Just ordered ORD's Magnum, their triple shifters, new shift rails for the 205, and a 32 spline front output. ORD's owner, Stephen Watson, has been super cool and we've talked a good amount about mounting the new drive train, upgrading the front output, shifters, shift rails, drive shafts, etc. According to some quick math, the new combo may be within 1" - 2" of the W56 and doubler. Once I know what I'm doing drive shaft wise, I'll either switch both drive shafts over to 1410 CVs or get a pair of WFO's 32 spline Toyota pattern flanges. I sold some parts and the '87 Turbo truck to help pay for this madness and will hopefully sell the doubler soon too. Now it's time to start saving my pennies for a TH400.
I don't have much to report on the '45 other than receiving two of WFO's 32 spline x Toyota pattern flanges for the NP205. They're awesomely beefy. I'll tear into the '45 once we're further along with my buddy Carl's truck. I'm headed to Rausch this weekend for the Hard Rock Crawler's annual Turkey Run. We're taking Brandon's YJ with the new trans and torque convertor.
It's hard to believe I finished rehabbing the Buterface 4Runner four years ago for Turkey Run 2014. Seems like I have thing for building for months on end then breaking within a day or two.
It would have been awesome to take the '45 to Turkey Run 2018 but that's just the way it goes sometimes. Oh well...there's always next year.
I've got a few things going on with the 45 and would to get some feed back on what I'm thinking.
-Engine/TransT/T-Case isn't an issue; Week of 11/26, I'm going to have the TH400 built and will start mocking up the TH400, Magnum, and 205 with an empty TH400 case we have around. I imagine having to cut the floor to fit everything but we'll see.
-Week of 11/26, I'm going to start shaving an '01 14 bolt housing I have laying around to swap into the rear.
-Let's talk suspension. I W'd the OME leafs up front already and the rears were trashed pretty good going into the build this time last year. The front wraps pretty bad and there's not much I can do about it without installing a front traction bar. Because of that, I'd rather spend the $$ and time linking the front. Because I'm swapping in the 14 bolt, I'm thinking about linking the rear too.
-Keep in mind I have a set of new Ballistic Fab bushing joints and Ruff Stuff Heims to 4 link both ends - enough parts for 10 links total including 2" x .25" DOM.
-I don't want to go with air shocks, coil overs are not in the budget, so I'm thinking about going with off the shelf Jeep (TJ/JK/WJ/ZJ) front coils due to availability in a ton of different lengths & rates, cost, and packaging. I'm thinking front coils in the front and rear since the OD of the coil is way less than the beehive style rear coils. I've seen spring rates from 160 - 260 lb-in.
-With that said, I think ~200lb-in coils will work well in the rear but I'm not sure about the front so I'm looking at different options this morning. What do you all think?
-I dry fit a gutted TH400 case over the weekend and it looks like it's going to fit great without having to cut the firewall or tunnel which is a huge relief. The 205 may be another story but I'll find out this weekend.
-Turns out a TH400 reverse pattern manual valve body with engine braking in all three forward gears is really uncommon in the aftermarket. ATI, Hughes, & TCI's RMVBs w/engine braking only have engine braking in two gears; either 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 which is no good.
-The few TH400 reverse pattern manual valve body with engine braking in all three forward gears I've found are manufactured by Rancho Drive Train Engineering (RDE) in Temecula, California and Automatic Transmission Design (ATD) in Germantown, WI. The RDE unit is $800 and comes highly recommended by Stephen Watson - Off Road Design. The ATD unit is about $550 is highly recommended by Goat Built Drew.
-At this point, I'm thinking about getting the ATD valve body and having the trans built locally.
ATD's FRMVB is on the way along with a billet drum and kevlar backed intermediate band. Once I receive everything later this week, I'll drop it off my transmission guy then have a freshened up trans hopefully within a week or so.
Do you wish you listened to the people that said the Toyota drivetrain wouldn't hold in the first place now? I mean would it have put your build behind that much if you tossed it from the start for the rest of the GM drivetrain?
I know I weighed it out before I pulled the trigger on some of my parts. Air bumps added a pile of time to building on mine and the cost took a hit out of my budget but in the end I'm happy I did it then and not later. Taking apart a fresh build to rework stuff always sucks. BTW I'm kind of scared my trans is going to explode behind my 3rz with my driving:evil:
I don’t regret how things went at all. I tend to march to the beat of my own drum which makes me a better drummer. The experience including lessons learned from personally finding the limits of parts is incredibly valuable to me. What doesn’t work for you may work for me and vice-versa. I’m confident that a large portion of opinions given on the internet are based on here-say, not actual experience so I honestly don’t listen to a lot of it. I’m stubborn and not scared to fail or say I’m wrong so for me, there’s not a whole lot to lose and everything to gain through experiences like this.
Playing devil’s advocate to myself; common sense would tell you that putting a light duty transfer class behind a V8 isn’t going to end well. And it didn’t. I had a feeling it was going to happen eventually but hey - so what, right?
Did I mention that I broke the output shaft in the t-case and think the trans might be fine? Eric, for you specifically - I think your trans will be fine but whatever you’re running down stream of it might be in for a ride.
I thought you said the trans gave up, I'm not surprised the output broke. My T-case has gears in a from a vendor long gone and a output from another vendor long gone. I'm still suspect of what will happen once I boost it:evil:
I originally thought it was the trans since clutch in or out didn't make a difference with shifting the trans and I had zero forward or reverse. I've since sold the doubler and am going through it for the buyer so I'll have a better idea once I have the rear case apart. FWIW, the front case and internals look great. Also, I dropped off the TH400 and the ATD valve body to my trans guy this morning :bounce2:
Catching up here after a bit of a hiatus. The new drivetrain is awesome and am super stoked to wheel is 2020.
-GM TH400 rebuilt with ATD reverse manual valve body, billet drum and kevlar backed intermediate band. Stock filter & pan for now.
-Stock replacement torque convertor for a K20/K30, stall 1800 - 2200
-ORD Magnum for a GM NP205. Adapted to the TH400 w/an Advance Adapters 1" thick aluminum adapter.
-GM NP205, Figure 8 case. Synchronized front output swapped for 32 spline ORD front ouput, mod'd shift rails, & twin stick. Torn down, cleaned up w/all new new seals. I tapped the holes in case normally caped w/rubber plugs 1/8"NPT. Made a plug for a speedo hole from a few factory parts. Also made a PTO cover w/1" fill.
-Magnum vented into the 205, 205 vented to chassis rear, siamesed with fuel cell vent.
-WFO Toyota - 32 spline NP205 output flanges
-JB Fab triple shifters
-Fan powered cooler stuffed between the rear seat & battery along with a finned cooler below the rear floor panel. Wired to a switch in master switch box. 8AN trans lines.
-Installed a trans temp & fuel pressure combo gauge in the dash.
-Trans and Magnum bolted to a shared mount on ORD supplied bushings.
-Mounted to frame on 1.75" x 0.12" DOM cross member, bushings, and tabs.
-Skid plate from Barnes, 3" drop for a YJ which fits the taper of the frame great.
Clearancing the TH400 case to clear the Advance Adapter hardware. There's no mention of this in the instructions for the adatper or Magnum.
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