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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Had this going on a local site, but could use more input as well so why not. All work I plan on doing myself. Also, I would like to make a note that I know my limitations when it comes to welding. I don't have good fancy equipment, but I am fairly content with myself that I can run a OKAY bead and get good penetration, all welding that is too thick for my MIG will be done by my ARC welder (220V). I welded the spring hangers because I was able to get a strong enough penetration. Like I said, I plan on doing ALL WORK MYSELF, but I will not build a un-safe Jeep for my old man to drive in. Hopefully by the end of this build I will have better equipment and be that much better at welding. So, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CRITISIZE MY WELDS AND IDEAS, I know there is a wealth of knowledge on here from very experienced people, so speak up!

Now..... On to the build!! Enjoy, and comment!

EDIT: Okay, the Jeep is no longer a '47 CJ2-a, I bought a whole MB tub, grill, fenders, etc. It's now a 1944 Willys MB! :D Needs work, but hey, it's an MB who cares!
It a '47 CJ2-a, bought it and am doing a project with it. Started dis-assembling the jeep (the little that WAS assembled) and found some bondo'ed over rust in the floor boards and Trans tunnel. Overall the Jeep is pretty good for 63 years old. The frame was started, but never finsihed. Has a few big cracks that were welded up and then they decided to box it in. My plan as of now looks like this....

(This was the plan when I started, it changed, update below)
400 SBC bored .30 over, performer intake and carb - Should be around 340-360HP
T-18/D20 or TH350-D300. Don't know yet.
D44 rear (which came with the jeep, perches aren't on though)
D30 front (came with the jeep, may end up buying a scout D44 and cutting it down)
might keep the cage it came with or make a cage that covers the rear as well (most likely stick what it came with)
33" Boggers, eventually 35x16 Boggers
I think I'll run some tube and do a grill hoop and follow the fenders down and tie it into the frame
Desert camo paint

- What I actually came too (changes fro mthe original plan)
Rebuilt TH350/D300 combo with 4:1 lomax gears
Custom D44's
Rear- Chromo 35 splines shafts, ARB, 11" drums, 4:88 gears
Front - Chromo 30 spline/19 spline shafts, chevy housing cut down, 4:88 gears, ARB, Mile marker hubs
Military (original paint for the 1944 willys MB) Olive Drab paint
35x15.5-15 Swamper TSL SX
Custom cage
Grill hoop will likely come.

AND THE FINAL PLAN---
Well things always change in these builds. You start out thinking "great project, keep it cheap and have a little beater willys." That was my train of thought. Does it ever end up this way though? Never, well at least that seems to be the typical case. This went from a cheap project to a high horsepower, extended willys. It will be great fun, super stable and last for all the wheeling trips it needs to. Great multi-purpose rig now with a sensible wheelbase. A short little willys is cool, looks cool, they are just.... cool. But they are not logical, they don't perform well on anything but riverbeds with boulders littering it. I came to realize this though tons and tons of research.
Here are the final specifications of the Willys. Feel free to ask any questions, I have talked to so many people now who have built these and have gone through every planning stage you can ever imagine on this thing.
Engine: 2002 Corvette LS1, custom headers, Turn key harness W/ O2 sensors. Ron Davis Radiator.
Transmission: TH350 with STAK adapter. Rebuilt, trans-pro shift kit.
T-case: Lomax 4:1, twin stick.
The body is mounted via. cage. All tied into frame. Simply sandwiched inbetween.
Wheelbase- 90"
Tires: 37x14.50-15LT Maxxis Creepy Crawlers on 15x10 Daytona Allied Beadlocks
Axles stayed the same as mentioned.

PLEASE feel free to ask questions. I am more than open to help anyone who is building one of these.


The Jeep will be a total frame off. Engine should be pulled by this sunday (I hope, don't quote me:flipoff2:) and shortly after of course the tub and so on. Plan on making the Jeep very military, and restore it to a solid -Legal- wheeler. Here's some pics so you get the general idea:















 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)



^^ Yeah, that's a piece of wood in the cross brace running along the tub.:nuke:




^^^ Bondo over rust.



Anybody know if CJ2-a's were ever military issue? This jeep has olive drab all over the frame/body. That or it came off the lot with olive drab because it's the first layer of paint on the jeep.
 

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I'm building the same thing practically. 48 CJ2a with 305 SBC, TH350, Dana 300, D30 front, D44 rear. The drive train is long with this combo in a very short rig. I am stretching mine out to 88-91 inch wheel base to accomodate. The TH350 is 23-25 inches long (depending on who's t-case adaptor you use) and the original t90+bellhousing is 16.125 inches long. If you haven't found a D300 yet, look for a 1980 jeep D300 like I did. It is the exact length as the original D18.

Good luck, we are in about the same stage of the build...race ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Yeah that's what I'm thinking is I might want to just go with a d44 while we got it apart before I dump $$$ on an ARB and gears for the D30.

Haven't decided for sure if we'll be going to the TH350, its my dads Jeep that I'm building for him, so it's up too him. What's nice right now is that the whole drivetrain bolts together (the T-18 has a whole new bellhousing adapting it). I have to measure the perches, but I think with a Scout D44 I will need to cut 6" on one the long side to fit it, which would put me at 53" ish WMS. I just need it to match the rear D44, might go Waggy D44 and cut it.

