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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone running FJ80 axles? I picked up a set of axles from a 94 FZJ80 for $350 today. Search doesn’t turn up much. I’m not looking forward to cutting all those brackets off.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You are the first ever.
Search only goes back 3 pages. It’s fucking garbage. Half the time it doesn’t even work. I do not plan on changing out knuckles. Steering will most likely be home brew with heim joints or the factory tie rod ends. I got the front axle for $50. The studs for the passenger side steering arm were sheared. They thought the axle was garbage.
 

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I have an FZJ80 and a 1st gen 4runner. The only problem I see with the front axle is having to find high steer knuckles. They seem to be going for around $1000 which is kind of pricey IMO. At that point you might as well buy an afrermarket housing and transfer all your mini truck stuff over. The Birf is bigger, but you still have the 8" ring gear.

The rear is a strong and runs the 9.5" ring gear, but you end up giving up some ground clearance. Also, it doesnt have a centered 3rd member its offset slightly to one side. That may cause it to interfere with the gas tank. Some people also say it may cause vibration issues due to being offset. Lastly, i think some 94s used a semifloat rear instead of a full float. If you have the semi float, I wouldnt waste the effort to build it out. Also, if you have the elocker rear axle make sure you machine out the splines so they dont teist and get stuck.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-factory-locked-axle-shaft-mod.878216/#post-9912943


The extra width is nice though and its cool to do something a but different.

Good luck with the build.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have an FZJ80 and a 1st gen 4runner. The only problem I see with the front axle is having to find high steer knuckles. They seem to be going for around $1000 which is kind of pricey IMO. At that point you might as well buy an afrermarket housing and transfer all your mini truck stuff over. The Birf is bigger, but you still have the 8" ring gear.

The rear is a strong and runs the 9.5" ring gear, but you end up giving up some ground clearance. Also, it doesnt have a centered 3rd member its offset slightly to one side. That may cause it to interfere with the gas tank. Some people also say it may cause vibration issues due to being offset. Lastly, i think some 94s used a semifloat rear instead of a full float. If you have the semi float, I wouldnt waste the effort to build it out. Also, if you have the elocker rear axle make sure you machine out the splines so they dont teist and get stuck.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-factory-locked-axle-shaft-mod.878216/#post-9912943


The extra width is nice though and its cool to do something a but different.

Good luck with the build.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Rear is full float. Non elocker.
 

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The Birf is bigger, but you still have the 8" ring gear.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
It is an 8" still, but it is a high pinion which is a step up in strength vs. the mini truck 8".

For the money you have invested I'd run them. I don't think they would benefit someone enough to dump a shit ton of cash on a set. I know that axles are the next step once I get my truck back up and running. Looking at prices, I think it is almost as cheap to build a 609 using an aftermarket housing and early SD 50 or 60 knuckles vs. trying to find an 80 series axle cheap or a Chevy 60.
 

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It is an 8" still, but it is a high pinion which is a step up in strength vs. the mini truck 8".

For the money you have invested I'd run them. I don't think they would benefit someone enough to dump a shit ton of cash on a set. I know that axles are the next step once I get my truck back up and running. Looking at prices, I think it is almost as cheap to build a 609 using an aftermarket housing and early SD 50 or 60 knuckles vs. trying to find an 80 series axle cheap or a Chevy 60.
It’s only cheap to build a 609 if you don’t upgrade anything. At that point why bother. Low pinion and 30 spline, welded diff. :barf: Might as well stick with yota axles.

Also not doing hi steer on 80 axles? Still having the tie rod on the back? Running drive flange or selectable hubs? The square housing makes it fun to run leafs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
How the fuck can you say it works fine? All the pics and blurred behind a paywall. That company ruined countless threads. Fine...ffs
If you squint hard enough the picture becomes clear. :flipoff2: I got the rear axle taken apart today. Pretty sure is I blew up a vertebra or two putting that fucking axle on jack stands. I should have stayed with 8” shit. :laughing: What do you guys use for picture hosting?
 

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If you squint hard enough the picture becomes clear. :flipoff2: I got the rear axle taken apart today. Pretty sure is I blew up a vertebra or two putting that fucking axle on jack stands. I should have stayed with 8” shit. :laughing: What do you guys use for picture hosting?
It’s is 8” still:laughing: I have the same front diff in my mini axle. Been there since 01.

Pic hosting is postimmage.org it was recommended from someone here and it has been very easy to use.
 

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