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hey guys i was wondering exactly what yall are doing to raise the t-case up in the frame?? are you lifting the motor mounts and everything??
 

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I used a marlin rotated adapter then tilted the trans case and Motor mounts to get a flat belly prior to welding in.
I would probably tilt more and not use the rotated adapter next time. Tilting makes the passenger seat install a pain. The rotated adapter made it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the advice. i have been thinking of moving my motor back 6 to 8 inches does this seem to balance everything better. get a better center of gravity??
 

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I have an auto with the Inchworm clockable adapter. I remounted the enigne and trans at the same time using big spring eye style bushings setup.

If you move the engine back 8" you'll still be nose heavy just not quite as bad but you'll be more likely to have rear driveline issues. I'm fairly certain our engine is 7" back from stock and we still have some issues with the rear driveline being short/steep.
 

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If you move the engine back 8" you'll still be nose heavy just not quite as bad but you'll be more likely to have rear driveline issues. I'm fairly certain our engine is 7" back from stock and we still have some issues with the rear driveline being short/steep.
X2
except I went the full 8". The rear driveshaft is steep but no problems so far.
On certified CAT scales my rear weighs about 200lbs more than the front. Not bad.
 

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X2
except I went the full 8". The rear driveshaft is steep but no problems so far.
On certified CAT scales my rear weighs about 200lbs more than the front. Not bad.
:eek: Odd. We're 8" back and the rear is 500 lighter! Plus our front axle is pretty forward as well (should make that worse) Same as yo, cert cat scales used. This was weighed dry, no water in the tires, and 1/2 tank of fuel.

As to an answer for the original questions. 8" back, dual cases, w56 trans. Motor down 1", powertrain slopes up to the tcases, non clocked Marlin adapter.
 

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:eek: Odd. We're 8" back and the rear is 500 lighter! Plus our front axle is pretty forward as well (should make that worse) Same as yo, cert cat scales used. This was weighed dry, no water in the tires, and 1/2 tank of fuel.

As to an answer for the original questions. 8" back, dual cases, w56 trans. Motor down 1", powertrain slopes up to the tcases, non clocked Marlin adapter.
Interesting. I wonder how accurate these scales are considering they are designed to weigh a 60' tractor trailer?
 

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Motor close to stock height. 8" back. Slops up towards tcases. Marlin standard doubler adapter. Flat belly with about ~1/2" to spare between skid and case. I run the L52HD case so my rear driveline it at a great angle. Using FROR tcase mount plate.
 

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Interesting. I wonder how accurate these scales are considering they are designed to weigh a 60' tractor trailer?
And supposed to be most accurate ~80k. dont know. The scale we used had 4 or 5 different indiviual scales, and we stradled the seam between 2 to get front/back weights. Jived pretty close with a cheapy way of doing individual tire weights too though, so I think it was at least close. :shaking:
 

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:eek: Odd. We're 8" back and the rear is 500 lighter! Plus our front axle is pretty forward as well (should make that worse) Same as yo, cert cat scales used. This was weighed dry, no water in the tires, and 1/2 tank of fuel.

You're as bare bones behind the front seats as any FToy I've seen, and your fuel tank sits farther back than most peoples' propane tanks (with the 2-seater chassis built as only a 2-seater)

Wes, 2 seats or 4?
 

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What else to put back there beside fuel and battery? Only other things I can think are extras: cooler, spares, spare tire, tools, bottle.
 

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And supposed to be most accurate ~80k. dont know. The scale we used had 4 or 5 different indiviual scales, and we stradled the seam between 2 to get front/back weights. Jived pretty close with a cheapy way of doing individual tire weights too though, so I think it was at least close. :shaking:
same story. Multiple plates when I went. I straddled two to check weight. I went as far as making sure the car was centered over the plate dividing line.
 

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I used a marlin rotated adapter then tilted the trans case and Motor mounts to get a flat belly prior to welding in.
I would probably tilt more and not use the rotated adapter next time. Tilting makes the passenger seat install a pain. The rotated adapter made it worse.
If you have a really flat belly, how does a rotated adapter make it worse? The front output is pretty much the same size whether it's in the stock configuration or rotated up 10º, and rotating keeps the rest of the t-case lower...



....or do you flat belly the rest of the tranny and t-case and let the front output alone hang down a bit more? :confused:



I definitely see how much the front output gets in the way of the pass. seat.

For a comp-legal FToy, are we required to mount both seats the same height/angle (same as Stock Mod), or would it be OK to mount the pass seat a bit higher???
 

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If you have a really flat belly, how does a rotated adapter make it worse? The front output is pretty much the same size whether it's in the stock configuration or rotated up 10º, and rotating keeps the rest of the t-case lower...



....or do you flat belly the rest of the tranny and t-case and let the front output alone hang down a bit more? :confused:



I definitely see how much the front output gets in the way of the pass. seat.

For a comp-legal FToy, are we required to mount both seats the same height/angle (same as Stock Mod), or would it be OK to mount the pass seat a bit higher???
Think ROTATIONAL not vertical. The front output goes out to the side farther, along with that section of the case. The vertical x-section under the seat is taller with 10 degree than stock non clocked. While that wont matter for most folks, it would have required our passenger seat to be up higher, since now it rides on the case.
 

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worked in mine with the rotated adapter since my chassis sits above the frame, It gives me a bit more room to raise the seat up. I had to tilt it back at and angle to clear the output and make it sit a little lower
 

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worked in mine with the rotated adapter since my chassis sits above the frame, It gives me a bit more room to raise the seat up. I had to tilt it back at and angle to clear the output and make it sit a little lower
Mine is 2 inches above the frame and have the clocked adaptor too, I did have to cut out some of the seat frame and rebuild it to go around the front output and make the seats sit even. Its not completely a flat belly, about 3/4 of an inch hangs down.
 
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