Okay, race is on, I'm estimating this summer or next.:laughing:
 

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Anybody know if CJ2-a's were ever military issue? This jeep has olive drab all over the frame/body. That or it came off the lot with olive drab because it's the first layer of paint on the jeep.
Most likely it's just weathered Pasture Green which is the color of most of the CJ2a's I've seen and owned. The wood in the hat channel is stock ;)
 

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Anybody know if CJ2-a's were ever military issue? This jeep has olive drab all over the frame/body. That or it came off the lot with olive drab because it's the first layer of paint on the jeep.
CJ means civilian Jeep so no, they weren't military issue. That tailgate doesn't look to be original since it isn't stamped with "Willys" on the bumpout in the middle. Your first layer of OD really says nothing as it could have been completely stripped to bare metal at somepoint in the last 62 years.

The piece of wood in the support channel is there from the factory.
 

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Yeah that's what I'm thinking is I might want to just go with a d44 while we got it apart before I dump $$$ on an ARB and gears for the D30.

Haven't decided for sure if we'll be going to the TH350, its my dads Jeep that I'm building for him, so it's up too him. What's nice right now is that the whole drivetrain bolts together (the T-18 has a whole new bellhousing adapting it). I have to measure the perches, but I think with a Scout D44 I will need to cut 6" on one the long side to fit it, which would put me at 53" ish WMS. I just need it to match the rear D44, might go Waggy D44 and cut it.

Okay, race is on, I'm estimating this summer or next.:laughing:
D44 front I think is a good idea too...I'm thinking of cutting down a full size axle myself. As for the TH350, I hear automatic is nice (2 pedals and 2 feet vs. the extra pedal). Especially if its for your old man. Plus you get some bonus gear ratio having a torque converter. Just wanted to give you a heads up on the length thing.

Always up for a race...my goal is next summer, got a trip to Colorado planned for late July.:smokin: I'll keep watching and will start a build thread soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
CJ means civilian Jeep so no, they weren't military issue. That tailgate doesn't look to be original since it isn't stamped with "Willys" on the bumpout in the middle. Your first layer of OD really says nothing as it could have been completely stripped to bare metal at somepoint in the last 62 years.

The piece of wood in the support channel is there from the factory.
Okay cool thanks for the input there. Read somewhere that some were used in the war but obviously not true.:p And seems kind of stupid to put a piece of wood in the support channel from the factory? Why was this? Seems like your asking for it to rust out.

I am going to probably cut out that floor board on the drive side, and the passenger side and put new ones in. rear board looks good, wheel wells need some work, and when I clean the tub I probably won't blast the outside just because I know there is a lot of bondo work done that I don't want to have to do again. And yeah it may make it easier to wheel with a auto, and probably a little less likely to break something. I would want to find a D300 with a 4:1 kit in it though to give the jeep some good gearing (axles will probably be 4:88).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I thought it was more solid than it is! :D

going to pick up a MB tub today that needs new floor boards, should set me on track.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
MB tub!

Got my new MB tub, well as new as they get. Hardly ANY bondo!:eek: For a hundred bucks it worth my time to fix the rusted spots. Need a new floor board, and some channels that go along the frame, but overall I would say damn nice for a WWII jeep! Build is getting more and more "hardcore" I guess you can say, plans now are fix both MB and CJ2-a tub, probably use the Mb tub, run some scout axles that were intended for my CJ.

A LOT OF WORK I'm telling you is ahead of me, I should be a damn pro at body work and paint after this!:laughing: Going to make some horses to put the tubs up on and a makeshift paint booth this week.

Here's my MB tub, sad thing was coming home with it, it fell off the wheel wells of my truck and dented the passenger side, and ripped apart the step, oh well, no point crying over spilled milk, lesson learned!:)





 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thats a good lookin tub, I think classic enterprises makes oem replacement floor boards and supports or you can just get some sheet metal:D anyway cool build.
Right on, thanks. I'll take a look at them. A place called Northwest Military? Has a lot of that stuff too for cheap.

EDIT: Also, was going to pull the engine today but don't see any good hoisting points, any advice on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Checked them out, looks like fair prices. Thanks for the link Rooney.
 

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Oh !....I think my MB will have a brother :D:D....
Same history here...started with a CJ2A and ended with an MB..
That tub looks really good....good luck with your project ;)
 

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Nice! I love the cage that was in it, looks tight! The OD paint could signal something else, such as a military frame etc but it could have been painted at some time in it's past. I don't see tool indentations in the tub it had, so it's not a military tub. The tailgate though is from an M38. They weren't stamped and had the ribbing/supporting for a spare time and gerry can. Can't wait to see how it turns out
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nice! I love the cage that was in it, looks tight! The OD paint could signal something else, such as a military frame etc but it could have been painted at some time in it's past. I don't see tool indentations in the tub it had, so it's not a military tub. The tailgate though is from an M38. They weren't stamped and had the ribbing/supporting for a spare time and gerry can. Can't wait to see how it turns out
Awesome man thanks for the info!:D Don't think I'll be using the CJ2-a tub, I got a soft spot for the MB. And thats cool about the tailgate, I would have never guessed.

Got a lot of things ot knock out this weekend, which is dis-manteling the rest of the Jeep.
 
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