Like I said, I'm impatient (and super OCD about certain things).

Here's the 4Runner between stages. It was running like crap if it would run at all and the body needed a lot of trimming to clear the 39s. The wheels had too much back spacing so the front tires were all up into the springs and the rear tires would rub on the frame rails.

The last picture we put the body on the frame. Way too tall.
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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Well then, to rehash the other thread....

Yota Axles and Trans / V8

Pick one. :nuke::flipoff2::nuke:

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
This. Sell the yota stuff and do it right.
 

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The yota axles will be fine if you refrain from driving like an idiot.
AFAIK the only domestic axles better than toy are tons and better.
Tahoe's all come with LS and none have 60s.
:flipoff2:
 

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Rolling Mod
04 Wrangler Unlimited, 67 F100
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The yota axles will be fine if you refrain from driving like an idiot.
AFAIK the only domestic axles better than toy are tons and better.
Tahoe's all come with LS and none have 60s.
:flipoff2:
Do they run 39” reds?
 

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Glad to see something come of that tub. It'd been sitting in my shed for way too long.

Love seeing how amped up you are about the build too. I wish I had the energy for this stuff these days. Too much else going on.
 

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WHEN you blow up the axles it will suck, but WHEN you blow the tcases up, it will really really suck.

At least put an auto in to give the axles a break.
 

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If he doesn’t want to listen to anyone let him waste his time with Toyota shit. We all are young and stupid at some point in our lives.
 

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well I have no opinion on axles, But i do on springs


having run GM 48", 52", 56" and 63" springs....with a 6" shackle in the front, I saw very little gain from 48-56 other than ride quality. 52-56 hardly any gain, other than work.

In the rear I went from 56" to 63" and saw no gain, but because I used the 56" in the front, I wasnt paying to go back to 56" springs. I wish I had kept 56" but If you plan to run 56" chevy springs in the rear to "shorten" the rear overhang, you will have to flip the springs because the ear overhang is the sameish....its only 2" shorter.... but the one advantage is you have less spring in front of the tire to hang up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
well I have no opinion on axles, But i do on springs.
Thanks for the heads up on the Chevy springs. I didn't realize the difference in center pin location between 56s & 63s. The 63s are 32" from the hard mount to the center pin but the 56s are only 26". I'll have to do some digging; I need a leaf that's 32" from the hard mount to the center pin but shorter from the center pin to the shackle end. Either that or move both the front and shackle mounts. Worst case, if I keep the 63s, it's not going to be a game changer.
 

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Thanks for the heads up on the Chevy springs. I didn't realize the difference in center pin location between 56s & 63s. The 63s are 32" from the hard mount to the center pin but the 56s are only 26". I'll have to do some digging; I need a leaf that's 32" from the hard mount to the center pin but shorter from the center pin to the shackle end.
Either that or move both the front and shackle mounts. Worst case, if I keep the 63s, it's not going to be a game changer.
flip a 56" around.....
 

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I Run 52” Chevy springs and added a leaf from another pack. Decent flax and doesn’t hang up like 63’s. I also like the 56” springs too.

If you don’t drive it the Toyota axles will be fine. Quite a few years ago a buddy did a v8 swap in his truck with Toyota axles. After all they’re tough. Backed out of his driveway got on it and the pinion broke and landed on his porch. And he didn’t have sticky’s. I’ll be watching.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
It's been a busy week; we started the cage last weekend and got the sliders done along with one of the A-B hoops. We hoped to get more but the shop's old single stage compressor couldn't keep up so bending with the air over hydro setup went really slowly. We got a ton done last night though;
-Assembled the drive train: LM7 5.3L -> Advance Adapters 712560V bell housing kit -> W56 -> Doubler
-Set the drive train;
-Motor mounts w/WFO HD bushings
-Narrowed the Budbuilt to fit the dropped frame rails, giving me a most flat belly. We drilled through the new frame rails, into the Budbuilt, and captured it with 4x 1/2" G8 bolts.
-Trimmed the tunnel to fit the trans and doubler
-Trimmed and braced the horse shoe collar cross member
-Added cross bracing to the sliders.
 

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